qav210 build

How to Build a Lumenier QAV210: Part 1

In Build by FlightClub117 Comments

How to build a Lumenier QAV210

It’s time for another build!  This time we’ll be building a Lumenier QAV210.  This frame has been out for a few months now.  At first I wasn’t sure if I was going to get it but so many readers were asking for custom parts and raving about it.  Good thing I listened because this is my new favorite frame!

What makes the QAV210 so great?  If I could sum it up in one word it would be fun!  It’s small but still big enough to use 5″ props.  The small size makes it super nimble with a good power to weight ratio.  I’ve only been flying with a 3s setup and it’s plenty fast for me.  4s on this small frame would be a handful.  Not only is it fun to fly, it’s easy (easier) to build.

I wanted to build some before I make the build guide just to optimize the build process.  So after building about 10 of them, I’ve found this is the easiest and of course cleanest way to build the QAV210.  Let’s get started!

qav210 build listLumenier QAV210 Build List
ESC

DYS XM20A ESC use the Silicon Labs microprocessor chip and runs at a whopping 50MHz (BL20A run at 16MHz) so it allows for faster processing speed.  This means it can use higher KV motors and is kind of like raising the redline in your car.  It can handle higher RPM.  These come pre-flashed with BlHeli 14.3, dampen light and one shot enabled.  So you don’t have to do any programming yourself.  The XM20A come in two versions, V1 and V2.  Both versions are the same except V2 come with pre-soldered motor wires and the V1 do not have the wires.  We’ll be using V1 because we’ll be soldering the motors directly on to the ESC.  This will save us time of removing the motor wires from the ESC.

Motors

I’m using the Cobra 2300kv motors in this build.  For a quad this size 2300kv motors will provide plenty of thrust on 3s.  You can use almost any 2300kv motors like the T-motor 2300kv or the new EMAX RS2205 2300kv.  I was going to use the EMAX but I haven’t gotten them yet.  Anyway, you can’t go wrong with Cobra motors.

Custom 3D Parts
  • Motor Guards – ever since I started using these I have yet to lose a motor.
  • d4r-ii mount – on such a small frame, this is the best solution for mounting the receiver
  • QAV210 Sliders – this the landing gear and a front mini bumper
  • VTX Brace – protect that SMA connector
Other components used
  • Fatshark FPV goggles.  These new Dominator SE come with the 5.8ghz RX module, faceplate with fan to dissipate the fog and built in DVR to record the sweet flights.
  • FrSky Taranis X9D on firmware (2.0.17).  Mine is not the new X9D plus but if you are running the same firmware as mine the programming will be the same.
  • Tattu 3s 1550mah 75c Race battery
  • Battery charger – I use the HiTec X4, it’s basically 4 chargers in one with a built in power supply.  Good if you fly a lot.  It can charge 16 1300mah batteries in about 1 hour.  Or if you don’t need a big beast like the HiTec, I started with this Tenergy Balancing Charger and works fine.  You can use a balance board and charge 3 1300mah batteries at once.
soldering vise

Soldering Vise

Useful tools for the build
  • Weller WESD51 Digital Soldering iron.  Here’s the analog version.  If you’re never soldered before check out this post on how to solder.  It’s not hard and actually pretty fun.
  • Soldering vise – handy device to make soldering easier
  • Here’s my secret weapon to making ultra clean VTX and Camera wire harnesses.  The HT-225D Crimping tool.  Instead trying to splice, solder and cover tiny wires, this little gem makes connecting video transmitter and camera cables so easy.  I would easily pay double the asking price of $23 for this tool.  You will need some 2.54mm Female pin connectors for this.
  • Small tweezers – must have for building quads.  It will save your fingers while soldering and get to hard to reach places.
Miscellaneous Items
Build Kit

I’ve put together a kit with the components and all the miscellaneous parts needed to build this quad.  It will even include the cheat sheet* used in the video along with the Cleanflight backup file, MWOSD backup file and Taranis bin file that already has RSSI and all the switches programmed.  Check out the Lumenier QAV210 Build Kit in the store.

*The cheat sheet is only for people who buy the kit or the frame from the store.

Lumenier QAV210 Build Plan

This will be the build plan for the QAV210.  We’ll be using the DYS XM20A OPTO ESCs.  Notice how the motor wires are connected to the ESCs.  Motors 1,4 will have two wires crossed and motors 2,3 will be a straight connect.  The crossed wires reverses the direction the motors spin.  OPTO means they do not have a built in BEC (battery eliminator circuitry) to provide the 5v needed to power the Naze32.  The OSDoge board will provide power for the Naze32 on the +/- on input 6.  The OSDoge will also provide the on screen display (RSSI, battery voltage, flight time…etc), LC filter for the video transmitter and camera.  The LC filter cleans up the power spikes from power so it’ll give you a clean noise free image in your goggles.  We’ll be using the FrSky D4R-ii running PPM.  PPM allows you to output 8 channels from one wire.  Sounds confusing but I’ll explain what this all means during the build video.

Note: If you are using the EMAX RS2205 2300KV motors, the way they are connected to the ESC are opposite to what’s in the schematic below.  Motors 1, 4 will be straight and motors 2, 3 will be crossed.

 

qav210 schematic

We will be mounting the Naze32 with the arrow pointing to the rear of the quad.  This will allow easy access to the USB port on the left of the quad.  When stacked with the OSDoge, this will make the camera and video transmitter input headers point to the front of the quad.  The USB for the OSDoge will be difficult to reach but after you program the OSDoge you’ll most likely never need to access the USB anyway.  I gave priority to access to the Naze32 USB since it will be needed more.  That’s one crappy thing about the rev6 Naze32 is that the USB doesn’t match the OSDoge board.  With the Naze32 facing the rear, make sure to adjust the YAW correction in Cleanflight to 180.  I’ll show this in part 2.

qav210 build

Mount the PDB (power distribution board).  Use the included 6mm nylon standoffs and a M3x8 screw.  Make sure you do not over tighten the screw.  This will introduce too much vibration to your Naze32 and you will develop a hover drift.  I’ve notice with the newer batches of Naze32 boards I’ve gotten they are much more sensitive to vibrations than previous batches of boards.  I use some blue loctite and lightly tighten the screw.  The key here is to not over-tighten the screws mounting the Naze32.

A good thing about using the XM20A V1 (if you want motor wires get V2) are that it doesn’t come with motor wires pre soldered.  Since the XM20A come pre-flashed with the latest BlHeli firmware, dampened light and OneShot auto detect, there’s no programming needed.  So all you need to do is cut off the heat shrink and remove the signal and ground (yellow and black) wires off.

qav210 build

Measure and cut the power and ground wires on the ESC to prepare them to be soldered to the PDB.  Use the cheat sheet if you are using the kit for the length of wires.  All the PDB does is distribute the positive and negatives to different devices that need power.  Solder the red to positives and black to negatives.

qav210 build

qav210 build

Now we’ll prepare the Naze32.  Solder a 4pin right angle header for the ESC inputs, the buzzer header and a 3 pin servo wire for the receiver.  (these headers are included in the kit).  You can use wire cutters to make these headers with with the 3×6 right angle header that come with all Naze32 with right angle headers.  It may be messy but it works.

qav210 build qav210 build

 

Next get two of the signal wires you took off the ESCs and remove the wires from the plastic housing.  If you don’t have a 4 pin connector (included in the kit), you can take the 3pin connectors and cut 1/3 off it.  Then you’ll have two 2pin connectors.  The color of the wires doesn’t matter as long as you connect the correct ESC to the correct outputs on the Naze32.  See diagram.

qav210 build

Plug the wires into the Naze32 and put the Naze32 on the quad.  Measure out the length of signal wire for ESCs 1-4.  Make sure the correct signal wires are going to the correct ESC.  Cut and solder on to the ESCs.  Use the cheat sheet for the correct length of signal wires.

qav210 build

Now you can slip on the heat shrink for the ESC and if you are using the 3/4″ heat shrink for the arms.  The 3/4″ heat shrink is just to make the build look neater.  Do not shrink them up until after you test the motor directions in part 2 of this build.

qav210 build

qav210 landing gearThe landing gear that comes with the QAV210 are terrible.  They are 10mm standoffs screwed on with a 6mm screw.  You can take these and throw them in the tall grass right now because that’s where they’ll end up.  I designed some 3D printed sliders that are mounted using a M3x10mm screw with a nylon locknut.  You’ll never have to worry about them falling off.

If you using the sliders, now is the time to install them.  They must be installed after you put the heat shrink on the ESC and before you mount the motors.  Once you mount the motors you won’t be able to access the landing gear hole because it’s under the ESC.  Another reason to use the sliders.  If you lose a standoff you’ll have to unmount your motor to get to the landing gear hole.

qav210 build

Now we can install the motors.  I highly recommend using the motor guards.  I haven’t lost a single motor since I started using these on all my quads.  I’ve smashed into trees at full speed with no damage to motors.  Of course the motor guard broke but that’s the point.  They are designed to break so it can save the more expensive parts.  Especially if you are running motors that are sometimes hard to get like these Cobra 2204 2300kv motors.  Your quad could be on the bench for 2 months before you can get replacement motors.

Mount the motors using at least two screws.  The reason for that is if you only use one screw the motor could be crooked when you measure the amount of wire you need to reach the ESC.  When you go and mount the motor you may end up with not enough wire.  Then you’re screwed.

qav210 build

Once you have the motor wires cut to length, tin the wires and ESC pads.  Notice how motor 1,4 have two wires crossed and motors 2,3 are straight across to the ESC (see schematic and image below).

qav210-build-115

After the motors are soldered on, slip the heat shrink over the ESCs but don’t shrink them.  The idea is to prevent the bare ESC from touching the conductive carbon fiber.  You don’t want magic smoke.

Next install the included XT60 battery cable.  The XT60 cable comes pre-tinned but I don’t know why that solder is really hard to melt.  I find it helps if you put your own solder on the cable.  It makes it much easier to solder on to the PDB.  Before you solder it on the PDB make sure you put the little yellow grommet on the cable.  The grommet keeps the XT60 cable in place on the top plate.

If you are using the cheat sheet you can cut and solder the VBAT cable on AUX1 on the PDB.  If you aren’t using the cheat sheet you’ll solder the VBAT after you’ve mounted the OSDoge.  Plug in the VBAT in the board, measure, cut and solder.

qav210 build

I won’t go super in the details on making the OSDoge/Naze32 stack because I’ve done two other posts on it, OSDoge/Naze32 setup and OSDoge MWOSD 1.5 update.

Now solder the 1×6 right angle header on the top facing in and 1×2 right angle headers on the bottom facing in on the OSDoge board.  Put the male/female headers together and put them in the +/- on channel 6, TX/RX and VBAT on the Naze32.  Stack the OSDoge on top of the Naze32 and solder the pins.

qav210 build

 

 

This step is not totally necessary.  When building, flying and crashing racing quads, so many things can go wrong.  I try to eliminate as much room for error as possible.  To put the D4R-II in PPM mode, you need to connect the signal leads on channels 3 and 4.  The RX comes with little black square jumper leads.  These things always come loose and eventually fall off.  To eliminate this problem I just put a solder bridge across 3 and 4.  That way you’ll never have to worry about the jumper.  Also I clip all the pins off the RX that will never be used.  Sometimes the RX will slide forward and the metal pins will touch the Naze32 and cause damage.  Cut them off and eliminate another issue.

qav210 build

 

I’ll be using a custom QAV210 d4r-ii mount for the RX.  Thread the antennas through the tubes.  The mount will slide on the the rear standoffs.

qav210 build

Now we will install the FPV camera and VTX.  Use the two camera plates that came with the QAV210 to mount the cased camera.  Plug in the camera wire and tilt the camera pointing up.  You want to do this because tilting it up will require more wire.  You don’t want to end up with not enough wire to reach the OSDoge.  Measure and cut.  If you aren’t using the crimping tool, you’ll need need to splice the three wires onto a 3wire servo wire to connect to the OSDoge.  Do the same for the VTX.  See video for what wires to use on the Lumenier 600mw VTX.  If you are using the crimping tool, you’ll end up with two super clean FPV cables.

qav210 build

qav210 build

So this concludes part 1 on the build.  Part 1 is all the physical build, part 2 (coming soon) will be flashing the Naze32 with BetaFlight, programming the Taranis with switches and setting up RSSI, binding the D4R-II and setting up the OSDoge.

If you found this post helpful, it would be super cool if you purchased the components from my store or purchase items from my Amazon links.  These posts are expensive and take a loooong time to make so the purchases make it possible for me to keep making them.  Thanks in advance, I greatly appreciate it 🙂

 

Comments

          1. Sam The Unicorn

            Hi, I ordered the build kit from you, and the OSDoge looks different from yours, not sure what to do, please can you advise?

             
          2. Author
            FlightClub

            the one you have is the updated one. everything works the same

             
  1. Mike Reiber

    Nice and clean,this is what i expect when dealing with a pro builder. If i may add one comment, it would be nice in the pictures to designate where motor number #1 is. S–t i might have you build one of these for me, how is First week in Feb looking. Only thing i need to change is the fpv transmitter to the race one you put on the last quad, thanks Mike AMA L819102

     
  2. - DanTheMan -

    Hi, love your video but do you mind including a download for the cheat sheet or is that just for the people that order the kit… thanks for the help.

     
  3. Alex

    Great video tutorial. I just bought the 210 last week from you and I didn’t get the wire lenght chart. Keep up the good work!

     
  4. Jason

    Do you have the kit and other parts needed for build if do what would be the cost

     
  5. Kenneth

    Any issues with placing the receiver and VTx units and antennas so close together? On mine I have the receiver antennas at the extreme front and the VTx antenna sticking out the back as you do. I would like arrange them the way you did, but I’m afraid of getting interference.

     
    1. Author
      FlightClub

      i haven’t had any problems. I’ve gone out 1/4 mile without issue.

       
  6. Joe

    HI Mike, First of all Thank’s for your tutorial videos! So I want to build my first quad… I own a Phantom and an Inspire 1… I want to be able to build my quad so that I can just have fun without been worried that I am going to crash it…. I watched the video on the Lumenier 250 but as you know its hard to find the frame as it is back order ( think it will be available in less than a week). I also enjoyed watching this video as you do a fantastic job explaining and showing how to properly build a quad! Which frame would you recommend me buying? It won’t be my first time flying a drone but I do want to make sure I make the right choice on my first build. I know that you said that this quad is now one of your favorites ones. Can you let us know or make a quick video or description of what is your thought between both Quads. I would gladly take your advice. Cant wait to hear from you so that I can Start building! =) I Posted this comment on Youtube but have yet to hear from you, I haven’t bought my kit yet, I am waiting to see what is your suggestion… Thank you

     
    1. Author
      FlightClub

      Hi Joe, I would recommend the 210. It’s easier to build, faster, more agile, costs less and more fun. BTW I would make more money if I recommended the QAV250.

       
  7. meowmix093284

    Any reason you’re not using the X4R-SB now that Naze32 Rev6 has SBUS out of the box? Much faster than PPM and 16 channels for same cost.

     
    1. Author
      FlightClub

      i’ve got some on the way. Once I figure out how to set it up with RSSI and all that good stuff, I’ll do an update.

       
  8. David

    Another awesome vid bro. Love em. Do you ever run a ground station? Ive been hearing and seeing a lot of them on videos when guys fly thru canyons and a lot of trees. Any chance you could make a vid on how to build one? I see them but they are all terrible and not detailed. Thanks and keep up the great work.

     
    1. Author
      FlightClub

      not yet but I’ll keep that in mind. too many projects going on right now 🙂

       
  9. Joekean Tang

    Hi Mike, any news on the 2nd part of this build? I will be getting my kit very soon and I am sure that it won’t take me long to Build…. Thanks!

     
  10. Will

    Mike, thank you for the great tutorial. My question is, would adding dihedral to the motors be beneficial to this type of build?

     
        1. Author
          FlightClub

          Oh I get it. I think by doing that you’ll be losing power because they will be fighting with each other. The naze32 does a pretty good job at keeping the quad stable. I don’t think you’ll need it.

           
  11. Chris

    Awesome Video! Can’t wait for the second part of this video to come out. I have been following you for a while now and your videos have been a huge help.

    I’m having issues with my motor rotations. I have followed your diagram and directions (ESC 1 & 4) have crossed wires but the motors are spinning CCW, and motors 2 & 3 are spinning CW. LOL! I’m not sure if i have set my yaw incorrectly? It is currently set -180 deg. I have the new naze32 rev6 so right now the arrow is pointing backwards. I just want to double check before resoldering. .

     
    1. Author
      FlightClub

      Hi Chris, thanks for the support!

      That’s weird the motors are backwards. Good thing it’s a easy fix on the QAV210 because the motor wires are easy to get to. Just swap any two of the three motor wires to reverse the direction.

      If the arrow is pointing back, the YAW adjustment should be 180.

       
  12. chasd00

    kind of a weird question but how do you get such good photographs of the parts and things? They’re very nicely done.

     
  13. Jas

    Hi Mike. Love the kit and instructions. Having a blast putting it toghther. Probably a dumb question but do I cut the buzzer off the wires and use them for the vbat? I don’t seem to have a dedicated vbat cable in the kit.
    BTW could be ordering another 2 kits soon for buddies.
    Thanks in advance.

     
  14. Joe

    Hi Mike I had the same question as Jas, ( I did not see the cable for the Vbat on my kit). Can you also let me know what I should do ? thanks

     
    1. Author
      FlightClub

      hey Joe, I couldn’t find your order with your email. send me a note please

       
    1. Author
      FlightClub

      I’m still working on it. Hopefully this week. Sorry these videos take a long time to make 🙁

       
  15. Ben

    Would this build do well with a GoPro for recording purposes or will that throw the weight distribution off?

     
    1. Author
      FlightClub

      yes you can use a gopro on the front. you’ll just have to slide the battery back to even out the weight distribution.

       
  16. Joe

    Hi mike, I am posting this message using the email that I used for the purchase on my kit. I have not been able to finish my kit because I really don’t know which cable should be use for the Vbat cable since it was not included in my kit. Also do you know what is the gage of the cables, I would love to buy some extra cable in the event that I need to replace any of them. Thanks for all your help.

     
    1. Author
      FlightClub

      Joe, I sent you an email earlier. Anyway, use one of the 3wire servo cables and remove one of the wires. Use that for the 2 wire VBAT.

       
  17. tyler

    so i am now up to where you have ended and i still need an adult to finish up this build waiting on part 2! but also i am having a hard time on where i can power my TS832 vx i am using skyzone fpv and the TS832 requires an additional 12v connection to power the board and i think i can connect piggy tailed on the osdoge but i do not know which one to use, can you help me with that?

     
    1. Author
      FlightClub

      you can just get the power off AUX2 on the PDB. The vtx should be able to handle the voltage

       
  18. tyler

    Okay thank you, i was able to just solder the 2 red wires and 2 black wires out of the vtx together and plugged into the osdoge that way it is more of a cleaner power to the vtx rather then straight through the PDB unfiltered.

     
  19. Ken Dignon

    Ok, so I’m like Tyler, just finished everything up till build video #1. Need Build #2 video. Just let me say that without your video I was pretty much semi lost! Great job and can’t wait for you to help out further. You have made sense of so much!

     
  20. Jas

    I’m with you Ken, would be almost impossible for me without Mikes tutorial. Just spent 2 days trying to bind my EU X9D+ with the D4r2. All good now. Ready for Part 2.

     
    1. Author
      FlightClub

      thanks guys! I’m working on part 2. These posts take a lot of prep and planning because there’s multiple cameras involved and separate audio tracks. My brain doesn’t work that fast anymore 🙁

       
  21. Zeb

    Qav210 kit is awesome.. Shipped next day with all the sweet parts included.Cleanest build vids out there,and the details are clear. Looks to me that the D4Rll could fit above the stack 8 mm past the center standoff just behind the camera. I think I’ll get another Rex holder and cut the antenna wire holders off. I’ve gone OCD!!!
    Thank you

     
  22. Zeb

    Wow,I can’t believe how awesome your service is!!! I only offer my options to help the best get better.

     
  23. Terry

    Ordered my qav210 and have built it up to whjere Part 1 ends. Any ETA on part 2? I am stuck with an incomplete build on my desk…lol Keep up the amazing work man !

    PS The 3D Print work is flawless!!

     
    1. Author
      FlightClub

      I’m working tirelessly with burning eyes trying to get part 2 out by Friday. Thanks for hanging in there!

       
      1. Tigger05

        You better finish part 2 or else I’m driving to Texas this weekend and making you finish my build! Joking;)

         
        1. Author
          FlightClub

          eek…i’ll be burning the midnight oil to finish it in time for tomorrow 🙁

           
        2. Mike

          You got them on the hook now! Just charge them a fee and give them an access code to view part two, lol!!!

           
  24. David

    The kit and the build is indeed awesome!
    I received mine and have meanwhile finished the build (there’s not too much left, so I thought I could just do it :)). However I’m having a hard time w/ angle and horizon mode.

    No matter what I do, I have a constant drift. I checked the balance of the quad, mounted the Naze32 on some rubber bobbins (to reduce vibration) flashed latest betaflight and tried multiple PID settings. Has anyone any good idea what else I could try?

    Thanks much,
    David

     
  25. Mike

    David, i’m sure our fearless leader knowes better then me but I would hard mount the Naze to the frame. The accelerometer might tring to compensate for the “jello” movement of the mounts. Then reset the accelerometer in baseflight while the quad is on a level surface. Just my opinion we’ll see what he has to say.

     
  26. David

    Im wanting to run some 1300mah 4s batteries, any recommendation on what the low voltage signal/buzzer should be set at? Thanks

     
    1. Author
      FlightClub

      I like to set mine to 3.4v per cell so for 4s it would be 13.6v for the low voltage threshold

       
  27. ozmodian

    I just finished wiring my motors with 1 and 4 crossed and 2 and 3 straight on and all 4 are spinning in the wrong direction. I am going to swap all the connections but what has changed? Do these ESCs or motors spin CW when direct on instead of CCW?

     
    1. Author
      FlightClub

      hi. Did you have the same side of the ESCs facing up as the video? If they are facing the other way all the motors will be opposite.

       
  28. Andrew Whittle

    I left this comment on the wrong post. I am doing the 250 but since it had these ESCs instead of the ones in the 250 video, I used this diagram (which is the same). On the 250 I used the method in your update video but since these ESCs have motor connections on both sides, I used the downward facing side instead of top. Did that make the difference? Either way, switching all of them has fixed it. Really great kit and thanks for all the support. I am glad I got all the new pieces but it makes following these guides more complicated. Keep up the great work!

     
  29. Ken Dignon

    Im completely lost! Need part 2. When I pug into cleanflight motor calibration doesn’t work at all. Nothing is spinning up. The Taranis is a whole new animal for me! I’m grounded until part 2 comes out and it’s driving me crazy!

     
    1. Author
      FlightClub

      Part 2 will be out tomorrow. I had to reshoot a lot of the segments several times because cleanflight was messing up my screen recording.

       
  30. Jimd

    That 3D printed brace you make for the TX5G6 works great on my QAV210! It allowed me to position the vtx lower – freeing up the holes in the top plate that I originally used to zip tie it to the frame. Now I’m able to route my rx antenna tubes up through those holes, which keeps them firmly in place. No more chopped antenna wires!

    Two suggestions: Please do not cut the logo into the design – this caused it to crack right at that spot. I’ll still order another one, but it would be much stronger if that wasn’t there (maybe just emboss the logo?). Also, could you please make one that fits the TX5GA?

    Thanks!
    Jim

     
    1. Author
      FlightClub

      Hi Jim, thanks for the feedback. I’ll look into beefing up the model today.

      I’ll make one for the TXGA soon.

       
  31. Minh

    Great guide! I’m planning to use your kit for my first quadcopter build. I have some questions before finalizing the purchase:

    1) How can I set this up to fly without FPV goggles?

    2) Will my Hyperion EOS0606iAD(acdc) charger/balancer work with the recommended 3S/4S batteries?

     
    1. Author
      FlightClub

      Hi, yes you can start flying without FPV. All you have to do is skip the camera and vtx installation part. Yes that charger will work fine. thanks!

       
  32. Jeff

    Is it normal for the screws on the camera to be extremely tight? Just trying to mount it on the frame with the included screws had to apply so much force that it completely stripped the head of one of them. Wondering if I should try to find narrower screws if that isn’t supposed to happen.

     
    1. David

      In my build, they were also quite tight, but I think that’s intended. It took me a couple of attempts to make them go in straight.

       
    2. Author
      FlightClub

      the trick is to use the correct phillips head screwdriver size. if it’s too big or too small it’s easy to strip the screw. i use a Wiha 261/PH1 X 60 size and it fits perfect. never had an issue stripping a screw.

       
  33. Rene

    Great write-up! Any issues only running the signal wire from the ESCs to the naze32? Been reading so many conflicting posts regarding wiring the signal wires as well. What are the disadvantages running all three wires (power, ground, signal) from the esc to the naze32? Is only connecting the signal wire mainly for a cleaner build or does it have its pros and cons vs all three wires? Thank you!

     
    1. Author
      FlightClub

      this issue comes up a lot. If you are running the OSDoge and powering the naze, do not hook up the red wires. You’ll fry the naze32.

      I’ve built around 40 quads all with just the signal wire and I’ve never had an issue. I asked AbuseMark (creator of the Naze32), he even said it’s not needed to run the ground.

       
  34. notraps

    Hey There thanks for the build info. I’m curious, is there is a flight control avantage or disadvantage to PPM mode?

     
    1. Author
      FlightClub

      none that i’ve encountered. I guess it depends on what you are comparing it to.

       
  35. Jason Rouse

    I broke off the top of the 12v regulator on my Osdoge…..again. Will this affect the voltage my 4s batts give to the 12v rail? Don’t want to damage my camera and vtx.

     
    1. Author
      FlightClub

      that large round thing is a cap for the input filter. the board will work fine without it. if you see your image quality start to degrade or see lines in your OSD you can order that part online and put it back on. the part is Panasonic EEE-FT1E101AP and can be found on eBay or at electronic suppliers like Mouser / Digikey

       
  36. Davi Brown

    hi mike, what props do I need to use? 5/45 2 blade? ccw or cw?

    thanks

     
    1. Author
      FlightClub

      hi davi, you need both. you need a normal and reverse prop.

       
  37. Davi

    Hi Mike, I’ve managed to screw up the soldiering for the vbat connection on the Osdoge. Is there any other way I can provide power to the Osdoge or will I need another one/not use it?

    Cheers

     
  38. Davi

    Failing that, I’ll probably just leave the OSD for now and use telemetry information instead using SBUS. Is there anything I need to do to use this? I’ve followed the video up to connecting the pins to the vbat on the OSD. So I’m assuming Everything I’ve done till this point can stay. Thanks

     
  39. EJ

    Hi, Before I buy the kit I’ve read that the European Taranis only works with X-series receivers. If I put an X4R-SB on instead is there anything I need to change on the quad and are there different settings on the transmitter? Thanks

     
    1. Author
      FlightClub

      Hi, yes that correct. I’ve got x4r-sb coming today. I can swap out the d4r for the x4r for you. The wiring and cleanflight setup is slightly different but all the RSSI and other OSD goodies still work the same. Email me and I’ll show you how to use the x4r-sb.

       
  40. David

    Mike, I could really do with your help at this time in my build. I killed my OSDoge vbat connections as my soldering skills are rubbish, so unless I can power it another way I’m going to do with out it.
    Also I’m using an XDR-4. Therefore:
    Do I connect power directly to the Naze, from the aux on the pdb to the 5v/grnd inputs on channel one?
    Do I connect the transmitter to 5v/grnd, signal to pin 4 and telemetry to pin 5, bridged with pin 6?
    Set uart2 to serial in cleanflight for telemetry?

    Thanks

     
    1. Author
      FlightClub

      david, hang on one more day. i’ve got a post that will help you tomorrow.

       
  41. David

    OK Mike. Thanks. In the mean time I’ve flashed the Naze and calibrated it. However when I try to calibrate the motors I don’t hear any beeps running through the process only when I plug the battery in (Naze is not connected to the battery). Also blheli says it “cannot connect to esc” even though I can see four of them in the console, by it doesn’t display the model. There were a couple of times two of the motors spun up at the same time when moving just one of the motor sliders in cleanflight? very odd.

     
  42. brian

    Great website, thank you for all the hard work. I am building a qav210. I was hoping somebody could give me a pointer. I have installed all esc, motors, pdb, and fc but when I plug the battery in all the naze led work and so does the led on the esc but the motor do not beep. I can not calibrate via cleanflight (following video on part 2). I checked all connections all good. I have a bec 5v going to postive pin below esc signal wire on fc. Any help would be much appreciated.

     
    1. Author
      FlightClub

      the motors should beep or make some kind of sound even if they are not connected to the fc. check to see if you are getting power to them.

       
      1. brian

        yes the esc are getting power but the motors are not. When I first plugged the naze32 rev6 into my mac the leds dimmed and went out and the mac disabled the usb port due to hight current draw. I can not understand how or if this could damage the escs. I bought new escs and will try them. I hooked one motor to a new esc and a battery and the motors beeped. I am going to go install the new escs now.

         
        1. Author
          FlightClub

          I would check the connection to the Naze32. The lights dimming sounds like the board is fried. How are you powering the naze?

           
          1. brian

            I am powering the board via a 5v bec on my pdb. I unsoldered one esc and hooked it up to a battery, rx, and motor; nothing happened except led on esc lit up. I tried a new esc with same motor and beeping occurred. So I replaced all esc and I am flying. I discharged 5 batteries this morning playing with it. I love betaflight!! Flies great! I just need to figure out how to change the settings to rolls and flips. I also need to work on the beeper. When I flip my assigned switch I am not turning on the buzzer. Great site! I like your 3d printed mounts, when I switch to lumineer vtx I will pick up the mount. Thank you!!

             
          2. Author
            FlightClub

            that’s great! to get tighter rolls and flips just increase your roll and pitch rates. I fly with around .35 on each. have you tried airmode? it’s a lot of fun too

             
  43. Mark Lee

    hi! i’m new to this and looking to build one…may i know if this setup support 4s lipo?

     
    1. Author
      FlightClub

      hi mark, welcome! yes, my qav210 currently runs 4s and it’s faaaast

       
  44. David

    Hi,
    Have been flying w/ this quad now for ~ 2 months. I’m running on 3s but have exchanged the main-plate against a 4mm one.
    So all in all it got quite heavy (560g, 700g w/ the GoPro). Airmode is awesome, but I’m lacking power ;-).
    Can somebody recommend me a good 4s setup (battery + props). Locally I could get the Gensace 4s 1550 45C cheap, but the 75C is way more expensive. Is it worth the money? Which props would be a good fit?

    Thanks,
    David

     
    1. Author
      FlightClub

      I run the Tattu 4s 1550mah 75c with 5045 tri blades on this quad now. The c rating makes a big difference when you are running big power. It’s got a lot more punch.

       
      1. David

        Thanks Mike. I went with the 75C ones and DAL 5045 tri-blade V2. Let’s see how that goes. Do you have any specific break-in procedure for these batteries?

         
  45. Arno Funke

    When building the charpu edition and going with 4s instead of 3s would you still suggest the same motors? In an older post you are suggesting 3 bladed props for the 4s setup. What about 5″x4.5? Thats what was listed in the org. Charpu build.

     
    1. Author
      FlightClub

      I suggest using 2300kv motors on this quad, 3s or 4s. It can handle 2 or 3 blade props also.

       
    2. David

      I recently converted to 4s and went with the DAL Triblade 5045 V2 props. Can absolutely recommend them. They may not be able to beat HQ, but perform well and the price is very compelling.

       
        1. David

          Thinking of moving up to 4s and tri-blades. What differences would I see if I went with 5040 instead of 5045? I’m assuming less thrust but more efficient?

           
          1. Author
            FlightClub

            going from 3s on 5040 to 4s on tri-blades will be a huge jump in power…it will be fun though 🙂

             
  46. Jack Scott

    Thanks for the build videos! QAV210 is my first quad, i have flown 20 battery packs so far! Just a little more practice, before i start racing Thanks Again!

     

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