tiny whoop

Tiny Whoop Build Guide and Review

In Build, Review by Mike Tseng29 Comments

Tiny Whoop Build

Tiny Whoop is about the most fun you can have with your clothes on!

tiny whoopWhat is a Tiny Whoop?  Tiny Whoop is just a Blade Inductrix modified with a small FPV camera and video transmitter.  The great thing about thing about the Tiny Whoop is that it’s tiny, light and protected.  You can fly around your house without worrying about damaging or hurting anything.  Including chasing your dog around, racing your friends in your house or just tuning up your skills.

Things to do with a Tiny Whoop

  • Chase your dog (my favorite)
  • Get a 12 pack, some friends and race around your house.  If you crash, take a shot of beer.  You will crash a lot.
  • Search and destroy your pets.
  • Explore your house.
  • Annoy people
  • Build a tiny racetrack in your house

This is great when you want to fly but the weather is not cooperating.  Rain, snow, hurricane, hot as hell…no problem.  Fly your Tiny Whoop inside your house while sitting on the couch!

Parts Needed to build a Tiny Whoop

Required

  • Blade Inductrix BNF or Inductrix RTF
  • Micro camera and vtx combo (see below)
  • Transmitter
  • If you want to fly FPV you need some goggles or monitor.  (see below)
  • A lot of free time because you’ll never want to stop flying.

Optional

Monitor

If you already have goggles with a 5.8ghz receiver, great!  You’re ready to go.  If you don’t have goggles, a cheaper alternative would be a monitor with an built in receiver.  I have this Eachine 7 inch 5.8g 32CH dual receiver monitors and it works great.

Transmitter

If you are running a Spektrum transmitter all you have to do is bind it to the Tiny Whoop.

If you already have a Taranis you can get the OrangeRX DSMX DSM2 2.4Ghz Transmitter Module that will let you bind to the Inductrix.  If you can’t get the module (they are hard to find right now) you can get the RTF (ready to fly) version of the Inductrix that comes with the controller.

You’ll need a micro camera/vtx combo.  I got the RMRC Cricket because that’s the only one that was in stock at the time.  The Tiny Whoop is so hot right now these parts are hard to come by.  Pretty much any one of these 5.8ghz micro camera/vtx combos will work.  Just make sure it supports a band that your video RX can support.  The Cricket, FX797T and Quanum are pretty much the same camera just rebranded.  They are all 5.8Ghz, 25mw and has 40 channels.  The image quality is surprisingly good for such a tiny camera/vtx package.

Battery

The stock 150 mAh battery will give you around 3 min of fun.  It’s highly recommended to get the bigger 205 mAh 25c 1s batteries.  Lumenier just released their own line of Tiny Whoop batteries.  With these batteries running the stock motors I get between 6-7 min runtime!  They are so cheap I would get at least 4 of them and combine it with a 4 port charger.  I have a E-Flight Celectra 4 port I got a long time ago so I just use that, which works fine.  It charges the 205 mAh in about 10 minutes.  But if I were getting a new charger I would go for the Hitec/RCD X4.  This bad boy lets you select the charge rate and can charge 4 different types of 1s battery connectors.  The Celectra can only charge the E-flite plug batteries.  With 4 205 mAh batteries and a 4 port charger you can fly nearly non stop or until your dog is too tired to run.

Motors

If you want you can upgrade the motors.  I got the upgraded motors but haven’t installed them yet.  I’m having so much fun with the stock setup with the 205 mAh batteries and 6+ minute runtimes.  I’ll replace them once my stock motors give out.

How to build a Tiny Whoop

Building a Tiny Whoop is so easy.  All you have to do is solder on the camera/vtx combo and mount it on the Tiny Whoop.  That’s it!

Cut the power wire on the camera/vtx about 1.5 inch from the PCB.

tiny whoop

Identify the positive and ground leads on the board.  The negative is the one closer to the edge of the corner screw.

tiny whoop

Solder the wires on the positive and negative.

tiny whoop

Mount the camera/vtx on the Inductrix.  The quick way is to use rubber bands to keep the cam/vtx on the board.  I started with that but it always shifted too far back to the point where I saw too much of the props and board.  That covered half the screen and made it hard to fly.  Or it just fell off.  So I designed a custom 7 degree mount that tilts the camera and shifts the camera slightly forward.  It has a tiny hole on the right side to thread the RX antenna and integrated toothpick holder.  This helps protect the VTX antenna when you go upside down. Then I just use double sided to secure it.

Taranis Setup

If you got the RTF version with the controller you are ready to fly.  If you are using the OrangeRX for the Taranis here’s what you do.

Setup a new model as usual.  Turn off the internal RF and change External RF to PPM, CH1-8 AND 22.5ms 300u.

tiny whoop

Scroll to page 7/12 Servos.  Reverse channel 2 and 4.  If not your Tiny Whoop won’t react correctly to your stick controls.

tiny whoop

The Tiny Whoop Inductrix has two modes, angle and rate.  Here’s how you setup your Taranis to change modes.

tiny whoop

tiny whoop

  1. In channel mixer, set channel 6 source SH and set switch as SH(UP)
  2. In the model setup screen check “Extended Limits”
  3. In the servo screen change the upper limit of ch6 to 125 and reverse the direction of ch6
  4. Now when you flip the SH switch, it will toggle the flight modes.  The led will go from blue (stability mode) to red (rate mode).
Bind the Tiny Whoop

To bind the Tiny Whoop to the Taranis:

  1. Plug in the battery on your Tiny Whoop.  Led will flash.
  2. Press and hold the bind button on the OrangeRX while powering on the Taranis.
  3. Taranis will beep after about 5 seconds, wait a few more seconds and the LED on the Tiny whoop will stop flashing and you’ll see a blue solid light.
Time to have fun!

The Tiny Whoop handles surprisingly well for a quad that’s not designed to carry a camera and vtx.  It actually has a very good feel and can turn on a dime.  I guess when the quad only weighs 25g there’s not a lot of inertia to make the quad drift.  This thing is so much fun!

For about $100 bucks you can the the Inductrix and the camera/vtx combo.  What are you waiting for.  Go get your whoop on!

tiny whoop camera mount

If you found this post helpful, it would be super cool if you purchased the components from my store or purchase items from my Amazon links.  These posts are expensive and take a loooong time to make!  The purchases make it possible for me to keep making them.  Thanks in advance, I greatly appreciate it 🙂

 

 

Comments

  1. Nice build as always! Already ordered the 3d printed camera stand, cause i dont stand the idea of using glue or tape!

     
  2. No way you are getting 6 minute flight times with stock motors and the camera

     
    1. Author

      i run the 200mah batteries with stock motors and camera. all 4 of my batteries can do around 6 min

       
  3. Have you had any sway issues where the quad randomly sways and rocks itself to death? I think it has to do with the rotors spinning unequally and then over compensation on behalf of the FC. Otherwise this is seriously one of the most fun quads I own since I’m not worried about crashing hard (could also be the reason I’ve got sway). I’ve also had issues with rotors flying off since there isn’t much anchor.

     
    1. Author

      i haven’t had this issue but one of my reader’s did. the had a bad board. Horizon replaced it for him and it fixed it.

       
  4. Take the case off the camera to help reduce the weight. Use string or rubber band to help hold it on with the dubble sided tape.

     
  5. Are you sure 6min with Cam/VTX ? I just made one today and mine is only 1min… I used Eachine EF-01, might this Cam/VTX absorb too much electric current.

     
    1. Author

      are you using the upgraded motors? what battery are you running? if you run the standard batteries yeah the runtime is under 2 min. i get around 5 min on the 205mah batteries with stock motors

       
  6. I built a tiny whoop with the MMW fast motors, 205 mah battery and Quanum Elite 25mw VTX. My problem is that I am getting less than 30 second flight time. I can take off the VTX and it will fly a long time, never actually timed it though. Everything is new. Had the same problem with the slower MMW motors, so I don’t think it is a motor problem. Ideas?

     
    1. Author

      sounds like something is wrong with your quad. i get 3-4 min on the insane fast motors and 205mah battery

       
    2. Are you absolutely sure that you have a 25mw unit and not a 200mw (or 250mw) unit? Maybe something was mislabled. The 200mw unit uses nearly 1 amp worth of power, which might certainly explain why you’re getting such short flight times. Putting an Eachine TX01 on my inductrix brought flight times down from 7 minutes (200mah 45c Eflite) to about 3 minutes of solid, ‘punchy’ flight times and another minute or two of really struggling to keep her stable and get her back upstairs! But I’d say if it flies fine without vtx, but like crud with, it’s the vtx causing a problem.

       
  7. I just got 2 Eachine cameras for this project, the EF-01 and the MC01. The MC01 has 3 wires that plug in to the camera-red/black/white. Any idea what the white wire is for? Can it just be cut off? Or will this camera not work?
    The EF-01 just has the red/black wires.

     
    1. Banggood forum says it’s a PWM signal to change band and channel from your radio if supported.

       
  8. Thanks for the review. Just wondering if a spektrum die TX will work and you can switch modes with it. Thanks

     
  9. I use the DXE on my OB1 race quad. It will woek on the Inductrix. Get the app for your phone, download the software and you can make changes to the radio if you need to at any point. You can even create new models

     
  10. hey bud, they look like alot of fun for sure, my friend was talking about buying one , he has very little experience flying , seems like it would be a bit much for him , what do you think ?

     
    1. Author

      I’d say go for it. It’s probably one of the cheapest, easiest and safest ways to get into FPV.

       
  11. like several others here with Inductrtix FPV I am only getting about a minute of flight time. Any ideas would be great please. Anyone putting a capacitor on power rail to help with voltage sag?

     
    1. Author

      what are you running? I get around 3-4 min on the upgraded motors and batteries.

       
  12. Hi, i finally got my inductrix RTF, an LHI FX797T camera and 4x 205mA mylipo.de batteries.

    But now i have a question/problem : i have test flown the inductrix with the 150mA battery which came with the quad and everything was stable. Then i’ve mounted the camera on the quad (wires soldered to the battery pads) and tried flying with the 205mA batteries. But now the quad seems to fly stable for a minute and then it tilts to the left and falls to the ground.

    Is the camera draining to much power from the battery, could it be a faulty motor or is it the Fc?
    Currently i’m still using the stock motors

    Best,
    Pierre

     
    1. Author

      adding a camera will not make the quad fall to the ground like that. most likely the motor or main board is bad.

       
    2. While it seems like the stock motors, bad boards (as Mike points out) are prevalent in some of the inductrix quads. I believe you can get them replaced under warranty. Not sure if soldering the camera on the board voids the warranty. If you want something with more control try the beeductrix board. You can run betaflight on it and it generally works better. Nonetheless, know that the stock motors should be able to hold a camera and fly at the least. I’d upgrade your motors as it will be faster and more fun.

      Also a pro tip: get yourself some liquid welder and dab a bit on each joint around the motors (the three prongs that connect the motor housing to the frame). You will be able to crash more with less damage 🙂 #whoop

       
  13. Thank you all for your answers.

    Well i desoldered the camera and now everything is fine again… the quad can hover for 5 min without any problem….

     
  14. Can anyone recommend a different RX module for a taranis other than the OrangeRX? I am unable to find one, and would really like to use my Inductrix Blade

     
    1. I got mine on ebay. I got it at market price. In checking it looks like the price has increased ($59.99) from the $45 I think I paid. I would tell you to grab a bee brain and then you can use it with your taranis. Nonetheless that’s additional cost but $10 cheaper than an orangrx. In my honest opinion the orangerx isn’t all that great. I frequently need to rebind and range is ok. I’ve had a much better experience since I can also tune the controls (whoops are susceptible to drifts on the pitch and roll). The range overall could be improved in both cases since lumenier just released a new 200mw transmitter (and that range will be necessary). Hope this helps and I think there are more options coming. I saw a guy whooping in the mall the other day when I was traveling for work. I gave him props! Good luck.

       
    2. Ha. I just realized how butchered my comment sounds. I meant that the bee brain has tuning capability and works with beta flight making it easy to fix drift. Also lumenier released a 200mw camera; NOT transmitter/rx. Sorry – long day!

       
  15. Just finished assembling a Tiny Whoop yesterday and what an absolute blast this little thing is to fly around the house! I can’t keep my batteries charged fast enough. I’m getting 3-4 minutes good flight. 200mAh 45C Eflite batteries, stock motors (’til like, Weds).

    I used an Eachine TX01 25mw camera. It looks great and the picture around a 1500ft/sq 2 story house is usually totally clear coming to a RC305 receiver and viewed through a pair of totally hacked up ‘personal cinema’ glasses.

     

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