best race drone

Best Race Drone for FPV Racing : FlightClub Tokio Build

In Build by Mike Tseng73 Comments

Best Race Drone for FPV Racing : FlightClub Tokio X Build
Time to build the best race drone available, the FlightClub Tokio X.

Of all the quads I’ve build, the Tokio is the best race drone I’ve ever built.  When I designed the frame I wanted it to be easy to build and easy to work on in the field.  What makes this frame so good is all the small details that were put into designing the frame.    See the FlightClub Tokio X post for all the features and design log.

Building the Tokio X and Tokio SX will be exactly the same.  The only difference is the motor wires on the SX will be slightly longer due to it being 220mm vs 210mm on the X.  The best race drones for 5″ props are all in the 210 – 220mm range.

best race droneTokio X Build List

Tokio Build kit available also.  Kit includes the Taranis program file, Betaflight backup, cheat sheet and all the misc parts needed for this build.

Injection Molded Canopy

The best race drone is about to get better.  We are in the process of getting the canopy made by injection molding.  The canopy used in this build is the first prototype of the new canopies.  Right now we are including a 3D printed canopy in black.  Once we have the injection molded canopies we will give a free upgrade to everyone that has a 3D printed one to the new injection molded canopy in six possibly seven color options.  Right now the colors will be black, red, blue, orange, purple, maybe white and clear.  Clear will be awesome for customizing.  Put a comment below if you have any thoughts on the colors available.  All you have to do is pay for shipping.  That’s a win-win deal!

LUX v2 Flight Controller

These days the software for flight controllers are so good it really doesn’t matter which board you choose.  I may get some heat for saying this or I’m just not a good enough pilot to notice a significant difference.  I’ve tried KISS, Revolt and LUX v2 on the Tokios and they all fly almost exactly the same.  Once they are tuned you can’t tell the difference in hardware.  The Revolt flew good and felt exactly like the LUX.  When it comes to the install the Revolt was a pain in the butt because it requires 5V and vbat.  So when you are building the best race drone it comes down to choosing a board that’s reliable and easy to install.

I’ve build around 6 Tokios using the LUX v2 and they have all been rock solid.  They all fire up smooth as butter from the very first time.  I’m sure Butter Mount has a lot to do with it.  Butter Mount is a new way of mounting the flight controller that I invented that eliminates vibration issues on the flight controller.  The only LUX that has gone out on me was the one I got stuck in a tree.  I damaged the LUX while repeatedly stabbing it with a fiberglass pole trying to get it out of the tree.  I consider that user error.  I really like the layout on the LUX also.  Once you select the voltage for the RX and connect the power on the bottom, all the other pads you need are on top.  This makes it super easy to setup.

Cicada 35a 4in1 ESC

best race droneI promise, once you learn how to build with a 4in1 ESC you won’t go back to building the traditional way with one ESC on each arm.  There are several advantages to using a 4in1.  The biggest advantage is ease of install.  The traditional way of installing 4 individual ESCs you have to use a PDB and solder 10 power wires (a positive and negative for each of the 4 ESC then a battery cable).  Not to mention the ESCs have to sit in the danger zone on the arms.  I can’t tell you how many ESCs I’ve had to replace due to prop strike.  All these extra wires and ESC placement makes it harder to build clean.

With the Cicada 35A 4in1 you can build super clean and fast.  The only power wire needed is the battery cable.  No need to power each ESC individually because they are all on the same board as the battery cable. This eliminates the need for another board, the PDB.  On the Cicada 35A there is a small positive and negative pad you can use to get battery voltage to any other components.  The Cicada 35A 4in1 come flashed with at least 16.5 BlHeli firmware so they are Dshot600 ready from the start.  Since we are using the LUX v2 it supports pass through.  This allows you to connect to BLHeli from the LUX’s USB to do any ESC flashing or reversing motors.  This is great because you don’t have to worry about which motor wires need to be crossed or now.

Tmotor F40 Pro 2400kv

The Tmotor F40 Pro 2400kv are my favorite motors right now and probably the best race drone motors available right now.  They have proven to be ultra durable, efficient and powerful.  I chose the 2400kv over the 2600kv for the efficency.  The choice of motors should be determined by the type of racing you’re doing.  For normal racing where you are trying to get the most laps possible in a 2 minute race you’ll want a powerful but efficient motor like the Pro 2400kv.  If you make it to the final heads up race where the first person to finish 3 laps wins, you’ll want a super powerful motor like the 2600kv.

FlightClub Graphene Batteries

It doesn’t matter if you have the best race drone or now.  If your batteries can’t meet the demands of your motors you will still lose the race.  If you put cheap gas in your Ferrari you won’t get the most performance out of the machine.  Same thing with batteries.  These graphene packs are by far the best batteries I’ve used.  We’ve run these 4s packs down to 8v before with no puffing or degradation in performance.  The are low profile and lightweight also

Other Recommended Parts
  • Weller Digital Soldering Iron – This soldering iron is my workhorse that I’ve had for at least 15 years.  This is the solder I use.
  • DeWALT Gyroscopic Power screwdriver – I freaking love this tool.  Makes building and changing props a breeze.  It saves time by not needing to change the spin direction.  Simply tilt it the way you want it to spin and the speed increases or decreases by how much you tilt.  Get this nut driver set, it makes changing props super fast.
  • FrSky M9 Taranis Gimbals –  Before I upgraded my gimbals I thought these were just longer lasting gimbals than the stock gimbals.  Boy was I wrong.  These gimbals are so smooth and have a much better feel than the stock gimbals.
  • Soldering Vise – Makes soldering easier
  • Taranis Program File – Take the hassle out of programing your Taranis.  Load this file and everything on the Taranis will be setup already.
  • 12v Pololu – Cleans up the video signal and protects the VTX from voltage spikes.
Lets Start the Best Race Drone Build
best race drone
Best Race Drone Build Summary

Since we are using the Cicada 35A 4 in 1 ESC, it will act as the PDB also.  The small positive and negative pad next to the battery can be used to power the LUX directly and VTX equipment.  The motor wires can be mounted in any way.  It doesn’t matter if they are initially spinning the wrong direction because since we are using the LUX v2 it’s very easy to connect to BLHeli to reverse any motors.

Make note of the side of the Cicada that is facing up.  If you have the battery cable side facing down instead of facing up like in this schematic the ESC signal to LUX signal will not be like in this diagram.  Once again, the signal ground is not needed.  It shares a common ground with the battery ground so trying to connect the signal ground is redundant.

To get the best possible image and protect the VTX from voltage spikes, run the power through a 12v regulator like the Pololu.  The Pololu will power the VTX and the 5v out from the FX799t will power the Arrow V3.  If you want battery voltage to show in your OSD, connect the blue VSEN wire from the Arrow V3 directly to the positive lead of your battery.

Let’s start the Build

Since the Tokio canopy screw mounts on the back, the battery cable needs to be unsoldered and moved about 45 degree to the left.  Make sure the battery plug side is up, otherwise the ESC signal to fc wiring in the schematic won’t work.

Cut the motor wires and wrap the wires in heat shrink.  The motor wires on the rear motors will be slightly shorter than the front motors because the flight controller is mounted slightly back.  Solder the wires inline with the ESC front and back.  Otherwise canopy will not be able to mount.  It doesn’t matter how you solder the motor wires on the ESC.  We can reverse any motors later in BLHeli.

best race drone

best race drone

The best race drones must have a clean image if you want to win.  Prepare the 12v Pololu like this.  The Vin is coming directly from the battery along with the VSEN wire going to the Arrow V3.  This will give you the battery voltage in the OSD.  The Vout goes to the FX799T.  Solder a wire on the battery to power the LUX.

best race drone

best race drone

Jump the 5V on the back of the LUX because we are using the FrSky XSR.

best race drone

Solder the BAT and Ground on the LUX direct to the battery.  Solder the wires on the XSR to the LUX.  Once that’s done you can mount the LUX on the frame and install the ESC signal wires to the LUX.  Refer to the diagram above on how to connect the signals.

best race drone
Taranis Setup

For the sake of keeping this build post shorter, I will only show how to set up how to arm the quad to go fly.  For the full setup you can see my other builds where I show how to set everything up.  Or you can get the full Taranis Program files here.  This will have everything setup for you.

Press Menu and page down to the Mixer page, 6/12.  Highlight CH5, press and hold enter, select edit.  Go down to Source and press enter.  Flip whatever switch you want to assign as your arm switch.  I’m using the SD switch.  It’s easily accessible but not so easy that I’ll accidentally flip it on if I’m bending over to pick up my quad.

Here are my other screens for Telemetry, flight timers, warnings and switches.

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best race dronebest race drone
best race drone
best race drone
BetaFlight Settings

To get the XSR to work on the LUX you must configure the ports like this.  Enable Serial RX on UART4 and SmartPort on Telemetry Output on UART5.  If you don’t see VBAT in your telemetry it’s because Smartport is not enabled.

best race drone

Configurations

The Cicada 35A come flashed with at least 16.5 which are Dshot ready.  To get Dshot all you have to do is select the DSHOT600 protocol.  If this part is not set up correctly your motors won’t arm.

best race drone

I turn off the Accelerometer.  This allows me to arm the quad when the quad is not level.  Handy if you get stuck upside down in a tree 🙂

Turn on TELEMETRY, this will let you monitor the battery and RSSI from your Taranis.

best race drone

Setup the arm switch according to whatever switch you assigned to AUX1 on your Taranis.

best race drone

On the Receiver screen all you have to do is change the channel map to TAER1234 for Taranis.

best race drone

Here are my PIDs for the Tokio X running these components.  Tuned with the GemFan 5152 and a 4s 1500mAh Graphene pack.  The rates can be adjusted to your liking.  Increase the RC Expo if you want a softer, less reactive center stick.  Lower the expo if you want a more linear sensitive center stick.  The best race drones are usually setup with around 500 deg/s roll and pitch.  Mine is set up a bit higher than what’s suggested because I like to fly with a mix of race and freestyle.

best race drone

Since we are using Dshot600, ESC calibration is not needed.  Use this screen to test if you have the correct ESC signals connected on the flight controller and verify all the motors are spinning in the correct direction.  If any of the motors are not spinning in the correct direction use BLheli software to reverse the motor.

best race drone

Since we are using the Lumenier LUX v2 with the 35A Cicada, it supports BLHeli passthrough.  All you have to do is connect the USB on the LUX and use the BLHeli configurator.

BLHeli Configurator
  1. In the Chrome App store, add the BLHeli Configurator to Chrome.  Since you already downloaded the CP210X and VCP drivers for Betaflight you don’t need to do this again.  It should connect as is.
  2. Open the BLHeli configurator and plug in the USB on the LUX and battery to quad.
  3. Click Connect at the top right on the configurator.  Then Read Setup on the bottom right.
  4. Flash the ESC to a different firmware if you’d like.
  5. Select the ESCs that need to be reversed, if any.
  6. When you are done with the settings click Write Setup on the bottom.  You will hear a restart chime, done!

best race drone

Once you have the ESCs setup correctly you can finish building the rest of the quad.  Install the VTX in the canopy.  Watch the video on how to mount the canopy on the frame.

Put the SMA through the hole in the canopy and screw on your antenna and mount the camera.  I’m using the optional flexible TPU mount for the Arrow V3.  The metal mount that comes with the Arrow v3 is too short.  The flexible mount is great because unlike the metal mount you never have to bend it back into place after a crash.  It just flexes and goes back into position.  The mount is thick enough to where there’s no vibration in the video.

best race drone
best race dronebest race dronebest race dronebest race droneTime to Rip!

As you can see this is a very easy quad to build.  Besides the programming the physical build of the Tokio is super easy.  I think that’s one of the things that makes it the best race drone.

Join the FlightClub group in FaceBook.

If you found this post helpful, it would be super cool if you purchased the components from my store or purchase items from my Amazon links.  These posts are expensive and take a loooong time to make so the purchases make it possible for me to keep making them.  Thanks in advance, I greatly appreciate it 🙂

 

Comments

  1. Awesome, very thorough, and a good read! I will now explore your product links!

    BTW: I’m not sure I know who is Mike Tseng? Have you been in any FlightClub vids?

    Peace,
    Jay

     
    1. Author

      thanks! no i haven’t been in the videos. i’m too ugly for the camera, haha

       
  2. PS: Your link for the RaceKraft 5040’s is incorrect. 😉

     
  3. Could we use the method you used with the Pololu circuit without the blue wire soldered on to it coming from the camera?

     
    1. Author

      yes. the blue VSEN wire is for the Arrow V3 so it can monitor the battery voltage in the OSD. the pololu will work fine without it

       
  4. I think the first build you have not installed a buzzer. Is that due to space availability under canopy? Or because the canopy would muffle the sound? Buzzer has saved me a few times when searching for a downed quad, would like to install one if feasible on this build.

     
    1. Author

      I mostly just fly on a racetrack now so I haven’t really needed one. but you can easily add one by soldering one on the LUX and enable it in the modes.

       
  5. Also, will the quad be damaged if it lands with the battery on the bottom?

     
    1. Author

      no. 90% of the most popular frames now have bottom mount batteries. tokio comes with a batter plate to put under the battery

       
  6. Hey Mike! Thanks for explaining everything so nicely! Is there osd in the quad you built in the video or are you just using telemetry?

     
    1. Author

      yes there is OSD from the Arrow V3 camera. Shows flight time and battery voltage. Everything else is from the frsky telemetry, RSSI and audio battery voltage warnings.

       
  7. If I bought the tokio kit, or just the tokio frame, how long would it take to deliver?

     
    1. Author

      hi, they would ship within 24 hours. Deliver depends on shipping address. thanks!

       
  8. Where did you get the bits for your dewalt?? Can’t find that anywhere?? Bought the tool.

     
  9. Will it be possible to add a buzzer and an HD camera to this frame?

     
  10. Hi, I have a glitch in my set up.Everything was going great until I hit “save and reboot” on the configuration page. Now I can’t see the Tokio X orientation changing on the setup page and the calibrate button is no longer highlighted. It appears as if the Lux V2 gyros aren’t sending the movement sensed to Betaflight on the setup screen. I reflashed the board twice and went through the build video over and over but no luck. The quad is working properly in every other sense. I can arm it and it the motors are spinning correctly after using BLheli. It arms and powers up with Aux 1, and I went as far as to hold it and run it with the props on. It reacts to transmitter inputs to yaw, roll and pitch correctly. It tries to regain level if I tilt it. On the motors page the graph is sensing if I wiggle it. The receiver tab shows my stick movements and the quad pictured on that screen rolls and yaws and pitches correctly. But again, if I go to the first setup screen the picture of the quad does not move if I move the quad, and the calibrate button is greyed out… Telemetry appears to be OK and the camera is working properly too with the battery voltage showing in the screen.
    Note that when I first turned it on and and began the setup steps and even after flashing the quad picture moved fine. It only froze up after the configuration page “save and reboot” process.
    I tried both with the Lux V2 bolted in place and loose, no difference. I’m afraid to try and fly it like this but it seems like it would fly fine. I used all the components you used in your build video.
    Thanks for any advice you can give me.

     
    1. Author

      yes i did. if you turn it off you can arm your quad in any angle. useful when you are stuck upside down in a tree 🙂

       
      1. Hey Mike, so I broke my Awesome F200 today. My cheap/temp frame before I get a Tokio SX. Though I need to know if my Asgard AIO will fit. It is 50mm wide and ~50mm long with the lipo tabs off the back. Do you know if it will fit under your canopy?

         
          1. That makes me so sad. This is the only frame I want. But the Asgard v2 is soooo good and I already have it. 🙁 I could cut the sides to make room for the ESC parts of the board to stick out, but I’m concerned whether there will be enough room for the lipo tabs on the back as the rear hold down is right there. Can you do me a favor and tell me how many millimeters of space there is from the center line of the rear standoffs to the rear hold down on the inside?

             
          2. I want to buy one or two of your frames. Please Mike, tell me how many millimeters of space there is from the center line of the rear standoffs to the rear hold down on the inside when the canopy is on…?

             
          3. With all due respect my man, “44×40” is not the info I was looking for. Can’t you look at your CAD and tell me me how many millimeters of space there is from the center line of the rear standoffs to the rear hold down on the inside when the canopy is on? Several AIO’s have this extra length of PCB sticking off the rear of the board for lipo solder pads nowadays. Have you really limited your design this much? Do you think you might release further revisions that make room for the way many AIO’s are going nowadays? Even if the canopy would only be available as a 3D printed piece? (And take away some weight in the center area of the CF base plate? It’s never going to break there even if you do make cutouts, IMO). 😉

             
          4. Author

            it’s not that simple. the canopy floorspace is shared with the camera mount. the camera mount space can vary depending on the camera and lens use

             
          5. Wha…?? I never mentioned anything about the front/in front of the PCB/the camera mount space… I’m talking about the “rear”, the “back”, “behind the rear standoffs”. I am only concerned with the physical space from the rear PCB standoffs to the rear/back hold down/the part of the canopy where there is a screw that holds it down to the base plate. Again: “how many millimeters of (physical) space there is from the center line of the rear standoffs to the rear hold down (on the inside when the canopy is on)”.

             
  11. Tim, Are you saying the Quad picture on the Betaflight setup screen will not move when you move the actual quad if the accelerometer is turned off? Because I did turn it off at that step in the build video.

     
    1. That’s correct. The same issue you are having messed with me also until I figured it out. I think I probably spent half a day trying to figure it out, when there was nothing to figure out. Lol! It was working just fine.

       
  12. Hey Mike, so I broke my Awesome F200 today. My cheap/temp frame before I get a Tokio SX. Though I need to know if my Asgard AIO will fit. It is 50mm wide and ~50mm long with the lipo tabs off the back. Do you know if it will fit under your canopy?

    (You can ignore my first version of this as I made it a “reply” on accident)

     
  13. Hi Mike, Is the build kit available with a Flysky receiver option. The reason i ask is that i currently fly the Turnigy Evolution and dont want to buy a taranis if not needed?

    Thanks

     
    1. Author

      sorry i’ve never used flysky gear so i’m not sure if they work.

       
  14. So Mike, It looks like your soldering station is better than mine. I bought one but it doesn’t seem to get hot enough, or my solder is too demanding. What temperature do you set yours to? I may also try to buy the same solder.

     
    1. Author

      i just leave mine at 850 for everything. i find it easier to have a really hot tip cause you don’t have to apply heat for too long. too much time is what destroys pads

       
      1. What I thought, mine only goes up to 600. It works but not almost instantly like yours.

         
  15. I found a good video explaining the affect of turning off the accelerometer in Betaflight. As Tim said it freezes the quad picture and disables the “Calibrate Accelerometer” setup step. That is what stopped my progress.
    I post it because it also explains another benefit which is a lower load on the CPU even if flying in air/acro mode. I think Mike also has a good point that disabling it may help when finding it or getting it out of a tree. Plus adding a buzzer would be good.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OF4-1-ldRY8
    Now time to button it up and test fly it!

     
  16. My Tokio X flies great! What a rush, this thing is another level for me.

     
  17. I have a tokio x and I ordered a tokio stretched x and it should arrive anytime. I’m gonna run the new hobbywing xrotor 40A 4in 1 esc and I’m hoping the stretched x will give me just a little more room where the lipo comes in so I don’t have to modify the canopy like I had to on the regular x. And I say modify but it was actually carving out a very small amount of the material around the back mounting hole. Which thanks to the way it was designed and the canopies thickness in that area I don’t think what I did will effect that areas strength or durability. Regardless I love the x so why not add the stretched x to the collection. Eric, are you running all the flightclub recommended build parts or did you switch anything up?

     
      1. Cool cool Eric. I can’t keep my tokio in the air with all the new parts coming out. I originally used a 33A cicada 4in 1, then an xrotor 40A 4in 1, now I’m waiting for my xracer quadrant 35A 32bit esc that can build into a 4in 1 to come in the mail, but today I just found and ordered a 35A 32bit traditional 4in 1, and I just noticed T-motors released a 35A 4in 1 but it looks exactly like the spedix 30A 4in 1. So yes what I’m basically saying is I have a problem! Lol! I do love to build just as much as I love to fly. And then I was thinking I could just purchase a tokio for each esc I like and that would solve the entire conflict. But then I would probably have a conflict trying to decide which divorce lawyer I should use. Lol! Hey, Eric what do you think about all the 32bit esc coming out?

         
  18. Hello, I was wondering when the injection molded anopies would come in stock, for the tokio x kit?

     
    1. Author

      the injection canopies are being made right now. we should have them in around 2 weeks.

       
  19. I have been looking at the tokio build kit for the past month, and there used to be an option to add a frsky xsr, but it isn’t there anymore, does this mean it comes with it? Also, could you please list what all is included and what I would need, because on the product page it is very confusing. I’m hoping to order it in the next couple days.

     
    1. Author

      hi, the xsr does not come with the base kit. we left out the xsr because not everyone is using Frsky. along with the base kit, you need to select motors, add vtx and antenna or not and add an rx.

       
  20. Your guy Envyastro suggested Kiss FC with Betaflight FW in his video. I did that and now stuck trying to get the Cicada 4in1 Blheli ESC flashed and two motors reversed. As you know, no passthrough and the suite won’t connect. Any suggestions on how to get around this and get the 4in1 ESC flashed?? Been searching for hours now.

     
    1. Author

      the kiss doesn’t have blheli pass through. to reverse a motor just flip any two of the three motor wires.

       
  21. I’m also looking forward to the new canopies. My printed red one sparkles in the sun which is pretty cool. But my camera lens is rubbing against the sides, so I have to check that it didn’t move out of position before each flight, I just pinch the canopy to open the slot and it goes right back into place. On my early production frame there is only one hole for camera placement which is far enough back that I can see the sides of the slot the lens sits in. But I don’t notice it once I start flying.
    This quad as specified for hardware and setup (PIDS) flies so good. I got a bunch of flights in today, could’t stop! I don’t know if I’ll be flying my Vortex 250 much anymore, LOL. I thought I would really miss the OSD but having the voltage readout is all I need. I can really tell how hard I am pushing my packs and I’m landing with a very accurate amount left in the tank. Plus the Taranis audible warnings are in perfect sync with the visual readout which is way better than on the Vortex where they are not. I am running my collection of 1300-1500 packs. I did get a couple of new 1500 Graphene packs here and they are definitely punchier than my old packs. One thing I need to figure out is the timer display in the camera view. It starts when I plug in and has nothing to do with flight times so it’s kind of useless. I’d like to clean that up.
    I don’t know about 32 bit ESC’s. But I know the Cicada is dead easy to install, small, light, and super responsive. That is definitely one thing everybody at my field noticed right away, how quick the Tokio X accelerates, but eh, we are not really racing, just goofing around. I fly freestyle most of the time, too lazy to set up the gates, LOL. Everybody comments on how clean the build is too. Pretty sweet Mike 😉

     
    1. Author

      hey eric thanks for the review! of all the quads i’ve flow the tokio is still my favorite. It handles so well and it’s much more fun to know when you crash you’re not looking at a hefty repair bill. thanks!

       
  22. Will the shipping for a tpu cover be more than $5 and do you know of any good fpv google under $200?

     
  23. Mike, Great frame kit! My QAV210 front arm broke, had to move motors, escs, fc to the toko frame, it’s a little different having the battery weight on the belly vs the back. same electrical setup seems twice as fast!

     
  24. Mike can you let us know before you ship the new bodies? I’m hoping to squeeze an additional body in the box and save on shipping 😛 I want to try a GoPro body…

     
    1. Author

      yes sir! they canopies are in production right now with estimated completion date of 8/1. i will let everyone know when i get them

       
  25. Would I want to use the new Cicada AIO F4 30A ESC instead of the one listed in this build? Recommend? Worth the extra cost? Would that change any of the setup procedure?

     
    1. Author

      the Cicada AIO 30A f4 will not work in the Tokio cause the power tab that sticks out the side. if you want a AIO wait till later today. I’ve got a build video using the EMAX AIO Magnum tower. it’s ridiculously easy to build

       
  26. No matter what I do, I cannot get any accurate Vbat telemetry. I can find Vfas but it seems off. I can find A4 which is correct on startup but it doesn’t update until I disconnect battery and re-connect it again. The only thing I can think of is I should have flashed the xsr right when I got it… but I really don’t want to un-solder then connect new wires just to flash it with the FrSky version 170606 (time of writing this) and then rebuild my tokio… Apart from that the Frame is AWESOME!

     
  27. Where do you get the thin clear plastic heat shrink wrap used for wrapping PCB’s like the 12v Pololu? Back when I raced RC cars we could buy it for wrapping individual NiCd battery cells and assembled packs but I can’t find it or don’t know what to call it anymore. I hate wrapping PCB’s in heavy thick black heat shrink tubing which is all I can find. Thanks.

     
  28. So are you still using the emax magnum? Is it still holding up well?

     
    1. Author

      No I’m still using my stack with LUX and cicada. That’s my go to setup

       
  29. Are you using any other props other than what you have listed in the build? I am using your PID setup as well. Love it. Just wanna to know if there are other prop options and still having great control.

     
    1. Author

      I’m currently using the new GemFan WinDancers 5042. They fly very similar to the rk 5040 but they are much more durable. I’ll have them in the store next week.

       
  30. Is there a reason you used the Sunnysky ESC instead of the DYS 4-in-1? The DYS has 5v/12v outputs and doesn’t require a pololu.

     

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