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RaceFlight RevoltOSD Review | Hypetrain or Trainwreck?

RaceFlight RevoltOSD Review


raceflight revoltosdIf another person tell me how much they love RaceFlight I’m going to slap someone.  Just kidding.  So many people have been raving about RaceFlight I had to see for myself.  Does it live up to the hype?  Let’s find out!

First off, this post is from the perspective of someone almost new to RaceFlight.  I tried RaceFlight once over a year ago.  My motors got super hot and it didn’t fly well at all.  That’s when BetaFlight was getting good so I never bothered to fix the RaceFlight setup.  That was the original Revolt Skitzo edition board, they have changed a lot since then.

raceflight revoltosdRaceFlight RevoltOSD Highlights
  • F405 MPU
  • Invensense 20602 Gyro
  • Built in dampening grommets
  • RaceFlight OSD
  • Can be powered directly off the battery up to 6s

See the full specs on the RaceFlight RevoltOSD page

Parts Used in this Build
Installing the RaceFlight RevoltOSD

Paired with the Bolt32, the RevoltOSD was a breeze to install.  Just invert TX1, SBUS to TX1, SmartPort wire to RX3, SmartAudio on TX3, the battery cable, motor wires and plug in the wire harness from the Bolt32 to the RevoltOSD, done.  Normally I don’t like wire harnesses but in this case the fc and 4in1 ESC are designed to work together.  Using the wire harness eliminates the need to power the fc, wire the 4 ESC signal wires, vbat and such.  It’s almost plug and play.  Makes for a super clean build.

raceflight revoltosd

RaceFlight One Configurator

The basic setup was easy.  I flashed the board with a beta firmware v562 using RaceFlight One configurator v560.  You just run the wizard and it’ll set up the basic settings like board orientation, where the esc signal wires are installed, rx setup, radio setup, ESC calibration and motor direction.  The headache was when I tried to setup the SmartAudio for the LUA script.  I messed with this board for like 8 hours before reaching out to Preston Garrison I and III, the creators of RaceFlight.  We couldn’t figure out why the RevoltOSD wasn’t seeing the VTX.  I got tired of messing with it so I went for a flight.  An angry tree branch smacked me out of the air and killed the RevoltOSD.  Good thing that happened because after I swapped it out for a new board the LUA started working.  Turns out the first board I had was bad.  Oh well, it happens.  Sometimes my stubbornness isn’t a good thing, ha.

There are a lot of good things about the RaceFlight One configurator.  The wizards take the need out of figuring out how your board is oriented or which esc signal is connected where.  The wizard figures all that stuff out.  It’s a good software for beginners but for someone who has built a few quads, I prefer the setup in BetaFlight.  In BetaFlight I can set up a quad in 5 min or less including flashing the ESCs and changing motor directions.  I feel like RaceFlight takes three times as long because there is a lot of waiting around for the software to do it’s settings.

I did find a lot of bugs in the configurator.  Just to be fair I was using a beta version of Raceflight One.  Several times while I was setting up the board, I would hit save and would wipe out all the settings I just put in.  Also, there was an issue with reversing one of the motors.  I did the motor wizard several times but no matter what I did, I couldn’t get one of the motors to reverse.  I even tried to do it in the console but still no dice.  I eventually had to do it the old school way and physically flipped two motor wires.

Testing

This initial build will be with 2400kv or 2522kv motors because that’s what I normally fly.  I wanted to use something I’m use to so I can get a feel for the board.  The Bolt32 ESC is capable of 6s.  After this review I’ll swap the motors out for some secret low KV Tmotor prototype motors I just got for some 6s madness.

So, does RaceFlight live up to it’s hype?  As much as I don’t want to admit…hell yes!  Damn this PROton with this RaceFlight setup flies soooo good.  It’s hard to describe.  There is zero slop and the quad does exactly what your sticks tells it to do.  It feels like you are actually flying the quad instead of fighting it.  Even just flying it with one of the presets with zero tuning and carrying a heavy GoPro the quad was super easy to control.  Everything felt so crisp and clean!

Worth the Hype

A RaceFlight setup with the RevoltOSD and Bolt32 ESC is like having a super hot high maintenance girlfriend.  If you can deal with the quirks and bugs in the firmware, the ride is worth all the trouble.  Does this mean I’ll be switching all my quads over to RaceFlight?  Umm…maybe.  The RevoltOSD with the Bolt32 ESC costs about $110 which isn’t cheap.  BetaFlight just released 3.3 with the Kalman filters.  From what I hear that’s the secret sauce that makes RaceFlight so good. Also I wont know for sure until I test out the KISS v2 fc with the Aikon AK32 next week.  But yes, I get it now, the RaceFlight RevoltOSD with the Bolt32 ESC lives up to the hype.  It’s as good as everyone saids it is.  Go give it a shot, I think you’ll like it!

If you found this post helpful, it would be super cool if you purchased the components from my store or purchase items from my Amazon links.  These posts are expensive and take a loooong time to make so the purchases make it possible for me to keep making them.  Thanks in advance, I greatly appreciate it 🙂

By | 2018-03-23T12:51:21+00:00 March 13th, 2018|Review|12 Comments

12 Comments

  1. John Konn 03/13/2018 at 3:49 pm - Reply

    Well present video

  2. Larry 03/13/2018 at 4:28 pm - Reply

    So as soon as this hit my inbox, I definitely cringed a little as I’ve not had the best experience with RF: I bought 2 AIO ESCs and 3 FCs at this point. Unfortunately the AIO ESCs and 2 of the flight controllers didn’t make it and never flew. That definitely shaped my opinion quickly.

    Recently I bought a proton and there was a sale on a skitzo board. I decided to purchase it after a friend (who’s had nothing but success on RF) and I debated over many serious text messages. I decided NOT to use AIO escs, use a PDB, and take some pro recommendations from SamHell (ONLY solder signal wires/grounds to the top, all the rest of wires on bottom (weird right?), ensure to cap all builds either on the back 2 ESCs (or on your AIO), or at the battery lead with a large cap (I use a 35v 1000uf) to reduce noise). Anyhow at first it didn’t fly but after a little tinkering (and a bad frsky rx), I did get it in the air.

    I have to say that on stock pids it felt extremely smooth. There wasn’t a lot of drift, turns felt great (with smoothing on), and dialing up the rates got it to fly like a dream. Of course I didn’t have a lot of faith in RF, so I put some cheap motors on this build (see instagram) that hit some scraggle and the bell popped right off. So I’m back to the bench again but I have to say that I was pretty impressed with the stock PIDs, stick smoothing, and that I FINALLY got a darn RF build to fly for me. After all I’ve spent at least a year complaining.

    PS – I hope ur builds always fly the first try

    • Mike Tseng 03/13/2018 at 4:48 pm - Reply

      i know. rf has been pretty sketchy for me. i’m 1 for 3 but once you get it flying, it flies really well!

  3. rodger 03/14/2018 at 5:07 am - Reply

    might have been a good idea to use a stable build, especially if your doing a review. i’ve ran 7 boards on 5 different spec’d quads not had a problem with the gear. i have damaged 2 boards in hard crashes but this is where the replacement plan comes into play where you can purchase replacements at a reduced price.

  4. Jim D 03/20/2018 at 8:43 pm - Reply

    I built my PROton with the same specs (except I used a Crossfire Nano rx), but when I plugged in the battery (using a smoke stopper) I got a bit of smoke coming from the center of the RevoltOSD. I was extremely careful with setting up the wiring, so I’m not sure what could be wrong. I double checked everything with a multimeter and can’t find the issue. Could it possible that the Revolt is bad?

    BTW, Isn’t the smoke stopper supposed to… prevent smoke??

    Thanks for any ideas you may have.

    • Mike Tseng 03/21/2018 at 5:56 am - Reply

      i keep telling people to don’t use the “smoke stopper”. These gadgets still allow currents to flow so shorts can happen. A simple multimeter on the continuity setting will tell you if you have any shorts big or small.

      I can’t tell you what happened to the board. Anything could have caused that short. But who knows, the first board I had was bad so it’s possible that board was jacked up already. Doesn’t look like you got the board from me. Maybe that reseller can warranty the board.

      • James D 03/27/2018 at 6:15 am - Reply

        I did buy the Bolt32 from you and I also wanted to get the FC from you too but you were out. I got the FC from Justin at FlyRCNow – he’s trying to get me some attention from Adriel at RF to possibly replace the board. I was extremely meticulous following your build video (which is awesome btw) so I don’t see how it can be anything but a defect. Given the track record of these boards, I was really hoping to get a faster resolution to this from RF like you seemed to.

        • Mike Tseng 03/27/2018 at 2:12 pm - Reply

          yeah it’s possible. my first board had issues which cause me to was 8 hours of my life. hope they get it resolved quickly. it’s currently my best flying PROton!

          • James DiEdwardo 03/27/2018 at 6:53 pm

            Adriel from RF told me their defect percentage is 0.001%.

          • Mike Tseng 03/28/2018 at 8:47 am

            1 out of 1,000 boards is bad? hard to believe but at least they have a good replacement plan so it doesn’t matter.

  5. James 03/28/2018 at 9:24 am - Reply

    No, I think .001% is extremely good (that would be 1 out of 100,000). I just find that hard to believe based on forums… but maybe there are other factors.

    • Mike Tseng 03/28/2018 at 10:32 am - Reply

      no comment 🙂

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