Tokio SX Build by EnvyAstro Ivan Rodriguez
FlightClub Tokio SX | EnvyAstro
Post by EnvyAstro Ivan Rodriguez
Hope you guys are as excited as I am with the new Tokio Stretched X! I have been flying the prototype version for about 2 months now and I can say that I am in love with this frame. I have yet to break a frame. You may be wondering, what’s the difference as benefits between the Tokio X (True X) and the Tokio SX (Stretched X) . The SX was made for the hardcore racer who is willing to step it up to the next level and looking to have much easier tuning sessions.
Why Stretch X?
An advantage to having a SX frame vs a true X configuration is that it gives you more stability during forwards flight on the pitch axis. Since the front and back motors are further apart from each other it also allows cleaner air to flow, which results in less prop wash. By having less prop wash to worry about, it makes those frustrating tuning sessions much quicker and easier to accomplish that “perfect” tune.
The physics behind the SX also are there to back it up. The center of the stack on a quad is usually like a “fulcrum”( the point which a lever rest or is supported and on which it pivots). In his case the center stack is your fulcrum since this is where your quadcopter pivots/turns on its axis.
The best example I can give everyone would be to imagine a person walking on a tightrope. People that walk on tight ropes have all their weight on the rope and that’s their center of gravity (CG), they use a long pole to balance on the tight rope. In other wards their body is the stack on the quadcopter and the end of the pole are the motors which are providing a better balance on the pitch axis around the CG of the quad. By having a longer pitch and shorter roll axis, it allows the quad to handle so well on corners and during forward flight as the motors do not have to work as hard.
Toki SX inherits all the great features of the Tokio X
- Butter mount
- Chamfered Edges
- Flat bottom
- Easy access to FC & Vtx
- Easy 2 screw removable canopy
- Camera protection
- Motor protection
- Antenna out of the way of props
- LIFETIME WARRANTY
For those curious about which electronics I like running here is a list of what I have on my Tokio X & SX
- Tokio SX or Tokio X
- TMotor F40 Pro 2600kv or 2400kv
- FrSky R-XSR
- 4in1 Cicada 35a
- Kiss FC
- FOXEER Arrow v3
- TBS Unify HV Race VTX
- TBS Triumph
- Gemfan 5152S or Rk5040 props
- FlightClub 4s 1500mAh Graphene Batteries
These electronics are my favorites, not only have they been reliable for me but they have proven to work very well together. The Tmotor Pros are by far one of the most powerful/durable motors I have flown, especially paired up with one of the 2 props listed above. The kiss FC has been very reliable for me for the past year that I have been flying it. Paired with the Cicada or Aikon 4 in 1 running Dshot600 feels absolutely buttery! The TBS Unify Race edition has been the best vtx up to date for me, reasons such as switchable 25mw and 200mw output powers have made it one of my favorites. Not only that but the easy swappable pigtail for different antennas is a great feature to have on race day. The Unify also outputs 5v for your camera. The 5v output from the unify is what I use to power up my camera. One thing I love about the Arrow v3 is the great picture straight out of the box and the VSENS wire, which solders onto he power and reads your battery voltage straight onto your screen.
I also gave you guys a few tips that have helped me withstand those hard crashes during a race or a regular day of flying. Things you’ll need for the tips include…
I came up with these things over time when I had issues that I personally experienced while racing/crashing! So I’d definitively recommend you to use these tips on your builds, so you can avoid messing up electronics and then having to work on your quad out on the field.
So this is how everything is hooked up. As you can see by using the Cicada 35A 4in1 ESC, a PDB is not needed because all the ESCs are powered directly from the battery. This makes makes installing ESCs so easy. To use this diagram make sure the Cicada is mounted with the battery cable side up and signal leads connector facing down. If you have it flipped the signal wires will not be connected like the diagram. The signal wires from the Cicada will be connected this way, yellow wire to KISS signal 1, blue 2, orange 3 and green 4.
The KISS fc will be powered directly off the battery. There is a small +/- pad right next to the battery pads on the Cicada. You can use this pad to get battery voltage to the KISS and power the VTX. The TBS Unify Pro Race can take power directly from the battery also. The camera will be powered by the voltage out from the VTX. If you are using a Foxeer Arrow V3, to get your battery voltage in the OSD, connect the blue VSEN wire directly to the positive lead of the battery.
With that I hope to see you guys ripping up the track with the all new Tokio SX. Go balls to the wall and don’t be afraid to break equipment, that is honestly the way I got fast in a small amount of time. Also Don’t forget to go check out our YouTube channel “FlightClub” & “EnvyAstro” for more awesome information concerning our products.
DTF Tokio X or SX are available if you don’t want to build. Each custom quad are built and tuned by Ivan EnvyAstro Rodriguez himself.
If you found this post helpful, it would be super cool if you purchased the components from my store or purchase items from my Amazon links. These posts are expensive and take a loooong time to make! The purchases make it possible for me to keep making them. Thanks in advance, I greatly appreciate it 🙂