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Three Inch Quad Build : FlightClub Phuket

Three Inch Quad Build : FlightClub Phuket

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This three inch quad build the FlightClub Phuket is favorite quad to fly right now.  Being so small, light and tough, it just bounces off stuff and keeps flying.  With turtle mode enabled you may never need to retrieve a quad.

The Phuket is a 140mm slight stretch X canopy quad designed for 3″ props.  Think of it as a baby Tokio.

  • Adjustable camera angle from about 30 – 75 degrees
  • Frame with canopy and hardware, 42g
  • Countersink holes for a completely flat bottom
  • Ultra durable TPU canopy
  • Beastly 3.5mm Hypotenuse cut carbon fiber bottom plate
Tools Used in this build
Build List

A build kit is available for the Phuket.  It will include everything you need to do this build including the cheat sheet, Taranis backup file and BetaFlight backup.

Three Inch Quad Build

three inch quad build

** UPDATE **

In the build video I said to remove the TBS smart audio wire.  Some readers pointed out that you can use the smart audio to change vtx band/channel in the betaflight menu.  To do this all you have to do is connect the white smart audio wire to TX6 then in Ports in betaflight set Peripherals for UART6 to TBS smart audio.  See the ports image below.

The Phuket is designed to be built with a single stack FC/ESC AIO.  I’ll be using the Cicada 30A F4 AIO.  There are other AIO board that can be used like the Asgard 30A AIO, Lumenier Alpha 30a or KISS AIO.  I really like the Cicada AIO cause it has built in 5v to power your camera or vtx, BetaFlight OSD, current sensor, buzzer and LED output.  The Betaflight OSD is awesome cause you can configure your osd to display whatever you want and it will let you tune your pids from the Taranis and osd.  You can change the VTX band/channel from the Betaflight menu.

As you can see from the schematic, using an AIO for this three inch quad build is super simple.  Because the ESCs and FC are all on one board, there’s no need to solder any esc wires or signal wires.  All you need to do is solder on a power cable for the battery, solder the RX, camera and VTX then you’re done!

Three Inch Quad Build

The USB on the board has a charge so put a piece of tape on the frame right below the USB on the back.  This will stop the USB from touching the frame and making magic smoke.

three inch quad buildWhen mounting the motors on the frame make sure none of the screws are touching the windings.  This can cause the motors to overheat and burn out.

Cut the motor wires and solder them on the board.  It doesn’t matter how you solder the wires.  We can reverse any wires in BLHeli later.

three inch quad buildInstall a battery cable.

Cut the camera and VTX harness and solder them on according to the schematic.  The VTX will be powered directly off the battery.  Power for the camera will come from the 5v off the AIO.  The video signal from the camera will go to VI and the signal from the VTX will go to VO.

Use some of the leftover wire from the camera and solder the ground, power and SBUS to the rx input on the Cicada AIO.

three inch quad build

Cut 3/4 of the double sided tape that came with the TBS Unify Race and stick the VTX on the AIO.  With the 1/4 tape left use it to mount the XM+ on the VTX.  Try to mount the XM+ towards the back of the quad.  It’s best to leave a little bit of room under the camera.  That way on hard hits the camera won’t move down and hit the RX or VTX.

three inch quad build

three inch quad build

Taranis and Binding the XM+

For the sake of keeping this build post shorter, I will skip the Taranis setup.  For the full setup you can see my other builds where I show how to set everything up.  Or you can get the full Taranis Program files here.  This will have everything setup for you.

To bind the XM+ to the Taranis, go to page 2/12 and scroll to the BIND.  Hit that and it will start beeping.  Hold down the button on the XM+ while plugging in the battery.  Unplug the battery and exit out of binding.  When you plug back in the XM+ should be green.

best race drone

BetaFlight Configurator

In Chrome, search BetaFlight Configurator and ADD.  Download and install the correct CP210x USB to UART Bridge VCP driver for your computer system if you don’t already have it.

Press the boot button on the Cicada 30A AIO while plugging in the USB.  This will put the AIO into DFU mode and let you flash the fc.  Select OmnibusF4 target and select BetaFlight 3.2.1

Watch the video above to configure the BetaFlight.

three inch quad build

three inch quad build
three inch quad buildthree inch quad build
three inch quad build
three inch quad build
BLHeli Configurator
  1. In the Chrome App store, add the BLHeli Configurator to Chrome.  Since you already downloaded the CP210X and VCP drivers for Betaflight you don’t need to do this again.  It should connect as is.
  2. Open the BLHeli configurator and plug in the USB on the Cicada AIO and battery to quad.
  3. Click Connect at the top right on the configurator.  Then Read Setup on the bottom right.
  4. Flash the ESC to 16.63 DSHOT.
  5. Select the ESCs that need to be reversed, if any.
  6. When you are done with the settings click Write Setup on the bottom.  You will hear a restart chime, done!

three inch quad build

These are my PIDs for the Phuket using a 500mAh pack and GemFan 3052.  You can adjust the rates to your liking.  I like to use a lower rate cause I find it easier to navigate on a track.

Time to Rip!

three inch quad build

three inch quad build

The final build weight is about 158g without props or battery.  I’ve been using a Lumenier 500mAh pack but I think a high C 850mAh pack would be better.  With the 500mAh pack you’ll between 1:30 to 4min depending on how hard you fly.

This three inch quad build, Phuket is easily the most fun quad I have.  It’s an absolute blast to rip around a track or freestyle in a playground.  Give it a try.  I guarantee you’ll have loads of fun flying this little beast!

If you found this post helpful, it would be super cool if you purchased the components from my store or purchase items from my Amazon links.  These posts are expensive and take a loooong time to make so the purchases make it possible for me to keep making them.  Thanks in advance, I greatly appreciate it 🙂

By | 2018-01-06T07:12:29+00:00 October 20th, 2017|News|16 Comments


  1. Eric 10/22/2017 at 4:29 pm - Reply

    Ah! I wish I had seen this coming. Just last month I decided to get a 3″ quad but went with the Codered and a bunch of parts. Your build with the body is sooo much cooler! And easier…

    • Mike Tseng 11/08/2017 at 4:04 pm - Reply

      never too late to switch 🙂

  2. Larry 10/24/2017 at 7:08 am - Reply

    Hey Mike – I wondered what temp you are using to solder everything together on the ciada? I’ve had some awful luck with 4in1’s that buying an AIO seems a bit scary to me. Luckily this is well priced, but all have crapped out on me. I’ve heard that I could soldering with too high of a temp and that the manufacturering of AIOs / 4in1s is actually very delicate. I’m questioning whether the temp on my iron is too high (I run at about 645) but I like this build alot. Kudos once again!

    • Mike Tseng 11/08/2017 at 4:05 pm - Reply

      i use 850 for everything. the ground on the aio is always a little tougher. you just have to add your own solder to get the heat distributed

  3. Ramon 10/26/2017 at 4:05 am - Reply

    Great build guide! You should include wiring smart audio to uart6. That way you can change vtx settings directly from the OSD.

    • Mike Tseng 11/08/2017 at 4:05 pm - Reply

      dude! I just learned this. i will post an update on this. thanks for pointing it out

  4. Kelly Storm 11/02/2017 at 11:20 pm - Reply

    Hi Mike, was wondering a few things if you have a moment? Will you be including the frame protectors in the full kit, is there going to be access to the camera settings through the OSD and will you be able to tune PID’s also within the OSD?

    Also what do you use to secure the rx to the vtx to the AIO and what velcro do you guys use or where do you order it?



    • Mike Tseng 11/08/2017 at 4:15 pm - Reply

      hi kelly, the frame protectors are an option.

      yes with the betaflight osd you can access the PIDs and vtx settings. i’ll post an update on how to change the vtx channel. i use the double sided tape that comes with the tbs unify to secure the rx and vtx. we use the thin industrial strength velcro

  5. Kelly Storm 11/11/2017 at 11:19 pm - Reply

    Hi again, for the smart audio update will you change the cheat sheet for the wire length or give us a length and can you post a picture on this build page of how it will look when it’s soldered up in relation to the vtx and rx?



  6. David Lewis 11/15/2017 at 1:23 pm - Reply

    Mike, is this a 4s or 3S build spec. You don’t say much about the battery in your text on this page. I just ordered a build kit btw. That’s now 4 frames/kits I have got from ya!

  7. Larry 11/20/2017 at 10:07 pm - Reply

    Just got a chance to maiden and fly this yesterday/today. This is a super fun and fast quad as well as a straight forward build. This rips! Flies like a 5” with comparable thrust. I built mine to this spec via the kit and I couldn’t be more pleased. I use 850mah 4s 45c batteries and get a solid 2:30/3 minute aggressive flights. I love this thing and need more lipos so I can spend some serious time. Stock pids are great and I’ve just adjusted my rates. I’ve had a couple run ins with trees and it just keeps going. Also successfully flipped it in turtle mode. That was such a feeling of accomplishment as I didn’t have to go anywhere. Thanks for this tutorial and the kit. I’m sold!

    • Mike Tseng 11/21/2017 at 10:57 am - Reply

      Hi Larry, this thing is a blast right??? Still my favorite frame to fly for fun. Glad you like it! Which props are you flying?

  8. Kelly Storm 11/22/2017 at 10:57 pm - Reply

    Hi Mike, how do I enable the beeper. I can see the light blink on the board but no beep?

    Also, is there anyway to get rid of that “foxeer.com” in the center of the goggles when you plug in the battery?


  9. Eric 01/17/2018 at 12:37 am - Reply

    All right Mike, I made the switch, ordered a Phuket tonight and we’ll see who stays in my hangar after I fly it against my Lumenier CODERED. Honestly, I doubt it will be a fair fight, heck, I went through 3 Lumenier FC boards before I got one that worked! 🙁 Lumenier is a great outfit though and saw me through it. Respect! But seriously, the design of your quads is the indefinable quality. Peeps look at my CODERED and see a mass of wires and exposed components and kind of shrug, cool, y’now. But they see my Tokio X and they are like, wow, what is that? Sweet! The Phuket with the stubby will be another like that. I’ll build it while waiting for your long distance PROton kit (and build) to drop. And salt away some reward points toward that purchase. 2018 is shaping up to be a great year for Flight Club quads. Good to see your frames and bodies on the ReadyMadeRC (RRMC) site too. I wish it was obvious to everyone that sees that how much more info is available on your website. To see how much effort you have put in.
    Pride of ownership baby! I even bought a hat, ah, I’m all in. Banging the drum at the flying field too. Cheers!

    • Mike Tseng 01/17/2018 at 9:36 am - Reply

      After you fly the Phuket, you can use the CODERED parts to build another Phuket. You will love this thing, it’s still my favorite quad to fly for sheer fun.

      I’m putting together the 6″ PROton long range/freestyle build video right now. You’ll love this too! It’s so much fun.

      thanks for all your support Eric!

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