Acehe does it again. Just like their 4s packs, the Acehe 6s lipo battery do not disappoint.

Acehe 6s LiPo Battery Specifications

Acehe 6s 75c 1080mAh

• $42.99
• 65x55x30mm
• 193g

Acehe 6s 75c 1300mAh

• $44.99
• 78x34x49mm
• 243g

Parts used in this post

The test quad for this battery test is the 6s/long range PROton

• FlightClub PROton Skeleton
• TBS Crossfire Nano RX
• TBS Crossfire Micro TX
• Immortal T Antenna
• PROton Immortal-T Mount
• Aikon AK32 35A ESC
• Helio Spring Flight Controller
• Foxeer Arrow PRO
• TBS Unify v3 25-800mw VTX
• Lumenier AXii Stubby
• PROton GoPro Session Mount
• GoPro Session
• HQ Props 5x5x3 vs1

The only thing I change were the motors. Since there will be torture tests, I wanted to use a motor that would stress the batteries to the max. The Tmotor F60II 1750kv motors are monsters up for the task.

Acehe 6s LiPo Battery Performance

We flew four 6s LiPo batteries (Acehe 1080mAh, Acehe 1300mAh, CNHL 1000mAh, Tattu Rline 1300mAh) the day we tested the Acehe 6s fpv batteries. The Acehe 6s 1300mAh battery is the most powerful battery I’ve ever flown.

We did a blind test where I put on my goggles and didn’t know which of the two Acehe I was flying. I thought I could tell the difference because of the weight but I was wrong.

The weight difference between the 1080mAh and 1300mAh is 50g. That’s a lot of weight on a quad. In the blind test, the first battery I flew was the 1300mAh. I thought it was the 1080mAh because the throttle response and power was so fast. The power of the 1300mAh made up for the extra weight and the quad actually felt lighter.

On the 1080mAh, I thought it felt heavier probably because it didn’t have quite the power and responsiveness of the 1300mAh.

Keep in mind on the test we were free flying in a park without gates. We could punch the throttle as much as we wanted without need for much precision. Perhaps if we were flying with gates, the weight difference would be more evident.

On Ivan’s test the Acehe 1080mAh only flew for about 1:20min and got slightly puffy. After the battery cooled down the puffiness went away and the battery looked normal. Unlike the CNHL that we flew, it did puff slightly after it’s flight and stayed puffed after it cooled down.

Seems like the 1080mAh are made for a lighter 6s setup with less monstrous motors. The Tmotor F60 ProII 1750 at 34g each are very powerful and power hungry motors. It all depends on how hard you fly. I was able to fly the 1080mAh just fine.

One thing we did notice on the smaller capacity 6s packs like the CNHL 1000mAh and the Acehe 1080mAh is that once they get close to low battery (around 3.4v /cell, 20.4v on a 6s) the voltage would plummet quickly. Once moment you’ll see 19v and a couple seconds later the voltage would drop to 12v.

On the higher capacity packs like the Acehe 1300mAh or Tattu 1300mAh, the packs would stay at the low battery range much longer and have a smoother drop. We could fly the batteries at 20v for 30 seconds plus before the voltage continues to drop.

6s Lipo Battery Hype

Do you really need to move to a 6s lipo battery? The capacity would depend on your setup and flying style. The 1080mAh are for lighter setups and smaller motors. For monster motors and people who can fly on the upper end of the throttle the 1300mAh would be better suited. If you are convinced that 6s setups have an advantage over 4s, the Acehe 6s batteries are the ones to get.

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