OSDoge Setup with working RSSI!
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I’ve been wanting to do a post on the OSDoge setup for about 6 months now but couldn’t figure out how to get the RSSI to work. Hours, days, weeks and months of frustrated hair pulling and cursing…I finally got it to work!
What is OSDoge?
OSDoge is a small stackable circuit board the same size as the Naze32 flight controller. The main function of the OSDoge board is to provide OSD (on screen display). The display is fully customizable to what you want to show. Here are just some of the things you can in your OSD:
- RSSI
- Battery voltage
- Flight time
- Virtual horizon line
- Flight mode
- GPS info such as speed, direction, distance (if you have GPS hooked up)
The best thing about the OSDoge is that it’s stackable. That means it’s the same size as the Naze32 and connects with male/female header pins when it’s stacked. If you are OCD about clean builds like I am you’ll love this board. Not only does it provide OSD it has many other features too.
- OSD
- LC filter for the FPV transmitter – cleans up the signal/power before it goest to your Video transmitter. This will give you a cleaner picture without interference.
- Regulated 5v for the Naze32 – if you are running an ESC that doesn’t have a built in BEC such as the DYS BL20A.
The OSDoge is about $70. It might sound like a lot but let’s look closer at a price breakdown. If you were to buy separate components that’s included on the 36mmx36mm board it would cost around $45. An OSD board is around $20, LC filter is $15 and a 5v BEC is $5. But if you were to go this route you will have a huge mess of wires on your quad. This makes building/installing harder and a nightmare to troubleshoot. I would pay extra just to clean up the build and make everything simpler.
Parts used in this build
How to install OSDoge
First you need to determine the setup of your quad. On the back of the board, there are a series of jumper pads you need to select. Make your selection if you are running 3s or 4s, how many volts your video transmitter needs and your camera voltage. Make sure you set the correct battery you are using. If you put the jumper on Batt Direct to 12V (right jumper) whatever you plug into the VBAT will go to your 12v sources. Say if you had this set and put a 4s battery, your VTX and camera will get 16.8v. That could cause some magic smoke.
To power your Naze32, you must determine if you will use the 5v from the OSDoge (on channel 6) OR power off the 5v from your ESC (if it has one). Do not use both.
You can ignore the RSSI filter jumper and RSSI input. This isn’t needed for the way I’ll show you how to get RSSI.
To set the jumper, put a blob of solder across two of the pads.
Next use the included male/female header pins and place them in the Vbat, TX/RX and 5v if you are powering your Naze32 with this board. Use the 10mm nylon standoff to help you align the boards. Then line up the holes and stack them together.
Solder the pins. They should line up perfectly when pulled apart.
Next solder the 6 pin 90 degree header for the camera and vtx and 2 pin 90 degree header for the VBAT. The VBAT connects directly to the battery.
This is what OSDoge OSD board should look like when it’s mounted on the Naze32. Super clean with minimal wires. I like to put stack the OSDoge on top instead of the Naze32 on top because it gives you more room for the FPV cables.
This is very important:
The OSDoge is designed to stack with the Naze32. If you power the OSDoge without stacking or connecting to VBAT on the Naze32, you will smoke the OSD. DO NOT TRY TO POWER THE OSDOGE BY ITSELF.
Setting up the OSDoge
12/2/15 UPDATE
If you are using a new OSDoge flashed with MWOSD 1.5x, please see this OSDoge update guide. All OSDoge boards sold from my store after 12/1/15 will be the new boards.
Once you have everything soldered it’s time to configure the board. Download MWOSD GUI, and make sure you have the latest version of JAVA on your computer. UPDATE: I’ve been told you need Java 7 to be able to connect to the GUI. Otherwise the board will not connect.
Make sure you flip the toggle switch on the OSDoge board towards the USB. This will disconnect the TX/RX from the Naze32. It won’t connect if you don’t do this. Plug in the USB into the OSDoge and choose a com port on the top left (green box) to connect.
Now you can configure your board however you want. Use the simulator on the right to get a preview of what it looks like. We’ll just focus on two things, Main Voltage and RSSI.
The screenshot above is configured for my setup. Set your Main Voltage to what you see above. We’ll calibrate the battery voltage below.
How to get RSSI on the OSDoge!
Here is the magic part! This setup is using the FrSky d4r-ii on PPM.
1. On the Taranis, creat a new channel (page 5/12) that’s not being used in Cleanflight. I use CH8.
In order to have this INPUTS screen, the Taranis needs to be on version 2 firmware. If you are still on ver1, you won’t have this screen. To update your Taranis firmware, download OpenTX Companion and update to the latest firmware. I’m using ver2.0.17.
2. Set input name to RSSI, source RSSI, scale 100, weight 100
3. In channel mixer for the channel you used, set source to iRSSI, weight 200, offset -100
4. In Cleanflight, do NOT enable RSSI_ADC in the configuration tab
5. In the receiver tab select the channel you used set on the Taranis for RSSI. In my case, channel 8.
6. On the MWII OSD GUI in the RSSI box. Enable RSSI, Enable MWII, set RSSI Min to zero, RSSI Max to 255 (MWII GUI screenshot above).
7. Finished and enjoy the RSSI.
Connect the VTX and camera to the 6 pin 90 degree header. It’s pretty self explanatory. Ground, positive and signal to camera and same thing on the Video transmitter.
How to Calibrate the battery voltage.
To get the the OSD settings through your goggles, with your Naze32 disarmed, move your sticks YAW right and pitch up. Use a LiPo battery checker to get your battery voltage.
Use the pitch and roll to move the cursor and yaw to adjust.
Go to this screen and adjust the battery voltage until it matches the voltage on the LiPo checker.
Boom! Your new OSDoge board is set and you now have OSD with working voltage and RSSI! Get out and fly!
If you found this post helpful, it would be super cool if you purchased the components from my store or purchase items from my Amazon links. These posts are expensive and take a loooong time to make so the purchases make it possible for me to keep making them. Thanks in advance, I greatly appreciate it 🙂
I’m confused? Are you saying not to solder the rssi jumper on the bottom? Also are you using the volt2 rssi amps connection? I ordered the doge from you and am using the exact same setup. Thanks
Yes you are correct. The rssi jumper and rssi output is NOT needed from ch2 on d4r-ii. I’ve tried this method and could never get it to work. I could only get zero or 100%.
This method is using the reading from the Taranis and outputting it on a channel to the CPPM signal to your naze32 then to the OSDoge. Try it, it works. Let me know if you need help.
Seems a bit too much when you have a 10$ minim osd that can be flashed with many OSD firmwares.
Yeah I have one of those too. But for my build I would need a 5v BEC and LC filter. This would equal a huge jungle of wires everywhere. I’m OCD, I can’t have that 🙂
How to use the buzzer and telemtry pins on the naze since theres no more room for servo cables and pins.
Not sure what you are asking. The buzzer goes in the buzzer output pins on the Naze32. Telemetry pins aren’t used in this method. Battery monitoring will come from VBAT and RSSI is coming from the Transmitter.
Do you just solder the buzzer wires straight to the naze since the pins and servo wont fit under the OSD
I used a 2pin 90 degree header for the naze32 facing in. I have a post coming out tomorrow on how this is setup.
I’m going to order another naze board from you since i fried my first one, but I already wired in the stacking pins for the OSD. Do you sell these stacking pins and 90 degree pins?
Hey Mike, send me a message before you order. I have some pins but just haven’t listed it in the store. I can put some in your package.
For the life of me I can’t figure out why there’s no communication between my naze32 and the osdoge. I’ve even verified that nothing is coming across the tx/rx lines with a logic analyzer. Have you ever run into this? Any advice on what I can try?
I’ve never had a problem with that. Dumb question but did you have the toggle switch set to the left (away from the USB)? Right means disconnect the TX/RX.
Hi mate,
Just a heads up, the OSDoge GUI does not run with the latest version of Java (1.8 RTE), it throws up spurious error messages, some judicious use of my oracle contacts and I tried 1.7, the GUI lit right up.
thanks for the heads up Adam. i will test it soon
Hello,
I have spent many hours working with latest Java, and can’t get the GUI running. Won’t work with the latest install. I have also removed and reinstalled Java, still same. Can’t get a safe copy of older version to try? Have you got any other feed back on Java issues?
Hi chuck, i’ve been told it will need Java 7 to connect to the GUI.
The battery voltage shows up great on the on-screen display, but is there a way to get the battery voltage into the taranis radio so that I can set up low-voltage audible alert? I have a frksyVBS1and I can wire that into the direct battery voltage but I don’t know if I can plug that into my D4r2 then I am running in PPM mode.
A follow up for my post. You don’t really need to setup the taranis with voltage as it is overkill when using the OSDOGE. You can read your voltage the entire time you are in the air. Just know what you voltage you should land at. I am running 4S so I allow a buffer so as not to run the cells too low. I always land around 14 volts. That leave each cell at 3.5v and allows some error for unbalanced cells that may be lower.
In the Battery Voltage section, it states, “To get the the OSD settings through your goggles, with your Naze32 disarmed.”
This might be a dumb question, but how would I disarm the Naze32? Is this the same as disconecting the TX/RX toggle switch on the OSDOGE towards the usb port?
If you didn’t set an arm switch on the TX and mode in Cleanflight, default stage when you plug in your battery would be disarmed. If you did set an arm/disarm on the tx and cleanflight, just make sure it’s in the disarmed stage.
Got it thanks much.
Any idea on how to setup the low voltage alarm? Mine is set the same as yours at “102” but the alarm never starts flashing. How do you calibrate that? I’m already calibrated on my main voltage and I am running 4S.
Thanks!
Did you set the 102 alert on the OSD? If you are running 4s it should be set to 13.6 (3.4 per cell). You can set the threshold in the OSD. With your naze32 disarmed on the Taranis, yaw right and pitch up. This will bring you into the OSD settings. From there scroll until you get to the voltage settings. From there you can set 3s/4s, calibrate your voltage and set the alert.
I already set it all up just like you show here. The problem is it doesn’t show voltages under the OSD settings it shows the number 102. Does that stand for 10.2 V?
hey troy, would it be possible to send me a photo or screenshot?
Yea, I have this same problem too, what does 102 mean on the Main Voltage Alarm? And how do I make it flash at 13.6V.
you can change the warning threshold in the osd menu on the voltage page.
I have the toggle to the right closest to the USB. The comm port that lights up with highlighted green only has “manual” which does not work. Your screen and others have multiple choices in which to connect through port connection highlighted in green.
Sincerely unconnectable
what version of Java are you on? I’ve been told that you need Java 7 to be able to connect.
Hi,
Can I use this OSDoge with SP Racing F3 Flight Controller (Deluxe)? stackable?
I haven’t had a chance to test out that fc but from the looks of the pin layout it won’t stack on the OSDoge.
Not tried it but I have both a Naze with Osdoge and a sp3 delux for which I use a minimosd micro.
Firmware/software/protocol wise it isn’t a problem. However as Mike points out the connectors on the sp3 are not in the same place as they are on a Naze. You have 3 pairs of pins you normally connect between the Naze and the doge:
Power- this may still work with pins, the +and ground from the doge would provide power to the sp3 via ESC power and ground inputs (for gods sakes watch your orientations)
The middle pins (tx and rx) would need connecting to tx and rx on UART1 on the sp3, (again be careful, uart1 also has a +5 and ground pin) finally the battery outs would connect to the pads for battery on the edge of the board pretty much at the opposite side from UART1 (please please please watch orientation
It is all achievable but it is going to be messier than mounting with Naze
thanks for the input Adam.
cant get in the osd from the goggles
disarm the naze32 and on the transmitter, move the sticks right yaw and pitch up. it will bring up the menu
i have replicated this build and my video is no good..it cuts out and changes to black and white when i work the throttle…i tried a different vtx and different antennas..same results..this happened before the osdoge..not sure what bis going on?
what components are you using?
Typically if you lose video when you throttle up your battery ampage is a problem.
For example if you are using an ESC/motor/prop combination that will draw 22 amps, then total you are going to pull 88 amps (assuming it is a quad copter) at full throttle. If your battery was something like a 1800mah 25c 4s it can handle 45 amps (1.8 x 25) – if you scoot up the throttle the motors try and draw more power than the battery can provide (way more, your quad in this example is vastly under powered) and the doge would be deprived of juice, hence the loss of video
ditto what Adam said. what’s your setup?
Everything that is in the qav250 build on this page..naze 32 osdoge immersion 600mw tx and Sony pzo420 on 3s. Also I’ve noticed when flying Los I can see the blue led on the Osdoge flickering..
Definaly a power problem, if you’re running 3s it is less likely that it is simply under powered but you need to provide more detail to be absolutely certain, can you please provide:
Motors (make and spec)
Propellers (make and spec)
ESCs (make and spec)
Battery (spec – ie cells, ampage, c rating)
If it is not simply underpowered then it is a physical problem- bad solder joint or something shorting,may be compounded by vibration or oscillation from bad tuning or unbalanced props or motors)
When I installed the MW OSD GUI R1.2+ in my Mac OSX I got the following error: To open “MW_OSD_GUI.app” you need to install the legacy Java SE 6 runtime. I am running Java 8 right now and it wants 6.
Yeah it needs Java 7. Java 8 won’t work
MOTORS- LUMINEER 1806-14-2300KV
ESCS- DYS BLHELI -20A
BATTERY- LUMINEER 1300 3S 35C 70C BURST
PROPS- GEMFAN 5030
VTX- IMMERSION RC 600MW ON 5.8GHZ
ANTENNAS- FATSHARK RHP
FPV GOGGLES- FATSHARK DOMINATOR V3
VRX- FATSHARK MODEL# FSV2442 5G8 32CH WITH RACEBAND
FPV CAM- SONY MODEL:PZ0420 NTSC 5-17V
FLIGHT CONTROLLER- NAZE 32 ACRO
OSD- OSDOGE W/ BATTERY SELECTION ON DIRECT TO BATT AND 12V TO CAMERA AND 12V TO VTX
RX- FR SKY D4R-II IN PPM MODE
TX- FR SKY TARANIS PLUS
-THANK YOU GUYS FOR HELPING
I run a very similar setup except for cobra motors, doesn’t sound like a power problem. There is a bad connection somewhere. Check the FPV cables.
when i was flying LOS…i could see the blue led on the osdoge kind of flickering…
So if I leave the 12v regulated jumper will I still be able to run 3S or will I have to resolder the jumper to ‘bat direct’ in the field?
Does the regulator handle 3S fine or will regulate it down to a lower unusable voltage?
Or will I have to maybe try to add a switch to those jumpers to change between 3S and 4S?
For future reference. I was able to run 3S with the 12v regulated jumper soldered with no issues. The only thing is that every time I switch between 3S/4S I have to adjust the battery and voltage alarm in MWOSD, but that can be done quickly using the tx and the googles.
How do i set it up if I have my ESC’s powering my Naze32?
use the power and ground from channel 1 esc to channel 1 on the Naze32 and the rest of the esc will be signal only.
“If you power the OSDoge without stacking or connecting to VBAT on the Naze32, you will smoke the OSD”
Does this include usb connection to the computer? Just want to poke around before my naze shows up
no, you can connect the usb to the board with no problems.
Thanks
I followed your exact instructions and I can’t get everything to work. I only get the osd to display, I can’t get the video feed (only the black screen with osd information in it). I have verified that the camera works because if I wire the vtx and the camera directly I get the video like normal. Is the board defective or am I doing something wrong?
My vtx is a FX799T 200mW and my camera is a Sony Super HAD 600 TVL.
Thanks!
what are your jumpers set at?
Bat Direct to 12V, VTX 12V, Cam 12V… I verified that 12V is coming out of the cam and vtx pins using a multimeter… Btw what is the JUMP pads aligned with ground between the cam and vtx pins? Thanks
And are you sure you have connected the camera the correct way round
(I have exactly the same components on a quad I finished last week, works fine)
Check your video type in MWGUI, nst (or whatever you Americans use) or PAL and make sure it matches what your camera is using
Yes I’m 100% sure it’s connected right, I even tried with a different VTX (TS5823). I also tried switching between NTSC and PAL and shows the same thing.
I also noticed that the video LED on the board is not blinking or anything, it just shows the blue LED.
Here’s are some pictures of the wiring and the screen I’m getting.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/890cpxo4dhr4nze/OSDOgeWiring.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/gr5eceb4pd54lpl/OSDOgeScreen.JPG
You never had that happen to you? So weird…
the video LED shouldn’t blink, it should stay solid. if you are seeing the osd overlay then the issue is with the camera.
I just tried another Sony Super HAD 600 TVL and a 480 TVL camera and I see the same thing. Plus if I directly connect the camera with the VTX the cameras work fine. It’s almost like the video is not going through the osd.. Maybe I have a bad board 🙁
check all your solder joints and connections.
I triple checked all joints and connections, even checked if there’s anything burned on the board and nothing, still same thing 🙁
I have had it happen to me, I have seen many people have the problem, all fell in to one of the following:
1. Lense cap still on (d’oh)
2. Camera plugged in wrong way round
3. Bad crimp/solder
4. Too much heat during solder caused cam signal pad to lift off trace
5. Nstc/PAL set differently on cam from doge
6. Camera voltage jumper shorted or set incorrectly
7. Large capacitor knocked off the board
I also would speculate having the regulator set so you can use 4s but plugging in a 3s battery could cause this with a camera that needs 12v (the regulator will pull some of the voltage off resulting in lower voltage to camera than it needs
Board looks good on pic but (obviously) can’t see soldering, jumper settings or crimps
I’ve checked all of the things you have on that list. I even switched to 4S and changed the voltage jumper to see if it would fix anything, but nothing…
Here are some images up close, if you see anything that stands out let me know.
The last few images is me trying different cameras;
Also I had to direct solder the TX/RX because the pins broke and I didn’t have a replacement;
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/4ack2yw52pz676e/AABaVzAAMDkELPMlSn-FjeO0a
Thanks
Hello, I have been following along in the background. Good pictures. The first problem I see is the broken cap at the nylon standoff you put the nut on, right next to the Video input. I would replace that cap and give it a go. If we look up the part value it is an easy fix.
I will look over the other pictures, but I think this will fix it….
Chuck Nolin
WA6LTV/4
Are you talking about this one? https://www.dropbox.com/s/8zsl7crjczbh8za/broken.png
Do you know which part is that and where can I buy one?
Thanks!
Hello,
Yes that part is broken of the board next to the nylon nut. Ask, and look around for the schematic for the board and when we get the part value, I may have them here in my parts collection. If not, I know a few places that will have it. But for now see if you can get the schematic and lets ID the part. It looks like a cap. I will help this evening, but look around RC groups and Google search for it. I have done a bunch of this type of board assembly here, hobby….
Let me know how it goes.??
Chuck Nolin
WA6LTV4
wow, nice catch. i would have never saw that
Hello Adam, Admin??.
Thank you, I am glad that I could help. I know how hard those type of issues can be. I wanted to thank you very much for the very clear, and clean video you made here. I followed along very closely building my ZMR250 pro, with 2204 – 2300kv Tmotors.
Active Braking, One shot, all the goodies, 4mm arms all very good fit, carbon fiber frame. I hid my wires and very happy with the performance.
Thanks again for doing such a good job of explaining how to do each step and why. I have watched all of your video’s and enjoyed all of them. Good Job, again….
Chuck Nolin
WA6LTV/4
Thanks for your help on figuring out a problem.
That’s awesome man! Glad I could help.
mike
Hi chuck,
(I am not affiliated with the site, just been helped by Mike so much I like to try and help back)
One thing you probably want to consider, the tmotors come with locknuts that only work for one rotation, after a bit of flight time or a couple of crashes you will find then nuts on (from memory) motors 1 and 4, keep spinning off, I say keep spinning off, then tend to fly off never to be seen again, shortly followed by the propeller, I strongly recommend either buying a pair of the opposite direction fittings (most t-motor suppliers have them or can get them) or getting some proper lock nuts
Thanks, adam. I think you know more than me now 🙂
Yeah the prop nuts that come with tmotors are useless. I just use some regular direction nylon locknuts and it works fine. The CCW adapters from tmotor are crazy expensive.
Got it to WORK! 🙂
I first tried to email DTF UHF and see if they would send me the capacitor info but I didn’t get a response.
Then I noticed that there was a cap of the exact same size in a malfunctioning SN20A ESC, so I desoldered it from the esc and soldered into the OSDOge and it worked!
Here’s a pic, it’s not the perfect solder job but hey it works! Those things are tiny! https://www.dropbox.com/s/92upi6vlaze2mky/fixed.JPG
And here are some pics of it working, now the video LED lights up!
https://www.dropbox.com/s/xtkcqsph9zjjctn/after-fix.JPG
https://www.dropbox.com/s/937846d0mrwcksx/after-fix-2.JPG
Thanks all for the help! Brought $70 back to life 🙂
thanks Chuck N!
For future reference, DTF UHF replied and that’s a 0402 size 0.1uF capacitor.
Hello Rigo,
That’s good information. I figured it was around that value. .1, .01, a standard value. I am so glad you have it working now. I know how upsetting it is to have those problems. I hope you get to enjoy flying now.
Good job on getting the cap installed, and taking on the challenge of installing that small part !!
I really enjoyed the video’s here, I followed very closely building my ZMR250 pro, that came out great, extra clean with no wires showing. Now to get my RSSI working.
Good luck;
Chuck Nolin
WA6LTV/4
Clutching at straws a little, can you post a screenshot of the GUI connected?
Here’s a screenshot. I had to use my PC because I couldn’t get it to work on the Mac.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/bzw0nkwtnezxiln/MWOSD.png
1.2 connects, reads and writes. I tried using 1.5 but it wouldn’t connect, maybe because it needs to have the firmware updated? (which btw no idea how to do that, not clear on the GUI)
Boards come with 1.2, only a 1.2 GUI will connect
Flashing requires Arduino. (Like a minim)
That is interesting.
Observations:
1. There are multiple com ports listed
2. The picture to the top right should be giving you an overlay of the OSD on the picture, it isn’t displaying anything
I am wandering if you are not connecting to the correct com port and so, for example, when you changed between Nstc and pal, you made no change to the board
Also wandering what hid layout you have
I have a problem with the OSDOGE overlay. IT works fine when the camera is not connected. However when I plug the camera on the OSDOGE screen disappears and the camera image showns up? Not sure if there is a configuration i missed?
can you tell me how you are connecting the camera to the OSDoge? what are you using and how is it powered.
Same setup as youve done. Camera (Sony 960H CCD II 700TVL 12V NTSC) is is connected to OSDoge…. Cam to the data wire, power to the power wire and ground to the ground wire. OSDoge to Video transmitter (Immersion 5.8GHz 600mW)…..VTX to the video transmitter, power to power and ground to ground. OSDoge is directly powered from the power board. Power to VBAT and ground to Ground. OSDoge is jumpered to 12V for cam and 12V for transmitter. 12V is jumpered to regulated.
3s or 4s?
4s
I am having a problem with the voltage not working. I have it stacked on a naze32. OSDoge is powered by a 4S and the OSDoge is powering the naze32. I have followed your guides and triple checked my settings. For some reason I just get 0.0V flashing (flashing because below alarm threshold).
Any ideas? Everything else is working, such as arm/disarm, horizon line, RSSI from Taranis. Only thing not working is voltage.
did you disable “use MWii” for the battery voltage setting?
Sure have. I have tried so many different options. I would think this should be the easiest thing for the doge to receive and process.
Also “use MWii” is no longer an option on 1.5 so I am assuming that is now “use FC main voltage”.
if you are on 1.5, do not enable “use fc main voltage”
In MWGUI, in 1.5, under display voltage there is “use FC voltage” or something like that, have you got it checked?
“use FC main voltage” is not enabled. I am wondering if I have a faulty doge.
As per other place I think you asked, that needs to be checked and you need to confirm in cf configurator, when connected to the quad with the battery plugged in the voltage shows up on the settings tab
Was the solder pad on the bat pin that sends the bat voltage to the naze. Went straight to the bat regulate jumper and it is working now.
Cheredanine, pleased to meet you 🙂 this has been confusing talking on two forums at once, check you are getting bat voltage not regulated voltage
Just wondering when the next batch of boards will be ready?
hi, we are expecting a shipment today!
It seems to me you have to be a computer genius to get this simple osd Rssi, information in your goggles! I use Mac, and getting java7 is a chore in itself. Very frustrating for a 60 year old that loves Fpv flying. Hell I can’t even find the link to get the screen to setup your osd age. 70.00 worth of trouble, but I learned NOT to use osd, in mini quads again. I’m through venting, everybody have a great new year!
Hi Tom, what issues are you having? I just looked up your order and the OSDoge board you got is running the newer MWOSD 1.5. Have you checked out this post? https://fpv-flightclub.com/osdoge-setup-update/
Just getting java7 on my Mac, so I can get the setup software to work. I’ll figure it out. You saying my board has the new firmware does that mean it’s ready out of box?
Thanks for the reply
Tom
I’m saying your board is the newer firmware so you can use Java 8 and follow the post to get everything setup.
Sorry for being a Pain. Just can’t seem to find the link to get the screen to set your osd, up, flt. Mode voltage, call sign ect. Seems like a little much to me sorry.
Hi Thomas, below is the link for the MWOSD GUI to make all the settings.
https://github.com/ShikOfTheRa/scarab-osd/archive/R1.5.zip
I’ve got it working, I think, thanks flight for all the patients for this old man, just one more ? If I may, I’m using the taranus plus how do you use the radio to calibrate the voltage? Thanks again flight, it means a lot!
Tom
awesome man! I’m not sure what you mean by calibrate the voltage using the Taranis?
To get the right voltage in the goggles, do you do that with the goggles menus?
The voltage can be measured on the OSDoge or the Naze, on MWGUI you have the option of use FC voltage sensor, if you check this you are using the Naze sensor, if you don’t you are using the OSDoge sensor.
Which ever you are using you need to calibrate, there is a voltage scale setting in that section of the MWGUI if you are using the OSDoge sensor, or in cleanflight in the config tab on the right hand side, you adjust these to adjust the voltage reading from the sensor.
You will need a voltmeter plugged into the flight battery or measuring the voltage across the vbat pins to know what the voltage reading needs to be (frsky do a nice one designed to be used with smartport which has an LED screen, I keep one in my goggles case, just plug it into the balance lead). If you are using the voltage from the FC you can see what the sensor thinks the voltage is on the setup page on the right, you flip back and forth between setup and config, adjusting the voltage scale until the reading on the setup page matches the voltmeter, remembering to hit save on the config page every time you make an adjustment
If you are using the OSDoge sensor I don’t recall off the top of my head if the voltage is displayed in the MWGUI, you may need to plug your goggles in to see what it is reading but same approach, adjust the scale until the reading matches the voltmeter
You mention GPS…any recommendation on a specific GPS module for the OSDoge?
I wouldn’t recommend GPS on the Naze32. It’s terrible and highly unreliable from my experience.
I purchased a rev6 naze32 from you and a osdoge. Do you have a diagram for how you stack them. I know that the rev6 has a different layout so I just want to make sure I have the correct soldering points for the connectors. Thank you!
hi! if you watch this video it will explain the differences: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QG5GXBkkl4A
Hi, I followed your video installing the OSDoge and plugged everyting together. The video feed is working fine, but I get no OSD at all on the screen.
Do I have to enable the OSD anywhere to get it on the screen?
Thanks
what parts are you using?
Naze32 Rev 6, OSDoge 1.5, Sony Super HAD 600TVL (PAL), ImmersionRC 5.8GHZ 600mW, Quanum v2 + RC832, Taranis Plus 2.0.18 + D4R-II.
there is a setting in the OSDoge menu for NTSC or PAL. change it to PAL
Changing to PAL in the OSDoge menu fixed it! Many thanks!!!
Nice! go fly!
I had the same problem on 3s batteries. I switched the solder jumper to direct to battery not regulated. That fixed it. But my osd freezes whenI arm my quad.
Hopefully this is not a stupid question. I am trying to calibrate the voltage for the OSD. When I hook the battery to a bat. checker it reads 12.2 volts (3s). When I got to adjust the voltage through the goggles the voltage adjust number reads 200. I was expecting to see something like 11.9 and I would change it to 12.2. What should that number be and how do I calculate that?
you adjust that 200 until the display voltage on top matches your battery voltage. mine is usually set around 219 to get the correct 12.5v.
I learned a very important (and expensive) lesson about the OSDoge today….. I was having trouble with my VTX and wanted to rule out an issue with my crimping work on the power cables. I took off the black plastic wire cover and attached them directly to the pins and powered it up. I ended up getting the issue resolved but during one of my tests the two wires touched and the component on the OSDoge with the 221 number on it (pretty sure it is the LC filter) popped and smoked. Now no power goes to the 6 pins for Camera and VTX…… Lesson learned, never attach power wires without covering them…..
magic smoke sucks!
@FlightClub Thanks now it makes sense. By the way. I never would have made it through my first build if it was not for your videos. They were very detailed. I’m still not able to get telemetry on the taranis x9d plus. I have all of the internal components that you have (naze32 rev 6, OSDoge, frskydr4-ii) I’ll play with that a little bit. I’m guessing it has to do with the firmware on the plus. Some of my menus are different than what was in your video. Thanks Again!!
Hey and thanks for the awesome tutorials! I just got the QAV250 assembled that I ordered from You, but i’m having trouble getting the RSSI showing in OSDoge.
I’m running OpenTX 2.1.7 on my Taranis, but there’s no RSSI as an input source. Everything should be set up like in the tutorial videos You made.
Never mind, i figured it out. You’ll have to first do “discover new sensors” on the telemetry page in Taranis. A new feature in 2.1.7 i think.
My RSSI was not in input source. What do you mean by first do discover new sensors. I found the page and “discover new sensors” but what do you do then?
hit select on discover new sensors, then the RSSI option will show up.
Extremely clean bill. Nicely done. Thanks for the parts you have available to.
your welcome!
Mike, if you want telemetry on the taranis you need to connect a uart on the Naze to the signal pins on the sport connection on the d4r and send frsky telemetry down the uart, this is in addition to the connections Mike uses on his video
Hi,
I have camera feed with OSD however I’m getting ‘NO DATA’ and ‘DISARMED’ flashing at the bottom of the screen.
Any ideas?
do you have the switch set away from the USB connector?
Yes switch is away from USB
has anybody had this issue; my voltage display on my osd in my goggles is jumping all over the place.. Im running the osd odge naze 32 stack, and this issue started after a soft crash.
What GUI do I need for osdoge, on my Windows 8 HP?
Windows 32 bit
Same version number as the version of MWOSD installed in the osdoge, (although I usually just flash the osd with the latest version)
I just figuered out I had to upgrade to windows 10 for it all work..
Hey Mike I’m also getting the message no data flashing on the bottom. Followed all your instructions step by step this is my 3rd time retrying but still no luck.
Hi David, can you use the support form. There are too many factors to nail down just a single issue.
https://fpv-flightclub.com/support/
Does the osdoge connect to uart1 and the switch is what allows you to share uart1 with the usb? I plan on using a X4R-SB with sbus.
Yes, on a naze or DTFc board the doge has jumpers to uart 1 (the pair that are not on the edge of the board – you need to have uart1 set to MSP and you can not use it for anything else except in the case of the naze which uses uart1 for the USB port.
You can get away with this because you only use the osd in the air and you only use the USB port on the ground, you use the switch on the osdoge to control which you are talking to
is there a way to bypass the toggle switch on the doge if it breaks off? that switch is very delicate. also do you sell replacement pin connectors for the osdoge?
I don’t know how to bypass the switch. yes i have spare pins for the OSDoge
https://fpv-flightclub.com/product/male-female-header/
Hi Cris,I have the same problem you had a few months ago did you solve it by any chance,I have spent all weekend trying to sort it out but still the same thanks.
Hi Terry.
No data (and dissarmed) occurs when the flight controller is not talking to the osd. It can happen for a number of reasons, as above the toggle switch dissabkes this if it is towards the osd, also assuming you have used pins to connect to the flight controller, the relevant uart (uart1 on both the naze and the DTFc) needs to be set to MSP
Thanks Adam i will that ago,have you got any pics of it just in case I get stuck thanks terry.
Hi Terry,
Working away from home ATM so no where near quads and don’t think I can attach pics in here, however
If you go through mikes how to set up a qav250 and how to set up RSSI he covers it all. Assuming you are using naze or DTFc you need to go to the portspage in cleanflight (or betaflight) configurator and check that usrt1 is set to MSP (and has nothing else enabled), if you are using a dodo don’t know which uart it is but should be easy enough to figure out by getting the board pin out
Then check the toggle switch is away from the USB port and you should be good
Hi I haven’t sovled my problem but just found another one?,I have put the usb in my osd doge connected it to MWOSD R1.6 and the toggle switch on my osdoge don’t do anything when you switch it back and forth,I can connect to MWOSD in both positions,could this be my problem,I can’t even get into the osdoge menu,please has anybody had the same problem thanks terry.
unless you have the OSDoge stacked on the Naze32 or the DTFc, the toggle switch does nothing. The toggle switch is to connect/disconnect the TX/RX to the flight controller.
Send me some screen shots of your cleanflight and MWOSD screens. [email protected]
Just sent some screen shots hope this helps,I also took two of my quad connections with vtx and camera,and one when connected to power.
I have a question regarding the battery selection. I’m currently have 3s batteries but I plan on upgrading my motors and ESC’s soon. I’ll be getting a 4s battery as well.
My question is whether or not I should just solder the 4s connection now to future proof my OSDoge board? Is it possible to go from 3s to 4s or vice versa if the 4s connections are used?
yes i would go ahead and set it to the 4s setting. That way you can run 3s and 4s