setup qav210

How to Setup a Lumenier QAV210: Part 2

In Build by FlightClub69 Comments

How to Setup a Lumenier QAV210

In part 1 of the Lumenier QAV210 build series we did most of the physical build of the quad.  Part 2 will be about the programming.  I’ll show you how to set up the Taranis with RSSI from the OSDoge and program all the switches.  Instead of regular CleanFlight we’ll be flashing the Naze32 with BetaFlight.  Then we’ll set up the OSDoge.

Taranis Setup

First thing we need to do is create a new model on the Taranis, assign all the switches and setup RSSI.  Watch the video above on how to do that.

We’ll set up our switches this way:

Channels 1-4 can’t be assigned to switches.  These are reserved for controlling the quad: throttle, aileron, elevator, rudder.

Channel 5 – (AUX1): Flight Modes (angle, horizon and acro)

Channel 6 – (AUX2): Arm/Disarm, Buzzer

Channel 7 – (AUX3): Airmode (optional)

Channel 8 – (AUX4): RSSI

Note: I’m using OpenTX firmware 2.0.7 on my Taranis.  If you are on firmware 2.1.x, to get the RSSI to show up in source (page 5/12 in the Taranis), you’ll need to first bind your d4r-ii then go to page 12/12 and scroll to “Discover New Sensors”.  This will allow RSSI to show up in the source.  (Thanks to one of my readers Richard Lu for this tip!)

To find out what firmware your Taranis is running, turn on the Taranis.  On the first screen push and hold the MENU button.  This will bring you into the Taranis settings menu.  Scroll down to page 4/8 and it will tell you the version right there.

Watch the video on how to bind the d4r-ii to your Taranis.

BetaFlight

This is by no means an in depth setup for BetaFlight (CleanFlight).  It’s a good general setup meant to get you started flying.  Once you learn the basics here you can tweak the settings to your liking.

What is BetaFlight?  It’s basically a tuned version of CleanFlight by BorisB.  I’m too stupid to understand all the tech stuff but I’m smart enough to know that it flies waaaaay better than regular CleanFlight.  Even with the default PIDs it feels like a tuned quad on regular CleanFlight.  Zero oscillations or wobble on the default settings.  Really you could leave the PIDs alone and just turn up the rates to your liking.

Flash BetaFlight

build qav210

  1.  In Chrome, install CleanFlight configurator.
  2. Download and install the correct CP210x USB to UART Bridge VCP driver for your computer system.
  3. Download the HEX code for BetaFlight.  Go here, scroll down to Downloads and find the HEX code for NAZE.hex, click and download.
  4. Open CleanFlight and connect the USB to the Naze32.
  5. Go to “Firmware Flasher” on the left.
  6. Click “Load Firemware [Local}” on the bottom right.
  7. Select the NAZE.hex file you downloaded in step 3.
  8. Click “Flash Firmware”
  9. Done.  Click connect.  Your Naze32 is now running BetaFlight

Common reasons why your Naze32 won’t connect to CleanFlight

  1. The VCP driver wasn’t installed or the wrong version was installed.
  2. The wrong COM port was selected
  3. Something wrong with the USB cable.  A lot of my readers have run into this issue.  I use this AmazonBasics USB to Micro-USB cable and it works fine.
  4. Sometimes I have to open Cleanflight first then plug in the Naze32 before the SiLabs com port will show up.
  5. The USB is connected to the OSDoge instead of the Naze32.  Yes this is a common mistake.
Configuration

build qav210

  1. Motor Stop – for first time fliers I would start with enabling this (green).  This makes the motors not spin when the quad is armed and throttle is at zero.  Mine is disabled because I fly with Airmode.  Airmode is a feature in Betaflight that lets you still have control over your quad when the throttle is at zero.  This lets you do some fun aerobatics with more upside down hang time and still be able to control your quad.  With motor stop enabled, if you put your throttle to zero your motors will cut off and there’s a slight delay before they will spin back up.  Kinda scary if you are upside down.  Play with it and see what you prefer.
  2. I start with max throttle at 2000 and min at 1035.  See video on how to tune this for your quad.
  3. Since the Naze32 is facing the rear (arrow pointing rear), you have to set the YAW adjustment to 180.  Otherwise your quad will flip like crazy when you try to take off.
  4. We are running the D4R-ii in PPM mode so enable this here.
  5. Enable VBAT monitoring.  This is the low voltage threshold per battery cell.  So for a 3s battery to have the buzzer go off at 10.2v set it for 3.4v (3.4 x 3 = 10.2).  For 4s it would go off at 13.6v (3.4 x 4 = 13.6).  You can set this to your preference.
Receiver

build qav210

Change Channel Map to TAER1234 and select the channel you assigned RSSI on your Taranis.  I used channel 8.

Motors

build qav210

**DO THIS WITH THE PROPS OFF**

This is where you calibrate your ESC and make sure the motors are spinning the correct direction.  Don’t be lazy and leave the props on.  Take them off!  You can seriously hurt yourself.

Calibrate the ESCs

  1. Have the Naze32 connected to CleanFlight but battery disconnected.
  2. Enable motor test mode
  3. Move the master slider to the very top
  4. Plug in the battery and you’ll hear a bunch of music
  5. Before the music tones stop, move the master slider all the way down.
  6. After all the beeping tones stop, unplug the battery

When you plug in the battery and move the master slider, all the motors should spin up at the same time

Next test each motor using the individual motor sliders 1-4 to make sure the correct motor spins and in the correct direction according to the diagram on the top left.  If the wrong motor spins up, check the signal lead from the ESC to the Naze32.  If the motor spins the wrong direction, unsolder any two of the three motor wires and flip it.  This will reverse the direction of the motor.

Modes

build-qav210-betaflight-006

To set modes to a switch, click “Add Range” on a mode, select the AUX switch you want to assign it to.  Set the slider to the position (up, middle or down) you want to use to activate that mode.  I have AUX1 assigned to flight modes.  If you don’t set a range for the switch position, that will be for acro. AUX2 is ARM/DISARM and buzzer.  AUX3 is setup for Airmode.

FLIGHT MODES
  • ANGLE: This is a self leveling mode with limits on flight angle.  If you let go of your sticks the quad will level out and you CAN’T do flips or rolls in this mode.
  • HORIZON:  Self leveling but without limits on flight angle.  If you let go of your sticks the quad will self level and you CAN do flips and rolls.
  • RATE/ACRO:  This is a full manual flight mode.  Non-self leveling and your quad will stay in whatever angle you leave it.
PIDs

build qav210

This is the beauty of BetaFlight, PIDs!  I don’t know what kind of magic BorisB did but even at default PIDs the quad flies great.  It’s smooth and easy to control.

These are the starting settings I use.  I just drop the P values a little bit to smooth out the throttle punches.  Generally the more powerful the quad (4s), the lower the P values should be because everything is multiplied.  The default settings have the ROLL, PITCH and YAW rates set at 0.  This is too low.  Start with .20 or .30 and play with the rates until you get a number you like.  The higher the number the more responsive it will be but too high and it will get pretty twitchy.

OSDoge

I won’t get too in depth with the OSDoge setup because I’ve already done two posts on this, Setup the OSDoge and OSDoge with MWOSD 1.5 update.  I’ll focus more on problems connecting to the board.

  1. Download MWOSD 1.5.x   The newest is 1.5.1 but it doesn’t support mac yet so I’m using 1.5.
  2. Update your Java.  I’m using Java 8 update 66
  3. After you update Java go to this page to verify your Java version.  It will ask if you trust this source, click yes, then run.  What this does is it gives Java permission to be used on your computer.
  4. Download the CP210x USB to UART VCP driver for your system if you haven’t already done this for your Naze32.  I’m using the Mac OSX v4
  5. After you download and install everything, restart your computer.
  6. On the OSDoge board, move the switch towards the USB and connect the USB to your computer.  Make sure you plug the USB into your computer with the board connected before moving to the next step.  On mine if I don’t do this it won’t open my correct CP210 port.
  7. Open the MWOSD folder and find the folder MW_OSD_GUI
  8. Open the folder for your system.  I’m using a mac so I’m using the “applications.macosx”.  If you are on a windows machine, open the one for your version of windows, 32 or 64 bit.
  9. Click the “MW_OSD_GUI” icon to open the program.
  10. Once you open the GUI, near the top left you’ll see all your COM ports.  Click the “SLAB_U-BTOUART” port to connect.  (See the MWOSD image below circled in red)

osdoge setupOn step 9, if you get an error saying the the file is damaged and it should be deleted, it’s just a firewall error.  On a mac go to system preferences > security & privacy > general tab > and under “Allow apps downloaded from:” click “Anywhere”.  You’ll only have to do this the first time you open the GUI.  After it opens you can set it back to whatever you want.

Here are common reasons why the OSDoge

  1. VCP driver was not installed or wrong one was installed.
  2. Wrong version of JAVA was installed.
  3. JAVA permission wasn’t granted.
  4. Bad USB cable.
  5. OSDoge board was not connected before the MWOSD GUI was opened

mwosd1.5

 

When you connect, here are the settings you’ll need for RSSI and Voltage monitoring.  In the “Other” box, set the units you want to use and either NTSC or PAL for our European friends.  The other stuff is a matter of preference.

Main Voltage – enable display voltage and set the battery cells and voltage alarm.  Voltage alarm is when the voltage will start flashing.  You can leave voltage adjust alone for now.  We’ll calibrate that later.

RSSI – Enable “Display RSSI” and “Use FC RSSI”, set min to 0 and max to 255.  Set the alarm to whatever percentage you want.  RSSI will flash if it goes below this number.

There’s still hope!
setup qav210

YAW right, PITCH up to get into the OSD menu.

So you’ve checked all these steps and you still can’t get the OSDoge to connect…don’t worry.  You don’t need to.  You can set everything via the OSD and the Taranis.

With the Naze32 disarmed, on the Taranis move the sticks YAW right PITCH up.  This will bring you into the OSD menu.  Use right stick (roll, pitch) to move the cursor and YAW left/right to make changes.  When you are done, scroll down to “SAVE+EXIT”

Here are the settings you need to change to enable RSSI and voltage monitoring.  The rest of the options depends on whatever you want to see in your display.

build qav210

While you are here you can calibrate the battery voltage.  Use a LiPo battery checker and get the voltage of your battery.  Adjust the number circled below until the display voltage matches your battery voltage.

build qav210

Make sure you turn on “DISPLAY MAIN VOLTAGE” and turn off “USE FC”.  The rest of the settings are adjustable.  Change the CELLS to 3 or 4 per your battery, and MAIN VOLTS ALARM is the threshold you want the battery display to start flashing.  I just make this match the setting I used in the Naze32.

setup qav210

Make sure you set the correct signal for your system.  If the FPV camera you are using is NTSC, make sure you set it to NTSC.  If you don’t you won’t get the video in your goggles.

Finished!

Once you’ve verified your motor are spinning the correct direction and on the correct signal wire to the Naze32 you can shrink the heat shrinks on the ESC and arms.

setup qav210

Last step is to connect the FPV camera and VTX.  When you plug in the cables make sure you plug them in according to the label on the OSDoge board.  Grounds are on the inside.

setup qav210

I’ll be using the QAV210 VTX brace I designed.  It braces the SMA connector on the VTX and prevents it from getting ripped off the circuit board.  It makes it easy mount by sliding onto the rear standoffs like the d4r-ii mount.  Just put a zip tie around the antenna.

setup qav210

FailSafe

This is very important.  Failsafe is a receiver feature that tells the quadcopter what to do if it loses the radio signal.  For a racing quadcopter you want set the failsafe to reduce throttle to zero if it looses the tx signal.

I know what you are thinking, why don’t you reduce the throttle to 20% so it will glide safely to the ground?  Here’s why: if your failsafe kicked in, it means you lost control of the quad.  You don’t want the props spinning at all if it “glides” into a group of people.  Keep in mind how sharp the props are.  It’s like a spinning knife weapon.

It would be great if it would just glide to the ground but it hardly ever lands that way.  Try this next time you are flying.  Fly in acro/rate mode, cut the throttle to 20%, let go of your controls and see what the quad does.  I promise you it will not glide safely to the ground.  It will crash in an awkward way with your throttle still at 20%.  You will not only break something but you’ll probably burn up your ESCs and/or motors.

It’s better to have your quad fall to the ground rather than fly into someone with spinning props.

Here’s how you set up failsafe on the FrSky D4R-ii

  1. Power up the quad and TX.
  2. On the TX, move the throttle to zero.
  3. Quickly (less than 1 second) press the F/S button on the D4R-ii.  Done.
  4. Test the failsafe.  Increase the throttle until motors start spinning and leave it there.  Turn off the TX.  The motors should stop spinning.
Conclusion

setup qav210

The Lumenier QAV210 is one of the easiest frames to build.  Having the PDB and ESCs on the same side of the main frame makes soldering a piece of cake.  I must admit, the first QAV210 I built I had some trouble figuring out where to put the VTX and d4r-ii because the frame is so small.  There’s far less room on the QAV210 vs the QAV250.  That’s why I designed the 3D parts.  It makes mounting the VTX and d4r-ii so simple and most importantly so clean 🙂

The built QAV210 above weighs 320g vs 360g on a similarly built QAV250.

It’s pretty freaking tough too.  I’ve flown mine full speed into a tree and all it did was rip the velcro strap and send the battery flying 15 feet away.

I highly recommend this frame for beginners to advanced!

If you found this post helpful, it would be super cool if you purchased the components from my store or purchase items from my Amazon links.  These posts are expensive and take a loooong time to make especially this one!  Some of the segments in the video I had to reshoot 3-4 times because CleanFlight was messing up my screen recording and making the separate audio tracks not sync up.  The purchases make it possible for me to keep making them.  Thanks in advance, I greatly appreciate it 🙂

 

Comments

  1. Gil

    Perfect – just received my kit!!!
    Real pleasure to build with your method, thanks 🙂

     
  2. Mike B

    Hey Mike,
    On the Flash Firmware tab, I noticed you didn’t flip on the option for “Full chip erase” when flashing BetaFlight. I’ve always been told that is something that is important to do when flashing firmware, but I’m not sure how paramount it is. Have you had any problems when flashing the firmware without a full chip erase?

    BTW, best videos around. Thanks for all the help.

     
  3. Joekean Tang

    Hi Mike, hope all is well woth you! Thank you so much for making the 2nd part for the build of the QAV210! You do a great job! There is one issue that i Have right now and is that I Never Got the files when I Purchase the kit from you. Can you please sent me files. Thank you.

     
    1. Author
      FlightClub

      I just realized I never hit send after I wrote your email. I just sent it to you! sorry

       
  4. Greg

    Amazing tutorial. I previously built a qav250 that was a mess as far as the physician set up. It flew fine but I’m not that knowledgable or creative with doing a clean build. I sold it several months ago because I needed extra cash so I have been quad less for a while. I stumbled upon your video and you hooked me. I ordered the 210 kit which shipped yesterday and I can’t wait to copy your clean build. Out of curiosity, what batts are you running on this? I know you mention 3s a couple of times. Also, what props are you using? I’ve never used tri blades but it looks like a lot of people are using them on these 210s now. Thanks for your hard work in putting these things together.

     
    1. Author
      FlightClub

      Hi Greg, I use the Tattu 1550mah 3s 75c. I’d start with 5040’s or 5045 before going to tri-blades. those are for the FPV animals!!

       
  5. Al

    Hi,

    Just wondering what brand of 3d printer you use. Those orange parts look well printed!
    Thanks

    Al

     
  6. Jason Rouse

    Hi Mike,

    Went for my first FPV session today….what a mind blowing experience! I’m completely addicted!! Thanks for the very detailed and compete videos. Without them it would’ve taken me months longer to figure out. Can’t get the buzzer to work yet but will try again tomorrow.
    Cheers.

    Jas.

     
    1. Author
      FlightClub

      Woo hoo! Welcome to FlightClub, haha. It’s insane right? Feels like you’re flying.

      did you set up the low voltage threshold? did you set a position in modes for the buzzer?

       
  7. Terry

    FANTASTIC VIDEO!!!.. Well worth the wait. I have completed the build and went for a very quick test flight as the sun was going down. I am an R/C and FPV noob and I am getting video signal loss for about 1.5 seconds every 10-20 seconds. I have your qav210 kit and my receiver is a FR632 5.8Ghz receiver with a Quantum V2 goggles. I have the proper frequency checked for both receiver and the transmitter. I have even tried switching channels a few times with no change in result.

    Any ideas?

     
    1. Author
      FlightClub

      Glad you got it flying!

      What does your picture look like? Is it really noisy and the picture fades out or is it clear and the video cuts out suddenly?

       
      1. Terry

        The picture loss is very sudden,. When the picture is good… Its solid…. Have tried 3 different frequencies and all has the same result. Is it possibly an issue with my receiver? Are you familiar with that one?

         
        1. Author
          FlightClub

          It could be a bad connection somewhere. I would check all the wires. I’ve never used that VTX but they are all pretty much all the same.

           
  8. mike

    WOW , thanks Mike had to turn the rates down to 1.7 on 4s its a rock ship should have done 3s but with limited resources where i am and bening allready set up on 4s had to go that route. I’m Sure i’ll get used to it but for now h—y s–t!!! THANKS AGAIN MIKE

     
    1. Author
      FlightClub

      Awesome! I’m sure you’ll pick it up fast. Sometimes its easier to fly 4s because it has to power to do anything you want.

       
  9. Jas

    Maybe a silly question Mike but where have you plugged in the buzzer? It seems like it’s hidden on your build. Mine is plugged into the Naze32 buzzer pins but it’s not working.

     
    1. Author
      FlightClub

      it’s plugged in the naze32 buzzer output, ground on the outside pin. yours doesn’t work at all? not even when you first plug in the quad?

       
  10. Matt

    Do you have any suggestions for getting prop nuts on/off? With the motor guards I am having a hard time gripping the motor tight enough to run the locknut down. These videos are awesome and were super easy to follow. Thanks Mike!

     
  11. Matt

    Ah…so that was the little black printed thing in the kit. I got it now. Excellent and thanks!

     
  12. jason.rouse

    Hi Mike, will the TATTU 1550mAh 45C 4S1P Lipo Battery Pack fit on the QAV210?

     
  13. Greg

    Mike, any chance I could buy a 3D printed tilted möbius mount from you for the 210? I didn’t see one in the store. Thanks

     
  14. Mike

    Any one haveing intermittent video problems the transmitter nut is grounding on the carbon fiber frame. Put two spacer nuts on the rear two posts lowering the transmitter or i just wrapped the connecton with electrical tape. I was having thus problem with intermittent video till i saw arch marks on frame. Hope this helps.

     
  15. Zeb

    I spent months trying to find the parts,know how and programs to build a quad without making expensive mistakes. Then I found Flightclub!! Wow.. All in one shop and build. I can’t believe how easy FightClub made it to buy, build and program. Being a huge noob, most people can’t believe I built this supper sweet Quadcopter. Can’t waight to build the 180mm from your shop.
    thank you!!

     
    1. Author
      FlightClub

      Thanks Zeb! That’s why I started this site. When I started it took me forever to figure out how to build and fly.

       
  16. Greg

    Dear Mike, I purchased the QAV210 kit and started the build this weekend. I have followed your videos religiously and I’m having an issue binding the D4R to my Taranis. When I hold down the button on the D4R and plug in the battery, I hear the initial 3 beeps from the D4R and it ends there. The leds don’t light up or anything. I have tried this numerous times with the same result. I have double checked my soldering and made sure I connected all wires correctly and everything physically looks fine. Any idea what the issue could be?

     
  17. Zeb

    Would the tweeker 180 be a good ( sbus ) project? If not what frame would you recommend for the next build using sbus?

     
    1. Author
      FlightClub

      yeah the tweaker would be a great frame to play with. I would get the tweaker FPV addiction version. It can fit normal sized motors like the 2204’s. thanks!

       
  18. Tigger05

    So here is my issue. Currently using Luminier 3s 1300 mah LX batteries with this set up. Followed all of your instructions in the video but about 30 seconds after take off I get a low voltage signal on the OSD. Also my RSSI isn’t working at all. You mentioned an extra step in the setup when using a new Taranis but I don’t remember you going back and covering that step. Did I miss something? Well here is my parts list.
    EMax 2205 2300kv red bottoms
    Naze32 rev6
    DYS MX20
    OSDoge
    Luminier 3s 1300mah LX 60c
    Luminier 650 tvl camera
    Luminier 200mw raceband TX
    FrSky D4R II
    Taranis running latest firmware.

     
    1. Author
      FlightClub

      what’s your low voltage warning set at?

      Theres a part on this post about what you need to do to make RSSI show up in source in the OSDoge part.

       
  19. Ken Dignon

    Thanks. I saw that now after the fact. Should have read the article as well. My faut.

     
  20. Ken Dignon

    Need a möbius mount for this build. Any chance your working on this at all?

     
    1. Author
      FlightClub

      I probably will not. there’s not much room on top for the mobius.

       
  21. Jas

    Hi Mike, how would you suggest mounting and powering a RGB LED board so they are programmable through cleanflight?

     
    1. Author
      FlightClub

      Hi Jason, I got some RGB lights. Just haven’t had time to learn it yet. Sorry I don’t know yet.

       
  22. Greg

    Has anyone come up with a clever alternative way to run the d4r antennas on this? They are so close to the props this way I am chopping my antenna in crashes. I had a crash last week where the prop broke the 3D mount and the plastic tubing but luckily did not cut the antenna. Today I had a light crash where the prop completely cut off one of the d4r antennas. I’m thinking of mounting the d4r mount upside down and using zip ties to the run the antenna down into the antenna tube I mount on the underside of the rear arms. So essentially the antenna will be running the length of the underside of the rear arms. Does anyone see any problem with me doing that? Maybe it will affect range a bit.

     
    1. David

      I modified the build slightly, b/c I was a bloody beginner, wanted to start in angle/horizon mode and the vibrations were a bit too much for the Naze32 rev6. So long story short I, mounted the fc on vibration damping bobbins and put some more rubber spacer in between the frame and the flight-deck. The deck got a little higher. So I pushed the receiver as far up as possible and simply put tape around the the back stand-offs (below the receiver) to keep the receiver-mount there. That gives me enough clearance for the antennas.

       
      1. David

        For other beginners that build their first quadcopter: It flew just fine, but last week I switched to rate-mode and … it’s simply amazing. I can’t imagine to ever go back ;-)!

         
  23. Jonathan Lai

    Thank you for your great effort. I have successfully received your full kit, build and fly the QAV-210 with ease especially for your easy to follow video. Can you do a video on QAV-R racing kit with 4″ version with full kit ASAP? Look forward to your good job.

     
    1. Author
      FlightClub

      I’ll work on the QAV-R video soon. Waiting on some new parts and trying out what works best.

       
  24. Craig Drkae

    Hi Mike,

    I purchased the kit from your store.

    I am having trouble with the ESC calibration and am hoping you can help out. Maybe someone else has seen this as well. Everything else works fine, receiver setup, Taranis setup, since I bought the kit I have the backup files and those all worked just fine. I get to the Motor tab to do the calibration and that seems to fail.

    – With the board connected via USB I see the graph move along at the top of the motor tab.
    – I have the Naze32 board connected in CleanFlight but battery disconnected.
    – I enable motor test mode
    – I move the master slider to the very top. Corresponding 4 motor bars move up.
    – I plug in the battery and hear a bunch of music. The graph on the top Motors page stops moving, like CF disconnected
    – Before the music stops, I move the master slider all the way down. All motor bars (1-4) stay in the same full throttle spot. They do not move.
    – After all the beeping tones stop, I unplug the battery. The motor bars still are in the same full throttle spot. Graph at the top of the Motor screen is still not moving. If I try to move Master it moves but the other bars do not.
    – If I try to move to a different tab I get a Waiting For Data message. If I unplug Naze32 from USB and reconnect with no battery I can reconnect to Naze32 and move between tabs no problem. At this point in Motors the sliders for any motor and the master work fine. If I now connect the battery (test mode selector on) the motor sliders do nothing and master does nothing.

    Additionally if I connect the battery and the Taranis is on and I arm the quad I can move the throttle and the motors will spin up. #1 is behind the rest and they do come on at multiple times. I think its safe to assume the calibration has failed.

    I have tried this on my Mac and my Windows machine so its not that. In all other videos including yours I see the graph always keeps moving along when connecting the battery. Again, mine stops when I connect the battery.

    How can I calibrate the motors at this point?

     
    1. Author
      FlightClub

      that’s strange. you can try to calibrate the esc with the CLI commands (last tab on the bottom). PROPS OFF. connect USB but disconnect battery, type set min_command=2000, hit enter and type save, enter. unplug USB, plug in battery and usb, in cli type set min_command=1000, enter and type save, enter. check to see if they spin up at the same time.

       
      1. drake.craig

        Hi,

        So I tried CLI and still have an issue, they ESCs will not calibrate. I removed the OSD board so I could have just the Naze32 and the ESC signal wires connected. This fixed my Clean Flight connectivity it seems, my graph in Motors continues to move.

        – I have tried single ESC signal wires to Naze32 and cannot calibrate any motor when directly attached to Naze32 on any of the 4 ESC signal connectors soldered on the board.

        – I have inspected the soldering for the ESC signal wires and confirmed the signal wire is properly soldered and a continuity test confirmd that as well. I have also checked continuity from the ESC signal wire soldered on the ESC to the Naze32 board when connected. All check out OK for all ESC. I have also run continuity test for each power wire + and – for each ESC from the XT60 plug to the actual soldered ESC connections and to the PDB. All are good.

        – I have attempted to use BLHeliSuite to connect to the ESCs and see if communication is available. It is unable to retrieve any info about the ESCs at all. It does see somehow 4 ESC but cannot provide details at all. I have confirmed that the DYS XM20A is fully supported at this time and of course that it is running BLHeli Bootloader. I can connect via Naze32 USB but again never get any data back when connected. I am using the SILABS BLHeli Bootloader (Clean Flight) interface from the suite.

        – I have reflashed BetaFlight and attempted calibration both before and after restoring the backup of settings. I have also flashed both Beta Flight 2.6.0 (currently installed) and 2.6.1 with the same result.

        At this point I feel like the Naze32 is bad. When only ESC signal wires with continuity ie a good connection and a USB connector are in play I cannot communicate with any of the 4 ESCs flight battery connected or not. I am currently using a Tattu 1300mAh 75C 3S fully charged battery.

        Oddly I can spin up a motor from time to time but only usually motor 2 even when sliders in CF are moved for 1,2,3,4. That seem pretty bad. What are your thoughts here?

        Craig

         
        1. Ben

          The same thing appears to be happening to me. Did you find a solution?

           
          1. Craig Drake

            Hi Ben,
            I just saw this post. To answer your question no. I never resolved this motor issue. However I found that using the CLI calibration method I was provided by Mike I could fly normally. It is the weirdest thing and even though I can fly just fine I cannot go into CleanFlight and calibrate the ESC. Unlike some others, to do the calibration I have to remove the OSDoge board or it would not connect. I had a crash the other day and was troubleshooting motor 1. Same thing, I have to manually calibrate. Did you find anything out for your situation?

             
  25. Greg

    I’ve seen you mention that you’re working on a qav-r video. I have been loving my qav210 build and am definitely looking forward to your qav-r video. Are you planning on doing a kit for that build as well? If so, I’ll start saving my $!

     
    1. Author
      FlightClub

      hi greg, yes I am working on the QAV-R post/video and kit. I’m researching the best parts to use right now playing with different flight controllers and such. hopefully i can get it done in the next few weeks

       
  26. David

    Hi Mike, all up and running. Quad flies lovely. Just wondered what’s the reason for not enabling one shot in cleanflight? And do I need to modify the fc loop time for the faster ESCs?

    Thanks

     
  27. Nick

    I have followed your build exactly aprt from using EMAX self cooling MT 2204 II (12N14P) motors for some reason all of my motors spin the opposite direction to how they should even though I crossed the wires as you did on 1&4? is this a major issue. Have i screwed something up or do i just re solder the wires and cros 2 & 3 instead. ? Im confused. + one of the motors just clicks instead of spins I guess its faulty :/

     
    1. Author
      FlightClub

      hi nick, EMAX motors have a reverse motor connection so it will be opposite of the diagram. the clicking, I would check to see if any screws are touching the windings

       
  28. Ben

    Hey Mike, I am in the process of setting up my quad and I’m stuck on the calibration of the ESCs/motors. When I click on the motor tab and follow the instructions the motors do not spin when I move the master throttle. I have been able to use the taranis to make the motors spin when the quad wasn’t connected to cleanflight however.

     
    1. Author
      FlightClub

      if you use the motor tab and move the master throttle, your quad can’t be connected to the taranis. turn off your taranis. try that

       
      1. Ben

        I have tried it with the taranis turned off and it’s still the same result. I get the music and everything that makes it sound like its calibrating but then when I reconnect the battery nothing happens and the motors won’t spin

         
  29. David Plourde

    Hi Mike,

    I have your d4r-ii mount on my QAV 210 and have flown for a couple weeks now. However, today I had a pretty good crash my antennae broke (the black plastic piece included in the kit. It looks like you shortened your antennae wire? Do you have any suggestions for trouble shooting/repairing?

     
    1. Author
      FlightClub

      Hi, sorry about the crash. I haven’t shortened my antennas. The ones with the shorter antenna is probably a XSR receiver which has a shorter antenna. You can’t just cut the wire to shorten it. contact me and I’ll get you some extra tubes.

       
  30. Charles

    Hi Mike, Just to say a big thanks with out your videos I would be completely in the dark! Yesterday I managed to complete first build using your guides along with ordering various bits and bobs from yourself! I would just like to say the videos are incredible easy to follow along with the wording bellow its pretty hard to go wrong! I will certainly be ordering more off you in the future for my next projects (Shipping to the UK isn’t crazily price and with full tracking it is perfect considering the distance it travels). The quality of the 3D printed parts are great and I love that you can have a choice of colours, I have all the parts for the 210 not only making its a doddle to mount they also look pretty cool too!

    I was just wondering as I am sat here with my GoPro Hero 4 do you have any tips or tricks for mounting a GoPro (If you had the 3D printed parts in your store it would be a sure fire purchase for me like a GoPro mounting pack would be ideal!)

    I can’t wait to get out flying with friends and the ones who haven’t already asked I almost certainly point them in your direction! I just don’t think there is anything else out there like it!

    Many Thanks
    Charlie

     
    1. Author
      FlightClub

      Hi Charlie,

      Thanks for writing and glad I could help. After I finish my next video I’ll make a GoPro mount.

      thanks!

       
      1. Charlie

        Mike,

        Maybe I spoke to soon! Just a quick question for the FPV cable looms (camera and vtx to the OSDoge board), I don’t have one of the posh crimpy tools so I ‘spliced’ (lets use that word loosely) them to half a 3pin servo cable as you said was an alternative.

        The quad powers up and flies fine no problem at all, but I have just received my FPV goggles and are having a few teething problems with them, I power them up and I can kind of see a picture although it is very noise and not clear at all (would be impossible to fly with).

        Is this due to my home made looms being inadequate connections? (Will making the looms using the crimping tool clean up the picture?)

        I have tried to have look around on the site but can’t really seem to find anything regarding connecting the quad to the goggles / trouble shooting this kind of issue!

        Also somewhere I thought I saw in your shop prefabricated looms for camera & VTX to OSDoge boards is this correct or have I been dreaming this up?

        Thanks again for your help!
        Charlie

         
        1. Author
          FlightClub

          Hi Charlie,

          If you can see a image but it’s really bad, most likely it’s a channel/band mismatch. Make sure you are on the same band as your goggle rx module and on the same channel.

           
  31. Joel Warburton

    Hello Mike – any thoughts on the latest Betaflight 2.8.1 update? I was at 2.6.1 when I did my 210 build – there’s a lot of positive feedback on the latest BF. any thoughts on maintenance videos or update posts on going to the latest BF? What version are you presently running for your 210 – can you share your latest PID /RC / expo etc?

     

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