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How to Set up a QAV250

How to setup a QAV250

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In part 1 of this three part post I talked about how important it is to carefully choose your components when building a QAV250.  In part 2 we installed the ESCs, OSDoge and motors.  Part 3 will be installing the FPV camera, video transmitter, set up the Taranis and set up the Naze32 in Cleanflight.  Then some flight footage.

We’ll cover the OSDoge a little but head over to the dedicated post for OSDoge for setting up the Taranis, Cleanflight and MWOSD.

Parts used in this build in addition to part 2:


The worst thing to happen to an FPV addict like me is to crash, break something and need to bench your quad until you can get replacements.  This happened to me a lot with my first QAV250 so for my second one I made a lot of protection parts.

Let’s get started!

First thing we’ll do is set up a new model on the Taranis X9D.  See video above on how to do that.

CleanFlight and the Naze32

osdoge setupBefore you connect the USB on the Naze32 to your computer, make sure you move the toggle switch on the OSDoge towards the USB.  This toggle switch connects/disconnects the TX/RX to the Naze32.  If you don’t do this you’ll have problems connecting.

  1. Download and install Google Chrome
  2. Install/Add Cleanflight
  3. Download and install the CP210X USB to UART Bridge VCP driver for your computer system.
  4. Connect the flight controller via micro USB to the computer.
  5. In Cleanflight in the “Firmware Flasher” tab, select the most current stable firmware for your flight controller in the drop down menu.
  6. Select “Load Firmware Online” and hit “Flash Firmware”
  7. If the firmware fails to load online you can download the firmware here.  Then select “Load Firmware Local”

cleanflight files

I’ll just show you the settings here.  The items circled in red are the changes we need to make.  Watch the video to see what each of these settings mean.  Anytime you make an adjustment in CleanFlight, make sure you hit “Save and Reboot” on the bottom before you move to another tab.  If you don’t you’ll loose your changes.

setup qav250

If you mount your Naze32 any other way than the arrow pointing forward, make sure you make the correct Yaw adjustment in CleanFlight.  The correct setting for this build is 90.

Bind the FrSky D4R-ii to the Taranis

d4r-ii bindingHow to bind the D4R-ii RX to the Taranis X9D.

  1. On page 2/13 in the Taranis, scroll down to “Mode” and change it from D-16 to D-8.
  2. Select “Bind” on the Taranis and it will start beeping.
  3. On the RX, hold the F/S button while powering up the RX.
  4. Release the button and disconnect power.  When you power back up the LED on the RX will be green and you’re done.

For the receiver tab to work you need to have your QAV250 plugged in the battery.  When you first connect your RX to your Naze32 you’ll notice the controls aren’t functioning like it shows in CleanFlight.  Change your Channel Map to TAER1234 and everything should function as normal.  Change RSSI Channel to whatever channel you set your Taranis to output RSSI.  In my case I used CH8.

setup qav250



To set up the Modes tab you QAV250 needs to be plugged into the battery.  Here are the settings I like to use.  You can use any switch you want.  First you need to assign switches in the Taranis for the AUX channels (see video).  On the Taranis the first 4 channels are reserved for flying the quad, throttle, yaw, pitch and roll.  AUX1 will be channel 5, AUX2 is channel 6, AUX3 is channel 7 and AUX4 is channel 8.

To set the mode:

  • Hit “Add Range” for the function you want
  • Select the correct AUX channel for the switch
  • On the Taranis, move that switch in the position you want
  • In CleanFlight, move the sliders to the position


I’ve been getting a lot of messages from people saying they don’t have the track “engon” track in their Taranis X9D+.  You can download the track from this link.  Once you download the track you want, drag that file into the SOUNDS folder in the microSD card in the Taranis.  The sound file will show up in the list on your Taranis.

Flight Modes
  • ANGLE: This is a self leveling mode with limits on flight angle.  If you let go of your sticks the quad will level out and you CAN’T do flips or rolls in this mode.
  • HORIZON:  Self leveling but without limits on flight angle.  If you let go of your sticks the quad will self level and you CAN do flips and rolls.
  • RATE/ACRO:  This is a full manual flight mode.  Non-self leveling and your quad will stay in whatever angle you leave it.

When you are done, hit save and reboot.

Calibrate the ESCs and Motor Testing


Calibrate ESC in CleanFlight

Make sure you do this part with the PROPS OFF.  I cringe when I see people on YouTube showing this with their props on.  You are asking to get cut up.

  • Hit the Motor Test checkbox
  • Move the Master slider all the way to the top
  • Plug in the battery.  You will hear a bunch of beeps and music from the motors.
  • Right after it’s done with the tones, move the master slider all the way to the bottom.
  • Let the motors finish it’s musical tones.
  • Reconnect the battery and test.  All the motors should spin at the same time.
Motor Rotation Test

See the picture on the top left of the Motors tab to see which direction the motors should be spinning.  With your PROPS OFF, individually spin each motor to see if they are spinning the correct direction.

If you payed attention to how the motors are connected to the ESCs, you shouldn’t need to reverse any of the motors.  See this diagram from part 2 of this build.  If you do need to, there are two ways.  You can reverse any 2 of the 3 motor wires or you can do it in BlHeli Suite.

calibrate qav250 esc

So now that we are finished with CleanFlight we can remove the negative leads on the ESC’s.  You can leave it on if you want.  But if you decide to leave it on, make sure you cover them.

Custom 3D Solutions

My first QAV250 there were a lot of things I didn’t like about it.  My second build, I came up with the 3D printed solutions.  Here is the first one.

PDB Cover

I designed a 3D printed spacer that replaces the 10mm standoffs.  Covering up the messy ESCs gives it a more finished look.  It helps keep grass and water away from the electronics.

qav250 setup qav250 setup

It’s designed with a tab on the front and back to keep the ESCs from moving around during flight.  It’s a good idea to secure the ESCs with double sided tape or zip ties if you aren’t using this cover.

qav250 setup

Motor Gaurds

The bad thing about the QAV250 is that the arms are fixed and not moveable like the ZUUL.  This means the motors will take a lot of damage on impact.  I got tired of smashing motors on my first quad so I designed some motor guards for the QAV250 frame.  They fit the QAV250 arms like a glove with the same bolt pattern on the bottom.  It also protects the bottom of the frame on the arms.

qav250 motor guards qav250 motor guards

Install the FPV Camera and Video Transmitter.

setup qav250

The OSDoge makes connecting the camera and transmitter so easy.  The board is labeled with what wires go where.  Just connect the camera and transmitter according to the labels.  On the ImmersionRC transmitter, remove the two left and two right wires from the 5p molex connector.  You only need the center (yellow) wire for the video signal.

I’m using a 3D prototype of the FPV camera mount here.  It’s angle is adjustable from 10-20 degrees and slides into the two 35mm standoffs in the front.

If you are using the carbon fiber plate with screws and nuts that came with QAV250, replace the screws and nuts with some zip ties.  If you hit a tree while using the screws you will crack your FPV camera board.  Zip ties will pop off and save your camera.

setup qav250

I like to use black mesh for the wires inside the quad.  It helps hid the messy wires.

Naze32 Firewall

Another problem I had with the QAV250 frame is that it uses the flight controller as the battery stop.  So that means if hit a tree trunk (I fly into a lot of trees) the battery is going to keep going forward right through your Naze32 breaking the nylon standoffs.  If you don’t have replacements, you are done for the day.  Even if you have replacements it’s a pain to swap out in the field.

I designed a firewall that stops keeps the battery from flying through the Naze32.  Especially needed in this build because the OSDoge/Naze32 is extra tall. Only weights 6g and slides right into the rear standoffs.  It has a cutout for the USB if you have it mounted that way and a cutout on the right side for the battery plugs if you side mount it like I do.

ImmersionRC 600mw Video Transmitter Protection

I love this transmitter but there are some things I don’t like about it.  It’s basically a circuit board with heat shrink around it.  That makes it an awkward shape and makes it difficult to mount.  Also the SMA connector for the antenna is soldered directly on to the circuit board.   If your antenna is unsecured and you take a hit, it will rip the SMA connector right off the board.  If you can’t trace the leads back to where they go to solder you’re screwed and out $70.  I’ve destroyed two transmitters this way.  Yeah you can use a 90 SMA adapter or an extension but you sacrifice on picture quality.  I read some of those adapters reduce your transmit power by almost half.


This shell is designed to make the transmitter easy to mount.  It has tabs on the bottom that fit into the top plate of the QAV250.  The main function is to protect the SMA connector.  There is a reinforced part around where the SMA connector is soldered on to the circuit board.  It prevents the SMA from getting ripped off during crashes.

If you aren’t using this part, you should secure the antenna in a way where it won’t move at the SMA connector.  Do it the old fashion way and zip tie it to your frame.


Just a quick tip on installing the props.  The props that have a “R” go on the CW motors 1 and 4 (bottom right and top left).


This is very important.  Failsafe is a receiver feature that tells the quadcopter what to do if it loses the radio signal.  For a racing quadcopter you want set the failsafe to reduce throttle to zero if it looses the tx signal.

I know what you are thinking, why don’t you reduce the throttle to 20% so it will glide safely to the ground?  Here’s why: if your failsafe kicked in, it means you lost control of the quad.  You don’t want the props spinning at all if it “glides” into a group of people.  Keep in mind how sharp the props are.  It’s like a spinning knife weapon.

It would be great if it would just glide to the ground but it hardly ever lands that way.  Try this next time you are flying.  Fly in acro/rate mode, cut the throttle to 20%, let go of your controls and see what the quad does.  I promise you it will not glide safely to the ground.  It will crash in an awkward way with your throttle still at 20%.  You will not only break something but you’ll probably burn up your ESCs and/or motors.

It’s better to have your quad fall to the ground rather than fly into someone with spinning props.

Here’s how you set up failsafe on the FrSky D4R-ii

  1. Power up the quad and TX.
  2. On the TX, move the throttle to zero.
  3. Quickly (less than 1 second) press the F/S button on the D4R-ii.  Done.
  4. Test the failsafe.  Increase the throttle until motors start spinning and leave it there.  Turn off the TX.  The motors should stop spinning.


qav250 motor guard

immersionrc video transmitter protector

qav250 pdb cover

So that’s pretty much it for the build.  All that’s left is to install the velcro for the battery.  AUW as pictured is 355g and 490g with a 4s 70c battery.  Not bad considering it’s fully protected.

Flight Performance: This quadcopter is a beast on 4s!

Quick note: I actually already sold this quad before I did the test flight so I was taking it very carefully making sure I didn’t crash 🙂

This custom QAV250 is so light, nimble and has loads of power.  Actually a little too much for my current skill level.  In normal flying it had excess power.  I never really needed to go over 80% throttle most of the time flying around 50-70% for tree cruising (flying through a lightly wooded area).  The BL20A ESCs with dampen light and active breaking gave the quad a really nice feel with really good control.  It felt like you could put the QAV250 anywhere you wanted with loads of power to punch out of trouble.

With this setup I was getting about 6-7 min of flight time on a 75c 1300mah 4s battery.  Of course flight time depends on how you fly.

So if you are thinking about building a QAV250 or even building your first quad, do your research before buying.  You will save a lot of money and have a much better quad in the long run.

If you found this post helpful, it would be super cool if you purchased the components from my store or purchase items from my Amazon links.  These posts are expensive and take a loooong time to make so the purchases make it possible for me to keep making them.  Thanks in advance, I greatly appreciate it 🙂

By | 2016-02-18T12:54:38+00:00 August 13th, 2015|Build|199 Comments


  1. Matt 08/13/2015 at 11:31 am - Reply

    Form and function design principles applied nice work.

  2. John 08/15/2015 at 12:42 pm - Reply

    When will the camera mount be for sale ? It’s a really nice design and I’m looking for 1 for my qav250.

    • FlightClub 08/15/2015 at 1:46 pm - Reply

      It will be out in the next couple of days 🙂

  3. Steven 08/16/2015 at 9:15 pm - Reply

    Really nice job. I ordered all of the 3D items and they are due to be delivered tomorrow! It’s going to feel like Christmas tomorrow! To any newbies out there….follow his instructions to the letter and you will have yourself a BEAST of a QAV250 quad.

  4. Julien 08/17/2015 at 5:28 pm - Reply

    congrats, ! Excellent tuto ! Brest ever!!!
    Do You plan to make video tuto on PID,,, bécause In the video u do not explain the PID tab…

    • FlightClub 08/17/2015 at 8:43 pm - Reply

      Thanks! Yes the PID video is coming 🙂

  5. Dan Blake 08/18/2015 at 9:44 am - Reply

    Excellent as usually. Very good attention to detail. One thing that I can’t figure out is that I soldered my ESCs (RG20) to my motors exactly opposite of your diagram (crossed at 2 & 4 instead of 1 & 3)), but they are turning the right direction without any configuration in BlHeli Suite. Go figure. I love the firewall on this quad. I’ve bashed a 4S pack into the Vbat pins more times than I’d like to admit. Cheers!

    • FlightClub 08/18/2015 at 10:25 am - Reply

      Interesting. I just noticed you could do it this way when I started using the BL20A’s. I guess different brands do it their own way. I haven’t tried this with other brands yet.

  6. Dan Blake 08/18/2015 at 11:09 am - Reply

    My bad. I meant to say 1 & 4 straight to the ESC and 2 & 3 crossed is how I soldered mine. It was the first time that I had not used bullet connectors, and I was sure that they were going to spin the wrong way. Beginner’s luck I suppose. Really like the RG20s. Going to use them from now on, especially since they do heat testing so that you can feel confident about installing ESCs under the frame.

  7. James Blynn 08/24/2015 at 6:53 pm - Reply

    Really looking forward to trying that camera mount. Hope it is available soon.

  8. David Silva 08/25/2015 at 1:06 am - Reply

    Uh oh. Just build my second quad and Im having a weird issue. I went thru all the set up using the same items as this qav build here. Only thing Im using some junk esc’s which I may cut out and put some Afro 12a’s instead. So i get to clean flight. Flash my Naze and no problems. I get to the receiver portion on the set up and plug in my battery and it just beeps and beeps. the blue led is solid on the naze while connected to the usb. The green led on the naze is flashing in rhythm with the continuous beeping. I noticed the red led is not on tho. I plugged in my Zuul which run flawlessly and the red led states on. With that said, do you have any idea what might be wrong? And while Im in the receiver part of clean flight neither stick is registering any information. I binded the DR42 without any issue. Any experience with this issue? Thanks Bro.

    • FlightClub 08/25/2015 at 8:57 am - Reply

      is the naze sitting at a weird angle when it’s beeping? sometimes the naze will keep beeping if you try to arm it at an extreme angle. it should be near level.

  9. Steven 08/25/2015 at 9:17 am - Reply

    David, also the Afro ESC’s are low quality so I think you’d be making a lateral move there if you replace what you have with Afro’s.
    You might want to go with a better brand of ESC like KISS or similar.

  10. Dan Blake 08/25/2015 at 9:53 am - Reply

    I’ve had this happen when the mix channels don’t line up with my radio’s channel config.

    I’ve also had this happen when I had a rotary programmed to change PIDs and the rotary was turned to the extreme end of the range pitting the PID out of an allowable value.

    So…basically any continuous input from the radio that the Naze32 board doesn’t like.

  11. wuschelnuss 08/25/2015 at 10:35 am - Reply

    still waiting for the adjustable angle FPV camera mount, expect a big selivery to germany. greetings!

  12. Franklin 08/25/2015 at 2:22 pm - Reply

    Any idea on when the 3D printed camera mount will be released?

    • FlightClub 08/25/2015 at 3:57 pm - Reply

      It will be release in two weeks. I have it ready but I’ll be out of town next week. thanks!

  13. David Silva 08/25/2015 at 8:03 pm - Reply

    I figured it out. The jumper for the ppm fell off somehow. Although the esc’s that came with this cheap quad suck. Changing them out.

    • FlightClub 08/25/2015 at 9:04 pm - Reply

      i’ve done that plenty of times 🙂

  14. Andy 08/27/2015 at 5:51 pm - Reply

    What would one need to add GPS to this quad?

  15. James Blynn 09/06/2015 at 9:21 pm - Reply

    I have completed this build all but the FPV camera. I am new to this entire RC community (2 months ago) and with the help of your videos and others I am flying a top of the line quad. I would really like to use your 3d camera mount, as I have bought the entire set up and the camera mount would complete my build. The Lumenier camera mount just doesn’t do the build justice. Thank you for your videos I love the clean look. My OCD and all. Thank you!!!!

    • FlightClub 09/08/2015 at 9:00 pm - Reply

      Thanks James! The camera mount will be out this week. I need to tweak some small things

  16. NotAsPunkAsYou 09/10/2015 at 12:29 pm - Reply

    I am going to try and do this same build, but with your recommendations for the SunnySky 2204s 2300kv motors and the 5030 props. So I am guessing I need to go 3s on the battery. If I do the only thing I need to do different is in the soldering up OD Doge?

    • FlightClub 09/10/2015 at 11:55 pm - Reply

      yup, if you are going with 3s, just switch the jumper from 12v regulated to the direct to battery on the back of the OSDoge board. then in your OSD select 3s. done!

  17. wuschelnuss 09/13/2015 at 4:30 am - Reply

    Hi, i finally finished my quad, just need to order the 3d-parts 🙂 my question is: As i start flying the drone starts to vibrate as soon as it reaches a certain rpm. Can you show how you tuned your PIDs and how it works? Thank you!
    btw. the quad is gorgeous, thanks for your help!

    • FlightClub 09/13/2015 at 5:37 pm - Reply

      i have a pid video coming but in the meantime, here is a short answer for you. Not sure what you are running but in general if you lower P value it will stop the vibrations.

  18. Chris 09/14/2015 at 8:05 pm - Reply

    Put some heat shrink on the jumper and it won’t move as easy.

  19. Carl 09/14/2015 at 9:53 pm - Reply

    This build is NICE and CLEAN!! Great work!!

  20. Craig 09/15/2015 at 9:56 am - Reply

    In some of the photos, i notice you have a grommet or something under the bolts that hold on the PDB – what are you using here? Seems like a nifty way to avoid the stand-off’s.

    • FlightClub 09/15/2015 at 2:52 pm - Reply

      they are just small 3d printed feet. i’ll have them in the store soon 🙂

  21. Dave 09/15/2015 at 11:44 am - Reply

    Clear and concise explanation of a very clean build. I have been reading and digesting all snippets of info that I can find on building a QAV250 and your layout was exactly as I am intending to build mine. Although, due to financial constraints it’s going to take a little time to complete which I don’t mind as I am still learning as much as possible from various sources. Currently learning to fly on a Hubsan 107c with lots of spare batteries, and just can’t get enough of it.

    Currently I have the naze32 funfly (as I wish to move up to larger crafts for aerial filming) and the OSDoge board so that I can familiarise myself with configuration and software usage which has been explained in your videos.

    I would like to ask a couple of questions if that’s ok? The QAV250 created in your video is 4s powered and I was wondering if you noticed any instability issues due to the heavier battery at the rear of the machine causing centre of gravity issues due to the battery weight?

    Secondly, I would really like to order a few of the 3d printed items you have created as they are really well designed and thought out. The only thing is though you stock different colours and was wondering if you would be so kind as to add a colour palette so that we can see the colours rather than just the name of the colour?

    Thanks for taking the time to explain and document everything on your site! Much kudos sir.
    looking forward to more.

    • FlightClub 09/15/2015 at 2:51 pm - Reply

      hi dave, no I didn’t notice any balance issues because I fly with a Mobius on the front. you might notice some drifting if you fly without the mobius and in an auto level mode. if you fly rate mode, it doesn’t make much difference.

  22. Richard 09/28/2015 at 4:40 pm - Reply

    Can you put up some baseline PIDS when using cleanflight, my quad is all over the place on the default cleanflight pids.

    • FlightClub 09/28/2015 at 4:55 pm - Reply

      i’ll put some up soon. haven’t had a chance to fly in a while

  23. Lance 09/29/2015 at 11:57 am - Reply

    I built and set up my QAV250 just like yours in the vids and read all the stuff on your site..My quad actually looks just like yours with the exception of red heat shrink on all the wire mesh..Great post and instructs, but some of my radio set up isn’t the same as yours although i’ve tried and tried, it just doesn’t work..My Taranis is the x9d plus with version 2.1.3, and for the RSSI part as per your vid, it just wont work, but thats not the issue i’m having..My issue is while setting up the beeper portion of the naze32 its all fine,after I save to eeprom and remove the usb, unplug the batt, shut off the radio, turn the radio back on, plug the batt back in on the QAV, its like I never programed that portion of the Naze/Beeper..it just beeps away..while its pluged into the program, the beeper works as it should..any suggestions?

    • FlightClub 09/29/2015 at 2:42 pm - Reply

      Check these things for the buzzer: make sure the buzzer is not in the armed position, calibrate the accelerometer, after you plug in the battery make sure the quad is level during the initiation stage (normally around 5 seconds). If the quad is too un-level, the buzzer will keep beeping if you try to arm.

      send me some screenshots of your rssi setup. i’ll need more details to troubleshoot the issue.

  24. Lance 09/29/2015 at 5:11 pm - Reply

    Thanks for the info. Settings were wrong in the v-batt section of cleanflight. Corrected those and now it’s all good. Wheeew!!! I’ll get some screen shots out to you for the RSSI portion that I’m having problems with. One of the problems that I am having is on the radio is the source. There is no RSSI source to scroll to. I don’t know if it’s because of the version I’m using or just because it’s the X9d plus. I’ll get some screen shots out to you soon. Thanks for your quick response

  25. Sherwin Santos 10/06/2015 at 2:42 pm - Reply

    my ARM mode doesn’t work when I use my Taranis switch to arm.

    ARM is set at AUX 1, using switch SD on Taranis. When I flick the switch SD it moves through the different ranges but never turns green.(tab on the left stays Red)…so it doesn’t arm.

    Now(funny thing) when I set up Horizon in AUX2, with Taranis switch SE, it works(tab on left side turns from red to green)

    When I initially set it the first time it DID work…but some reason its not working now…I checked the battery and thats fine.

    What am I doing wrong? PLEASE HELP!!!

    • Dan Blake 10/07/2015 at 10:59 am - Reply

      Did you save your config before testing? The modes will not change color until you click Save even though you can see the pointer in the correct range.

      • Sherwin Santos 10/08/2015 at 12:03 pm - Reply

        I clicked Save, but still not turning Green. Btw, when I first set it up it did work. Don’t know what happened.?? Could it be the Taranis? Again Horizon works though.?! Btw, thanks for you trying to help! Appreciate it!

        • Dan Blake 10/08/2015 at 1:12 pm - Reply

          Looking at the Modes tab, when you flip your mode switch, do you see the yellow pointer slide left and right depending on what position you have your switch is in? When you look at the Receiver tab, do you see the value for the channel that your switch is programmed to change?

          • Dan Blake 10/08/2015 at 1:15 pm

            Sorry, I meat Arm switch. In other words, when you look at the Receiver tab, when you flip the switch that you want to use for Arm, do you see the value for the channel that is Aux1 moving?

          • Sherwin 10/08/2015 at 2:02 pm

            Yes, in Receiver tab, the Aux 1(Arm) moves, when I flick the switch in the three positions.

          • Sherwin 10/08/2015 at 2:33 pm

            Should I erase the drone model in Taranis and start over again?

          • Sherwin 10/13/2015 at 12:46 pm

            So, I tried what you said about arming when it’s level ground and giving it a few minutes, it didn’t work. So I decided to erase the model setup in Taranis and start all over again….but I made it worst…after I created a new model in Taranis set…in Receiver tab, Roll, Pitch, Yaw, Throttle work fine, BUT now my AUX1 and AUX2 are not responding…before it was just AUX1 not working now both are not working…what the hell did I do…???

          • Sherwin 10/13/2015 at 1:18 pm

            Forgot the last response I wrote…once I created Aux1 and Aux2 on Mixer it works with Angle and Horizon BUT same problem as early still can’t get to arm. Is there a way I can send you a video clip so you can see what’s going on???

          • Sherwin 10/13/2015 at 3:11 pm

            I wondering maybe my Threshold setting might be the problem?! Maybe the Naze32 won’t arm because the Taranis is not triggering it…I’m guessing this is the problem…somehow?!

          • Sherwin 10/08/2015 at 1:54 pm

            Yes , to both questions…btw, when I set Horizon, Angle modes there are NO issues, problems. Tabs turn green, no problem. It’s only the Arm mode which doesn’t turn green even after I click Save. I’m thinking it’s an issue with my Taranis at this point. Maybe I turned something off…?!? And in Receiver mode it reads 1500 even when my throttle on Taranis is in the lowest position…I honestly thing it has to do with my Taranis setting that I’m missing or turned off not knowing it

      • Sherwin Santos 10/08/2015 at 12:23 pm - Reply

        Just noticed that with my throttle all the way down on the Taranis, in the Receiver tab in CLEANLIGHT it’s reading 1500(middle). With throttle all the way down it should be reading 900, right?! could that be why it’s not arming?!

    • Lance 10/13/2015 at 2:41 pm - Reply

      Did you adjust the sliders in cleanflight when the switch on your TX is activated ?

      • Lance 10/13/2015 at 4:10 pm - Reply

        Maybe try a different switch. I kinda had the same problem and found that the yellow sliders in cleanflight were not set. I’m not sure how to post pictures on this thread, but if you re watch flight clubs vid on set up and maybe try a different switch it may work. Other thing is updating your Taranis. Did you update?

        • Sherwin 10/13/2015 at 5:33 pm - Reply

          Tried a different switch and the ARM still didn’t work. How do I go about update the Taranis??

          • FlightClub 10/13/2015 at 9:51 pm

            does your quad constantly beep when you plug in the battery? if it does something is wrong and the naze won’t let you arm.

          • Sherwin 10/13/2015 at 10:40 pm

            Yes, it does the 3 beeps after I connect the battery! So what should I do??? Funny thing is it work initially but next day I tried it didnt

          • Sherwin 10/13/2015 at 10:46 pm

            Do you thing it’s because of my Taranis or something in Cleanflight?? Is it a “bad” board or its just not arming because of a setting issue?? How should I go about see which is causing the problem?

          • Lance 10/14/2015 at 9:23 am

            I haD the same problem. Constantly beeping. My problem was the settings for the battery in cleanflight were to low. Readjusted those settings and the beeping stopped. Check the settings for your battery. Don’t forget to click the save button after every adjustment.

          • Sherwin 10/14/2015 at 2:48 pm

            Found the problem, in Taranis my Throttle is not registering in Calibration screen(page 8) in the lowest position its only showing from center/middle position and upper position. When I put the throttle in the lowest position it’s showing as centered on Taranis…now, I would I undo that??

          • Sherwin 10/15/2015 at 2:00 pm

            Taranis is recalibrated, but unfortunately that’s not the problem(I think) it’s still not arming. It’s definitely in CL. I’m using 1300mAh 3s 60c battery. My CL setting is as follows:

            min. Cell Voltage 3.4
            max. Cell Voltage=4.3
            Warning Cell Voltage=3.4
            Voltage Scale=110

            Failsafe Throttle=1000

            Yes, still keep hearing the 3 beeps…after every setting change I make in CL.

            I make a setting change on CL, green light flashing 3 times, then I hear 3 beeps and then green is gone.

            BTW, thanks for all your help!!!

      • Lance 10/13/2015 at 4:14 pm - Reply

        Updated my Taranis to 2.1.3 and I don’t have engine on either. There are some differences in the radios. Watching flight clubs vids as he is setting up for RSSI is different on the x9d and the plus. I asked about it but haven’t had a response yet.

        • Jimd 10/13/2015 at 7:26 pm - Reply

          Yeah, same here. I also noticed things missing in the menu such as the ability to turn off those throttle and switch warnings!

          • FlightClub 10/13/2015 at 9:52 pm

            on the plus you have to go and disable the switch warning on each switch.

  26. Joseph 10/06/2015 at 3:42 pm - Reply


    I followed the method you did on the video, but I am not getting any video feed from the camera only the OSD, the camera is blank. (Just in case you are wondering, yes the lens cap was off). Please advise

    • FlightClub 10/06/2015 at 3:45 pm - Reply

      did you solder the jumper for your camera on the back of the osdoge board? you have to select 12v or 5v.

      • Joseph 10/07/2015 at 3:11 am - Reply

        Yes I did. I used my multimeter and it shows 12v coming from the board and there was continuity from the OSDOGE (Power, Ground and Signal wire leading to my camera. I even my other Quads camera to check if the camera was broken. That camera also did not work.

        • FlightClub 10/07/2015 at 9:51 am - Reply

          what camera/vtx are you using? what do you have the jumpers set to?

  27. Joseph 10/07/2015 at 12:49 pm - Reply

    Same as your build the Sony Board Cam and the ImmersionRC 600mw TX. Jumpers are set to Bat Select 12V Regulated (I run 4S). VTX 12V, Camera 12V. The only jumper I had to set was just the VTX the rest came from the factory.

    • FlightClub 10/07/2015 at 1:39 pm - Reply

      is the camera connected on the cam part and vtx connected to the vtx part on the osdoge? sorry it’s so hard to diagnose these things without actually having it in front of me.

  28. Joseph 10/07/2015 at 2:15 pm - Reply

    It’s good, thanks for your help so far, but yea they are connected to the right location

    • FlightClub 10/07/2015 at 3:22 pm - Reply

      worth a try but make sure both the camera and vtx are fully functional. ran into this situation where the camera they were using was bad. they could see the osd overlay but when they connected the camera there was no picture. swapped out the camera and everything worked.

  29. Lance 10/08/2015 at 2:21 pm - Reply

    I had the same problem when arming, and it took a couple of minutes to figure it out. And this is on my qav250 set up the same as flight club. I found that when you plug the battery in while holding your quad and the quad not being level, it will not arm. So now I plug the battery in and set the quad down on level or as close to level as it can be and wait a few seconds. You should hear 3 beeps and then the green light will stop flashing and turn off. Switch to arm and green light will come on and quad is armed. Hope this helped

  30. jimd 10/09/2015 at 9:22 pm - Reply

    What adjustments should I make to your directions to build a QAV210?

    • FlightClub 10/09/2015 at 10:44 pm - Reply

      what do you mean? PIDs?

      • Jimf 10/09/2015 at 11:14 pm - Reply

        No, I was referring to your building directions, placement of parts, etc. For example, can the esc’s and motors still be soldered in the position?

      • Jimd 10/09/2015 at 11:34 pm - Reply

        Also, where do I go to purchase spare parts such as nylon spacers, etc?

    • Dan Blake 10/10/2015 at 10:39 am - Reply

      I just finished my QAV210 and build went really well. Knowing that the OSDoge stack would be a tight fit, I had back ordered a Power OSD. Unfortunately, it didn’t arrive in time for the build. So, I used the included Lumenier PDB and soldered on a Polulu 5v step down. This made the setup is pretty simple.

      I used 4 x JST males:
      – 5v pads from PDB to the Naze32 #6 ESC +/- pins to power the Naze.
      – 12v pads to a Lumenier 200mw VTX Race Band, which sends 5v to a RunCam.
      – co-soldered on the PDBs battery terminal to the Naze32 VBat pins to enable low battery buzzer.
      – buzzer to Naze32 buzzer pins.

      Motors: Cobra 2204/1960kv (needed to use them on a project. Great motors!)
      ESC: RG20
      Props: DAL 5045 BN

      Thrust to weight ratio: 5.33:1

      The best thing that I did in the whole build was flash the Naze32 (Rev 5) with BorisB’s Betaflight. It made tuning a breeze Let me say more correctly that it hasn’t needed tuning at all! I’ve been using the default PIDs on the PID controller 1, with some increases in rates and expo for personal preference. With 4S/70C packs and 5045 BN props, I am getting over 5:30 mins of freestyle flight time. Racing would probably be closer to 4:30 mins, but that is plenty for 5 lap races. The results were so good that I flashed my QAV250 and ZMR250.

      Betaflight article

      This thing is a blast to fly and makes my 250 quads feel a bit sluggish.



      • Jimd 10/11/2015 at 6:03 am - Reply

        Thanks Dan, I hope to one day understand everything you explained but I have to admit most of that is over my head right now. I am new to the hobby and completely amazed at the depth of understanding that people like yourself have of the technical aspects of building quads. Is there any specific reading material that you can recommend to help me get up to speed ?

        • Dan Blake 10/14/2015 at 11:21 am - Reply

          This site and its videos are a great source of info, as are those on the RCModelReviews and FliteTest YouTube channels. Frankly and for better or worse, hardly anything in this hobby is plug and play. I began building multirotors in 2012, but I learn something new almost every week. Joining a local FPV flying and racing club earlier this year increased my knowledge exponentially. Most folks flying multirotor FPV are really willing to help and share ideas on builds. I fly with the same guys every Weds after work, and race twice a month. Don’t worry about being a newb, because everyone was one at one point. Lastly, get a sim, if you are not already flying one.

          • Jimd 10/14/2015 at 1:05 pm

            Thanks for the advice and encouragement! Yes, I’m using a sim called FPV Freerider – it’s only $5 but I believe it does a great job simulating the FPV experience.

  31. Sherwin Santos 10/13/2015 at 1:10 pm - Reply

    my Taranis doesn’t have the “engine on” track, why?

  32. Ryan 10/22/2015 at 9:42 am - Reply

    FANTASTIC. I’m learning alot from your posts, have watched your videos several times. Very informational and speeds up the learning like you have no idea. I’m older, I grew up with RC cars, racing and had a 1st gen RC10 and more and I remember as a kid having to figure out all theae sorts of things on my own. I wish this kind of info was around in the 80s! Watching your videos brings me back and I cannot wait to build one. Before finding you, I was just gonna buy a DJI or something from Horizon, not anymore, building is alot of fun. For now I just fly the cheap toys which are fun too. Thank you again for all this ready made knowledge.I hope everyone understands how valuable it is. Trial and error is expensive and time consuming. Thanks again, you’re doing a great job.

    • FlightClub 10/22/2015 at 10:57 am - Reply

      Thanks Ryan! We probably grew up around the same time. I had a RC10 and the Kyosho Ultima. Brings back memories! FPV was just a dream back then, it’s now reality! Crazy huh?

  33. Lance 10/22/2015 at 11:27 am - Reply

    I haven’t figured out how to get RSSI on my osd with the Taranis plus. I followed all your instructions. The Taranis plus has a slightly different set up screen. When I scroll to input RSSI, it isn’t there. Any suggestions.? Taranis is updated to 2.1.3

  34. jimd 10/24/2015 at 10:01 pm - Reply

    I have the Taranis X9D, but it’s the “Plus”, running the latest OpenTx 2.1.3, and often times my menus differ from yours. Could you please help me find details on setting up the RSSI? I don’t have that as a ‘Play Value’ option on the Special Functions page.

    Also, how do I go about getting the OSD to show me a battery indicator (or at least voltage)?


    • jimd 10/24/2015 at 10:03 pm - Reply

      Sorry, I just realized ‘Lance’ submitted the question about the RSSI already!

    • FlightClub 10/25/2015 at 9:43 am - Reply

      I’m not sure why yours doesn’t show it. I just set up a quad for a customer using the Taranis x9d plus and everything worked fine.

      Did you read the OSDoge post? It shows you how to set up the osd to display voltage

      • jimd 10/25/2015 at 9:51 am - Reply

        Someone on a forum was also describing how there Taranis menus differed, and specifically, the missing RSSI option. They said the solution was to write firmware without the “Check hardware compatibility” option. I’ll give that a try and let you know.

        • FlightClub 10/25/2015 at 9:27 pm - Reply

          That’s strange, I just programmed a brand new Taranis x9d plus and everything worked fine.

          • Jimd 10/25/2015 at 9:44 pm

            What version firmware? I think starting with 2.1 they may have changed the RSSI to “Telemetry”… but not sure what to do from there.,,

          • FlightClub 10/25/2015 at 10:46 pm

            the x9d plus come with

  35. Lance 10/25/2015 at 10:34 pm - Reply

    What was the taranis update to ?

    • Lance 10/25/2015 at 10:59 pm - Reply

      I’ll try a different version and see if things change. Maybe even go to and see if I can get RSSI to come up in the source

      • Lance 10/26/2015 at 11:54 am - Reply

        Ok. It’s fixed. I flashed the firmware on my Taranis back to 2.0.17 and it worked. When I first got my Taranis, I updated to the latest firmware which was 2.1.3. And there was not a RSSI in the source section. So it seems like they changed something in the update. 2.0.17 works, but I don’t know what other update changed things. Maybe something to look into. Thanks for all the info, I’m glad the info on this site is here, we would be lost. Well I would be lost. Thanks again

        • FlightClub 10/26/2015 at 12:06 pm - Reply

          thanks for this info, I didn’t know they changed it in 2.1.3.

  36. jimd 10/26/2015 at 11:35 am - Reply

    I read that with the newer OpenTX (2.1+) they overhauled the way telemetry works. http://openrcforums.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=45&t=6887

  37. Lance 10/26/2015 at 12:24 pm - Reply

    Great info Jim, just when I thought I had it figured out..LoL..ill look more into this, it seem really cool

  38. Pedro Fonseca 10/27/2015 at 9:21 pm - Reply

    Hello, i bought a naze32 Rev6 so i have to use it with baseflight, it wont let me calibrate my esc’s correctly, everything works fine when i try them with baseflight, all of the motors start spinning at the same rate, but when i turn on the Taranis 2 of my motors start speeding up more than the other two, do you have any idea of what might be going on?


    • FlightClub 10/27/2015 at 10:23 pm - Reply

      don’t worry about that. as long as the motor spin the same time when using the slider on the baseflight it’s fine. it will never spin up at the same time using the transmitter.

    • Dan Blake 10/27/2015 at 10:39 pm - Reply

      Rev6 works awesome with Betaflight and the CF configurator. Download here: http://bit.ly/1N6K6Of Install video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A7apYeGDczU

      • FlightClub 10/28/2015 at 9:40 am - Reply

        thanks dan, this betaflight looks interesting. I’m going to try this in my next quad.

  39. Mike Reiber - AMA 819102 11/05/2015 at 4:42 pm - Reply

    Looks great. How much $. All set up tx/rx fpv – RTF, Thanks for your time Mike

  40. David Manni 11/11/2015 at 3:27 pm - Reply

    I am a newbie and really appreciating the info. I searched for a low voltage alarm and keep getting a 4 pin voltage level warning. Can you point me to a proper buzzer? Also I am still waiting for the mounting bracket for the Sony camera please. Thanks again for the great material!

    • FlightClub 11/11/2015 at 4:17 pm - Reply

      I’ll send you an email.

  41. Charles 11/12/2015 at 9:32 am - Reply

    PIDs? is that vid in the making? or anyway i can copy the PIDs ?

  42. Chin 11/22/2015 at 7:03 am - Reply

    Hi Flightclub,

    This is a very informative video for newbie. It will be great if you are going to do a video on SP Racing F3 Flight Controller in the future. Again, thanks.

  43. Arya 11/23/2015 at 7:54 pm - Reply

    Hi I’ve been building an emax and I am using the same parts you were except clean flight instead of base flight and I’ve built a QAV250 before (that crashed and died) and I’ve been trying to use the reciever tab on clean flight but it won’t respond to the movements on my taranis and I’ve already done everything in your videos could you think of anything I might have done wrong?

    • FlightClub 11/23/2015 at 11:30 pm - Reply

      did you bind it to your rx yet?

  44. Arya 11/24/2015 at 1:39 pm - Reply

    What is the rx, sorry

  45. Arya 11/24/2015 at 1:41 pm - Reply

    Also I don’t have one motor plugged in because I was given a faulty one and waiting for another could that be the problem

  46. Arya 11/24/2015 at 1:44 pm - Reply

    Actually yes I have the rx set to ppm which is what I’m using on the D4r ii

    • FlightClub 11/24/2015 at 1:49 pm - Reply

      did you bind the d4r-ii yet? when you say it’s not responding to your movements do you mean it’s moving but not like your tx or no movement at all?

  47. Arya 11/24/2015 at 1:49 pm - Reply

    I fixed it thanks it was the rx

  48. jimd 11/27/2015 at 9:43 am - Reply

    My QAV210 was flying great, but after a minor crash one motor would only spin back and forth while the ESC got hot. I changed out the ESC and the Naze board (went from rev5 to rev6 because that’s what was in stock). Everything thing seems setup fine accept in Cleanflight I’m getting no reading on any sensors. No errors, in fact, I can click the “Calibrate Accelerometer” button and it says it ‘finished’, but the quad avatar does not move at all when I pick up the quad. I tried flashing the firmware to the last three versions – back to 1.9.0 NAZE 2015-6-2 0:41 (stable). Any ideas? Thanks!

    • FlightClub 11/27/2015 at 10:38 am - Reply

      the most common cause of twitching hot motor is a motor screw touching the windings.

      so you can’t get any reactions on the new naze board? will the naze connected by itself (out of the frame) move the avatar?

    • Dan Blake 11/27/2015 at 7:40 pm - Reply

      Also check your ESC to motor solders. I had one doing the same thing, hot and not turn complete. Found that the center wire had broken at the solder point.

      • JimD 11/28/2015 at 6:08 am - Reply

        It took me a solid 8 hours but I got it working. The solder joints looked okay so I swapped out the ESC and FC (the Naze32 r5 I had in there had some previous injury anyway). I could only find a Naze r6 in stock, but found that I couldn’t use Cleanflight with it (not yet supported). I switched to Baseflight and it flew like crap because I was trying to use the same looptime and PIDs. After tweaking settings it’s running okay – not as good as it originally was, but I’ll keep tweaking. Thankful for all the great tips from the community!

        • FlightClub 11/28/2015 at 11:25 pm - Reply

          Jim, have you tried Betaflight? It uses cleanflight and even stock pids flies great

          • JimD 11/29/2015 at 12:09 am

            I am curious to try Betaflight next, but for now I went back to Cleanflght. It turns out that the 1.10 candidate release version supports the new Naze v6. Now am able to go back to the PID settings that were working for me.

  49. David 11/28/2015 at 4:59 am - Reply

    I saw in an email that a video was out for the 3 part of the series. I have not been able to find it on the sight. Can you provide a link?

  50. David 11/28/2015 at 5:01 am - Reply

    I got the Dominator V3 headset and it doesn’t have a connection for the SpiroNet antenna. Is a a receiver card necessary to talk to the RC Immersion Raceband transmitter?

    • FlightClub 11/28/2015 at 11:25 pm - Reply

      David, the Dominator series don’t come with the RX module. It needs to be purchased separately.

  51. David 11/30/2015 at 7:44 am - Reply

    I finally got the OSDDoge and the Naze32 flashed and I can connect to the Naze32 with clean flight. I am a little worried though because my Naze32 did not look the same as the videos. I assume I have a different version. I got the pins to line up and I connected the OSDoge. But now my usb connection port is the the left and the Naze32 connection port is facing back. I assume that means I will need to set an offset on my Yaw? Any suggestions on the correct YAW offset if the usb connection port for the Naze32 Acro is facing rearward? I am having a blast it was very rewarding to finally get the communications to the boards working. I see a light at the end of the tunnel.

    • FlightClub 11/30/2015 at 11:27 am - Reply

      I assume you have a rev6 Naze32. If you got it from my store recently, it will be rev6. If the USB is facing the rear, adjust the YAW correction to 90. Enjoy.

      • David 11/30/2015 at 6:43 pm - Reply

        You had your port on the right and set your yaw to 90, so I assume since mine is at the rear of the craft I would use 180? Also the Cleanflight I have is clean flight configurator 1.1.0 and in its modes there was no Angle or Horizon. How important do you think these settings are?

  52. David 11/30/2015 at 6:55 pm - Reply

    When running the motor test are you connecting the usb connector to the OSDoge? When connected to the Naze instead of music like described I only get a loud beeping and no activity on my Motors.

  53. Larry 12/01/2015 at 5:08 pm - Reply

    I only wished that I had found your 2 videos before I started building my QAV, they almost make me look forward to building a second one.

    • FlightClub 12/01/2015 at 5:26 pm - Reply

      Build a QAV210. That will be my next build video 🙂

  54. CHIN EANG 12/02/2015 at 8:19 am - Reply


    I am running SP3 control board on my QAV250 using Spektrum DX6.

    When I armed the mtor without touching/moving the Throttle stick .. The 4 motors already started to spin slowly. I couldn’t figure out what to do, except I reduced the “Minimum Throttle” to 1000 in the configuration via Cleanflight to fix the problem. I am not sure whether this is the right way to fix the problem or I should do it from my DX6. It will be great if you could kindly advise or point out the direction. Million Thanks

  55. Sam 12/23/2015 at 10:11 am - Reply

    I just wanted to let you know how clean and awesome your tutorials are! really appreciate you taking the time to make these, Will be buying the OSdoge from your store as soon as they come back in stock, About to build my QAV210 and would love to see a tutorial on a 210 mainly for where you place things because of the size! Thanks again! Awesome work!

    • FlightClub 12/23/2015 at 11:02 am - Reply

      Hi Sam, thanks! I’m working on the QAV210 build video right now. Of course it will be a nice and clean build with custom 3D parts 🙂

  56. Paul 12/28/2015 at 11:11 pm - Reply

    First, I’d like to thank you for the awesome and very detailed videos and blog. I finally got my qav250 built without the FPV portion for now. My only issue is that I don’t get any response from the motors until the throttle on my radio is at 50%. Anything below that and I don’t get any responses from the motors. Is this happening to anyone else?

    • FlightClub 12/29/2015 at 10:43 am - Reply

      Did you calibrate the ESCs in cleanflight?

  57. Paul 12/29/2015 at 12:08 am - Reply

    Please disregard. I had to calibrate my Taranis x9d. All seems good now. Thanks again for all the tutorials.

  58. Kale 12/30/2015 at 9:52 am - Reply

    I ordered pretty much everything i need to build one of these from you! Im really pumped to start the build. Any idea when you will have more OSDoge boards in stock??

    • FlightClub 12/30/2015 at 10:44 am - Reply

      thanks! they should be in today 🙂

  59. neil.typhoon 12/31/2015 at 12:43 am - Reply

    PID tuning per your setup? Video please?

  60. Zaniix 01/01/2016 at 3:23 pm - Reply

    Any suggestions for a build that would get more flight time? I am building more of a trainer for learning FPV and do not mind sacrificing some performance for more flight time per batt. Thanks!!

    • FlightClub 01/02/2016 at 12:50 pm - Reply

      You can run 2300kv motors with 5030 props on a 1550mah battery. That should give you 8-9 min of flight flying.

  61. Derek 01/11/2016 at 7:32 pm - Reply

    Is there anyway I can get or see your PIDs for this build? Finished it recently and it flies great in Horizon mode, Acro is a bit shakey. Thanks for the help! im having a hard time tuning

    • FlightClub 01/11/2016 at 10:08 pm - Reply

      I will cover this in my next video. Should be up next week or so.

  62. Tyler 02/12/2016 at 10:07 am - Reply

    I have come across a couple companies offering and ESC 4 in 1, do you think this could potentially clean up this build even more? just a thought. I’m going to try to build with one, seems like most of them have a BEC would this cause an issue using the OSDoge?

    • FlightClub 02/12/2016 at 1:08 pm - Reply

      you can still use them. just don’t use the BEC off the OSDoge. let me know how it goes.

  63. David 02/13/2016 at 8:31 pm - Reply

    I’m building a 250 with components and techniques identical to your 3 videos. I’m trying to calibrate the ESC’s, but when I get to the step where I plug in the battery after running the slider up in CF, the software locks up every time…on three different computers. Any ideas?

    • Jimd 02/14/2016 at 6:47 am - Reply

      Same here. I think it’s a limitation of CF. I get around it by going to the tab I want first, then plugging in the battery.

      • FlightClub 02/14/2016 at 12:46 pm - Reply

        sometimes I have to open cleanflight first, plug in the naze after, then the silabs port will show in the drop down.

  64. David 02/14/2016 at 7:47 am - Reply

    Disregard. The switch on the OSDOGE was not in the correct position. I will add these comments for future builders that are troubleshooting: Not all USB cords will work. The one I initially tried that came with my WD hard drive would not allow the Naze to connect. Also, I could not initially flash my Naze with cleanflight. I found instructions and videos on the web that tell you how to hold a jumper on the Naze’s “boot” pads when plugging the USB in. You want to see a single blue light upon power up when doing this. I didn’t see this anywhere in the setup video, so if I missed it, my apologies.

  65. Sean Sarsfield 02/15/2016 at 4:45 pm - Reply

    Trying to connect to CleanFlight for the first time with a Naze Acro. When I try to Flash Firmware, it kicks out error message “No response from the boot loader, programing FAILED”. Only solution I’ve found on the internet is to try jumpering the “boot” pads on the Naze. Think this would do it? Is the only way to do that soldering the pads, and then removing the solder once flashed and connected?

    • David 02/16/2016 at 9:58 am - Reply

      Had the same deal three day ago. Try more than one brand of USB cable. Just because your current USB cable allows the Naze to be powered does not mean it will allow data transfer!

      You can jump those two boot pads by pressing a looped piece of scrap wire down on them while you plug the USB into the computer at the same time. You know it worked if the Naze powers up with ONLY a single blue light. This takes a few tries and you need three hands or a helper. Once you have the single blue light you can remove the jumper wire and flash the board, IF your USB cable is deemed worthy.

      Did I mention that not all USB cables will work??

      • Sean Sarsfield 02/16/2016 at 1:34 pm - Reply

        Great, thanks. I was using the only micro USB I had on hand (Charge cable for a kindle). New one from Amazon arrives tomorrow, we’ll see if that helps!

    • Lance 02/16/2016 at 10:19 am - Reply

      I had the same problem when I tried to flash mine. It ended up being the usb cable. Not all cables work the same, try a different cable first

      • Jimd 02/16/2016 at 1:16 pm - Reply

        Yeah, I too had a hell of a time connecting to the OSDoge GUI. I tried multiple versions of Java, and the GUI. I finally got an old version of the GUI to conncet, but got error messages when trying to do updates. I hobbled through the errors and got mixed results. I never tried different USB cables – I’ll give that a try, although I would expect the cable would give an “all or nothing” result.

  66. Borris 02/16/2016 at 9:04 am - Reply

    Built my Qav up with all your recommended parts including the tarranis and d4r receiver. Used the 4 cell option. Everything flies really smooth in acro mode. Had a few issues though I was wondering if anybody has encountered and found a fix. One thing is that I am unable to properly download the usb uart bridge file. I am assuming this is to allow the osdoge to be recognized in the gui osd interface. I am using a pc with windows 10. Currently the osd only comes up on ‘com 4’ in the interface under the port com. When I try to read the osd, nothing happens, even though the boxes turn green. I notice on your build video its not labeled the same…

  67. Borris 02/16/2016 at 9:10 am - Reply

    Keep messing with it. I got that message at first. I believe I had to disconnect the naze and reconnect after I downloaded the file.

  68. Sean 02/19/2016 at 7:22 pm - Reply

    I’ve tried a new cable. No luck. I’ve tried shorting boot pads and adjusting all the flash options, no luck. I’ve unplugged everything from the naze. I’ve tried flashing it with base flight, which gives the same error of “No response from the boot loader, programing failed”. I’ve tried a different USB port. Every suggestion for resolution that I can find is not helping! Any other ideas?

  69. Steve from NY 02/20/2016 at 9:29 am - Reply

    A+ write up Mike! Once again you’ve manage to improve upon the build through your experiences and show everyone how to professionally build this quad.

  70. Sean Sarsfield 02/20/2016 at 9:21 pm - Reply

    Eureka! That did it! Downloaded that driver and flashed the Naze without any trouble. Then connected right up to clean flight! Thanks a million!

    • FlightClub 02/20/2016 at 10:56 pm - Reply

      nice! now go fly!

  71. Andrew Whittle 02/21/2016 at 11:31 am - Reply

    I had the same problem flashing the Naze32. It turns out that after you install the USB drivers, you will be able to flash the NAZE but cannot connect to it until you restart your computer. No joke! I tried everything else and then just restarted the comp and it worked 100%.

  72. Don 02/21/2016 at 10:06 pm - Reply

    I have followed all of your instructions as far as assembling the quad. The quad hovers fine in acre mode but once i enable angle or horizon the quad want to make a hard right on takeoff. I adjusted the ACC and am still having this issue. All ESCs have been calibrated as well. I have tried searching for a solution but I haven’t been able to correct it. Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you!

  73. David 02/22/2016 at 11:53 am - Reply

    I’m having a similar problem. Shortly after liftoff, the quad starts to pull left. The left bank increases in intensity until I land. The artificial horizon on the OSD similarly reflects this problem: While holding a level hover, the OSD horizon shows an increasingly severe bank angle. Combo is a 250 with a Naze/OSD stack soldered by FlightClub. Brand new with no crashes.

    • FlightClub 06/23/2016 at 9:50 am - Reply

      there is too much vibration coming from the frame. mount the stack on rubber o-rings and it will fix the problem

  74. Joel 02/24/2016 at 1:55 pm - Reply

    Having the same problem, not seeing a RSSI option to scroll to. Taranis Plus also.

    • FlightClub 02/24/2016 at 5:07 pm - Reply

      Hi Joel, did you see the note about scrolling to the “discover new sensors?”

    • Andrew 02/27/2016 at 10:36 pm - Reply

      Yeah, i had the same problem before i “discovered new sensors”. Make sure you quad and radio are on and connected. Then turn on Discover new Sensors and you will see RSSI. After that, it matches the videos. Mine works great.

  75. Wayne 02/27/2016 at 11:31 am - Reply

    Any chance of uploading the Taranis files for setting up the QAV250 like you did for the 210?

  76. Andrew 02/27/2016 at 10:35 pm - Reply

    Love this kit. Finally published my build video. It is 10 minutes and a little boring but I figured i would post it here anyway. If you are into this sort of thing, hope you enjoy it.


  77. Andrew Whittle 02/28/2016 at 2:53 am - Reply

    And maiden flight (fair warning, it is 30 minutes because editing it was too much work ) 🙂


  78. Fredld 02/29/2016 at 10:29 am - Reply


  79. Sean Sarsfield 03/06/2016 at 8:58 pm - Reply

    What equipment/hardware do you recommend to create that 3 pin connector that plugs the vid Tx into the OSDoge? Looks like I’ll need something to create those little things that clip into the black plastic connectors.

  80. Andrew 03/12/2016 at 8:42 pm - Reply

    Not sure if anybody here can help but something strange happened while flying today. On my very first flight of the day, very early on i felt like the controls were “sluggish”. I would move the stick and it would not respond then i would try it again and it would. Then all of a sudden, the drone just dropped out of the sky. The other camera on board showed that the drone started beeping quickly too. Here is a video of it happening with the OSD. I thought i was just getting interference but since we are on 2.4, is that even possible? Do you know what triggers the OSD to display the “Stats Screen”? As you can see from the video just before it cuts out, it thinks the flight is over. Could it be a signal loss or maybe a loose power connection to the Naze? Could it be interference? I was at an RC park.


  81. Mike Schulz 03/14/2016 at 8:38 am - Reply

    I just completed my QAV250 build and I must it is an awesome kit! One note on wiring the esc’s to the motors. I followed the update video and crossed esc 1 and 4, when I checked the rotation in clean flight all 4 motors spin up the wrong direction. I took it back apart and switched the wires crossing 2 and 3 and not crossing 1 and 4. All spin up the correct direction. Not sure what to say about this but the new esc’s do have solder pads on either side (top and bottom) not sure if that is the difference just an observation.

    • FlightClub 03/15/2016 at 12:19 am - Reply

      Hi Mike, yes the side that faces up on the XM20a make a difference. The way the ESC are facing on the QAV210 build are the way it should be for that diagram to be correct. details details…haha

  82. Steve Carter 03/19/2016 at 9:45 pm - Reply

    Ive been running cobra 2300 motors on the blheli 12amp escs, with a 4cell tattu battery on 5030 gemfan props. does that sound like a good prop choice for smooth flying and some mild acro without over working the escs? im wondering what the difference with the bullnose and triblade and 5040s? I want to buy a few sets of each to test with but i dont want to overwork the escs or motors.

    • FlightClub 03/20/2016 at 10:07 am - Reply

      i’ve run bullnose and triblades on that setup and haven’t had any issues. this combo on triblades is insanely powerful and fun!

  83. Mark Johnson 03/26/2016 at 8:32 pm - Reply

    My RSSI on my taranis does not match the OSD RSSI. Setup exactly as the video. Did I miss something? It’s off by 20dB

    • Mark Johnson 03/27/2016 at 9:34 am - Reply

      correction. It’s stuck at 100 on the OSD. Cleanflight is dead on real time. Syncs up perfectly with the radio in cleanflight. So the Naze32 reads it. It’s like it doesn’t pass it on to the OSDoge.

      • FlightClub 03/27/2016 at 1:24 pm - Reply

        if it reads 100 all the time something is not configured correctly. check the osdoge setup to make sure everything is setup EXACTLY like the post. if you miss one tiny step the rssi will not work correctly.

        • Mark Johnson 04/04/2016 at 9:52 pm - Reply

          Got it figured out. Found this in some comments on a thread elsewhere. OSD is now spot on with my taranis.

          ” I figured out why the RSSI values were locked at 100% on the minimosd. I am using MWOSD 1.6, BetaFlight 2.5.3 and changing the RSSI max setting in MWOSD to 1023 fixed it. So not 255, it should be 1023. “

  84. Stiglitz 04/22/2016 at 9:01 am - Reply

    I bought one of these from you (IMMERSIONRC VTX SHELL FOR QAV250) and wonder how you best tiewrap it to the frame.

    • FlightClub 04/22/2016 at 10:20 am - Reply

      use a 5″ zip tie and use the holes on the bottom of the brace and loop it through the cf top plate. thanks!

  85. Ron 04/28/2016 at 6:31 pm - Reply

    Hi is there any chance you can post a mini video or guide on setting up the stack of the new osd Doge 1.5 and the new Arco Naze 1.6? I notice both boards got updating. Ty

    • FlightClub 04/29/2016 at 9:12 am - Reply

      Yes, I’m working on it right now.

  86. Ron 05/01/2016 at 8:08 am - Reply


  87. Edward Waldrop 05/31/2016 at 2:17 pm - Reply

    Under protection:

    Motor Guards is misspelled

  88. Kit Nugent 07/13/2016 at 12:35 pm - Reply

    I cannot figure out what is happening with my QVA250, the throttles will work and then they do not, when connected to cleanflight in the receiver tab it show that the receiver is bound(green light on X8R) and slider follows throttle movement but motors will not spin. Everything on the motor tab work correctly and motors will spin up when using the mater slider.

  89. oliver r 07/14/2016 at 10:39 am - Reply

    Sorry if this has been answered before…Do you have any suggestions on what looptime to use?

  90. Robert McClurg 08/01/2016 at 8:11 pm - Reply

    Maybe it says elsewhere in the questions asked here, but what size braided wire loom do you use and where can you get it?

  91. MW 08/09/2016 at 11:23 pm - Reply

    Just a not that on the newest QAV250 frames, there are no slots cutout for the zip ties over the D4RII mount. I used double-sided foam tape instead.

    The never frames removed some cutouts on and near the arms, I suppose to strengthen them (my old QAV250 frame cracked where the arm met the frame) and added some additional material to reinforce the “armpits” where the arms join the body.

  92. Barry 09/30/2016 at 9:33 pm - Reply

    Hello, where is Part 3? I’ve bought some stuff from you man you owe me!!! 🙂 🙂

    • FlightClub 10/01/2016 at 9:04 pm - Reply

      part 3? What else do you need to know?

  93. Swaran 12/06/2016 at 8:49 am - Reply

    Can you tell me how can I 3d print these parts myself?Are there any files or something?
    Also can I connect the frsky d4 ii to a flysky 24.ghz 6 ch or instead just the receiver given by flysky?Thanks

  94. Steve 07/13/2017 at 7:06 pm - Reply

    First of all, thank you for taking the time to put together these excellent tutorials. Secondly, love some of the 3D printed parts I purchased. Fit perfectly. Finally I do have a question regarding setup in Cleanflight. I’m still waiting for my transmitter but I wondered if that’s necessary in order to calibrate the ESC’s and test the motors in Cleanflight?

    After making a few of the preliminary settings, skipping the transmitter calibration, I proceeded to the motor section. After enabling “test” mode I moved the slider all the way to the top. I connected the battery, the ESC played their little tune followed by a few beeps. When it finished I moved the slider down to the bottom but there were no subsequent beeps or music. I disconnected the battery then reconnected with the slider in the down position. Heard the little tune play and when it stopped I moved the slider upward but nothing happened. Motors did not spin at all.

    So should I start double checking all my connections, am I doing something wrong or do I need to wait for my transmitter and connect the FrSky D4r?

    • Mike Tseng 07/14/2017 at 10:57 am - Reply

      it depends on the parts you are using now. most of the newer electronics can do dshot600. if you can, use it. no esc calibration is needed since it’s a digital protocol.

      • Steve 07/14/2017 at 9:01 pm - Reply

        Mike –
        Thanks for the prompt reply. I’m using the DYS BL20A’s as recommended but as it turns out I figured out my problem. Despite your excellent tutorials and videos there is no accounting for human stupidity. As it turns out I forgot to connect the power cable from the PDB to the osDoge. So although the battery was powering the ESCs there was no power to the Naze32. As soon as I connected that the motors spun right up in Cleanflight.

        Concerning your comment about Dshot600…can the BL20A’s be flashed with that? And if so, would it just be best to do so?

        Thank you again for your reply as well as your excellent web site. Any idea when you might be receiving a new batch of Sony TVL600’s? That’s the last piece I need for my build.

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