Home » Build » FatShark Power Switch : On/Off Switch for your Fatsharks

FatShark Power Switch : On/Off Switch for your Fatsharks

FatShark Dominator Power Switch Mod
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I love my FatShark Dominator V3.  One thing I don’t like about them is fumbling around to plug in the power cable.  I’ve always wanted to add a Fatshark power switch but never got around to doing it until now.  Adding a power switch makes them so much more enjoyable to use.

fatshark power switchParts used in this build

*Disclaimer: Do this mod at your own risk.  We are not responsible for any damage done to your equipment.

FatShark Power Switch Modification

Open the cover.  Remove the two screws and loosen the center screw.  Remove the power board module and unplug the wire harness.

Use a 5/8″ drill bit to drill a hole in the cover.  On the inside of the cover there is a circle injection mark.  Use that circle to mark where to drill.  If you put it dead center, the switch will line up perfectly inside the goggles.

fatshark power switch

Cut the tab on the back of the plug.

fatshark power switch

Cut three wire lengths

  1. Red – 40mm
  2. Black – 57mm
  3. Green – 58mm

fatshark power switch

Trim the tabs on the back of the button so it will fit inside the goggles.  Put the switch through the hole of the cover.

fatshark power switch

Solder up the wires like this.  This wiring diagram is setup to have the LED on the power switch to turn on only when the power is on.  This schematic is for this power button.

fatshark power switch

Note the green wire is soldered to the center tab and the bottom tab.

fatshark power switch

fatshark power switchfatshark power switch

Put everything back in the goggles in reverse order and you’re done.  Now you can leave your goggle battery plugged in and it will only turn on when you hit the Fatshark power switch.  The LED will be lit when the power is on.  Go fly!

fatshark power switch

If you found this post helpful, it would be super cool if you purchased the components from my store or purchase items from my Amazon links.  These posts are expensive and take a loooong time to make so the purchases make it possible for me to keep making them.  Thanks in advance, I greatly appreciate it 🙂

2018-01-06T06:40:50+00:00 Build, Quick Tips|31 Comments


  1. James 06/16/2017 at 12:01 pm - Reply

    Is this the same process for the Fatshark HD2?

    • Mike Tseng 11/27/2017 at 9:14 pm - Reply

      Yes it is!

  2. Pauley 06/16/2017 at 3:14 pm - Reply

    Very nice Mike ! I cant find the switch in your shop ?

  3. Matt 06/19/2017 at 9:35 pm - Reply

    Does the wire need to be 22 AWG?

  4. zhakryn 06/25/2017 at 4:02 am - Reply

    Hello ,do you know if it also work for the HD3,thx?

  5. Dave Zaitz 06/25/2017 at 12:26 pm - Reply

    Great modification, I did it in about an hour, I wasn’t able to find a blue switch on Amazon so I chose the green one which wires a little different, I first wired it by the same locations you showed and no power to the switch, I then switched the location of the red wire to the other location and it worked. I think you have to look for the small markings on the switch that have a “C” on it.

    Thanks Again!

  6. Eric 07/23/2017 at 7:40 pm - Reply

    Kind of off topic but I have been flying FPV with an older Headplay and then for the last couple years the Fatshark Attitude V2 (3?) Anyway, a set of Dominators with all these extra antenna’s would represent a BIG investment! So I wonder if the quality of video and reception would be any better, or better enough to justify that kind of expense… Darn, I could have cared less until I saw your mods Mike, but now I have Dominator envy…
    Anyone with experience care to comment?

  7. Saquan 08/22/2017 at 9:24 am - Reply

    What size the wire gauge??

  8. AL Villalobos 09/14/2017 at 10:51 pm - Reply

    will this work with the HD3’s

    • Mike Tseng 09/15/2017 at 10:06 am - Reply

      sorry i’m still rocking the standard v3 so I don’t know if it will work with HD3.

    • Kelly Storm 11/10/2017 at 1:38 pm - Reply

      Used motor wire which I think is 22awg and it worked on HD3…

      Thanks Mike

      • Mike Tseng 11/10/2017 at 4:23 pm - Reply

        awesome! glad it worked out

  9. Jeremy 09/26/2017 at 9:30 pm - Reply

    What gauge wire did you use?

  10. Eric 01/16/2018 at 11:06 pm - Reply

    I decided to take the plunge and ordered a set of the Core HD3’s. I’ll be installing the Furious Diversity V3.5 in these and hopefully this switch, I’ll let you know if it works.

    • Mike Tseng 01/17/2018 at 9:33 am - Reply

      Ive seen a lot of readers do this mod to the HD3’s so it shouldn’t be an issue. thanks!

  11. Larry 02/03/2018 at 10:02 pm - Reply

    Just did this mod… i’ve totally been showing it off. Probably one of the most convenient ever. Also looks great as well.

    • Mike Tseng 02/04/2018 at 5:01 pm - Reply

      yeah man, i wish they would have just done this from the factory!

  12. Eric 02/04/2018 at 11:09 pm - Reply

    Works great, Thanks so much.

  13. Alex Wagner-Jauregg 02/09/2018 at 8:31 am - Reply

    I seen somebody do this switch mod but also wire in the fan power to it. Trying to figure out how to do that.

    • Mike Tseng 02/09/2018 at 9:28 am - Reply

      that’s cool. but the fan already has a button so i’ll leave mine as is

  14. ManCub 03/09/2018 at 5:38 pm - Reply

    How to wire so the LED is always on when a battery is plugged in?

    • Ranudar 10/26/2018 at 11:19 pm - Reply

      To habe the led always on when connected to the battery but the goggles only on when the switch is pressed, you’d have to connect the red wire to C and LED+, the N/O switch with the green wire directly to the fatshark PDB (same place as in instructions above) and LED- to the same place on the PDB as described above.

      So everything would be the same except that the red wire connects both C and LED+ instead of the green wire connecting to N/O and LED+.

      Haven’t tried it myself, just based on the understanding of the switch, so use this at your own discretion.

  15. BSharp 03/31/2018 at 5:59 pm - Reply

    Just did this switch mod on my HD3’s. Couldn’t get a fit with the trinity head tracker so I removed it. Wasn’t using that feature anyways. It would be possible if a smaller switch was used, but this one has all the bling bling.

    Mod works great. Was pretty easy.

  16. Chris 08/22/2018 at 7:54 am - Reply

    Just to be sure this would be the same process for the Fatshark SEs?

    • Mike Tseng 08/22/2018 at 3:04 pm - Reply

      I haven’t done it on the SE so I can’t say. sorry

  17. Brian Miller 06/03/2019 at 11:06 pm - Reply

    Awesome mod! Just received a hand full of switches. Everyone wants a different color. Lol! But the all seem to have similar labeling. For an illuminated switch the center tabs are probably C, NO and NC. The sides are led and my eyes are gettin old i dont see a marking for the led neg -. The tabs you need are C, your common in(from power plug). The NO or normally open (which goes out to board pos+ Pad and bridged with tab led). Finally th unmarked tab across from tab led, which is the neg – for the led and goes to neg pad on board. Lastly the wire gauge. Were not dealing with a service entrance here so a nice flexible 22 or 24 should be fine

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